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Something else I have done is to slip a length of half inch pipe insulation onto the top of the fairing between the fairing and the tank on both sides. It doesn't help cool down the tank but it does keep some of the hot air off of the rider.

The instructions for the Cromeit heat fix that LauraM placed on Facebook can be found here: FJR1300 first Gen heat fix You have to be a Facebook user and you have to join the FJR1300 Enthusiasts page in order to see it.

The heat shield is spelled "Cromeit". I googled it and found a lot of references to it, but the instructions seem to be lost in the internet ether. The instructions included a template that you could print and use to mark the sheet metal for cutting, so perhaps someone still has a printout of...

Some people have noticed a wobble at speed when using a tail trunk, especially a big one or heavily loaded one. In your case I would think it is more likely the tire you have chosen. Although your FJR will not perform like a full out sport bike, it will hold it's own on the street with tires...

Motor oil. fork oil, coolant, or brake fluid?

Well, since the oil you are using is motorcycle specific, and the hydraulic clutch system seems OK, then you are going to have to remove the clutch and see what the components look like. If they are worn then replacement is the only option. If they look good then a clean and soak may solve the...

C&C has the answer. Car oils have additives which do not play well with the wet clutch in your motorcycle. If you drain out the Mobil 1 and switch in something more motorcycle friendly you should see a difference, but it may take more than one change of oil. Personally, I have always used...

 It is very difficult for us to diagnose a problem remotely unless someone has actually experienced it and solved it in the past, so we are just guessing, but I agree with Pants that I don't think you have ruled out a tank venting issue thoroughly. Have you read up on how the charcoal canister...

I think you want to open the one that goes from the tank to the charcoal canister so the tank can breathe with the canister out of the loop. 

Nice. A little sticky gasket spray on one side of the gasket would hold it in place next time. Something like this from Permatex or this from Loc-Tite.

I believe that the CCT will come all the way out even if fully extended, but even if it doesn't, by removing the mounting bolts it should loosen enough to take tension off of the cam chain.

Others have reported this in the past. It has always surprised them that the first, or second, or third time bleeding the system did not fix the problem; however, eventually a thorough repeated bleeding has fixed it.

I agree with Carver. I don't think a small amount of dirty air is going to make a noticeable difference in the engine unless there were some very dusty conditions or sand flying. Back to the disappearing oil, I would expect that a large amount of oil leaking out the back of the engine would...

I understand that it is not worth fixing if it is worn engine parts. I do not intend to tear into my engine. I do intend to keep riding it. I don't ride often enough these days to justify a new motorcycle. I carry a quart of oil when I'm on long rides so I can top it off as needed.

How many miles on the bike and how hard do you ride it? If it is leaking almost a quart in 3500 miles you should see at a minimum oil stains under the bike, and likely a puddle, when parked. If that much were coming out of one place when riding there should be quite a lot of oil splashed around...

Since you are concerned about the changing temperature, a new thermostat is a good idea. Make sure the thermostat comes with the gasket, otherwise you may need to order the gasket separately. If you think the pitting in the housing is a problem, then a very light film of silicon might be a good...

It is interesting that a vehicle has a limited life regardless of condition in Singapore. Does the lifespan vary by vehicle or do they all expire after the same number of years? Also, this thread made me realize how old my '05 is.

RTV will be somewhat elastic and allow you to remove the cover and clean up the adhesive if you ever need to do that. Something like JB Weld will be more permanent.

A thousand miles won't make much difference unless it is a series of short trips. However, since you don't know how long the bike sat unused before you bought it, it would be a good idea to change the fluids now. You can then run the new oil an extra thousand if you want to match up with a schedule.

What year FJR? How old is the battery?