05 headlight problems?

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vic ray

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I had the left side low beam headlight burn out a couple of weeks ago. I replaced the bulb and two weeks later the right side low beam was burned out with the left side looking like it was getting super hot. I took it to a friend of mines shop and replaced both bulbs. By the time I got home the right side low beam was burned out. We checked voltage to both headlights and everything looked o.k.

Could someone please tell me what the problem might be? Surely riding a few wheelies wouldn't cause the bulbs to blow would it? Is their a headlight relay that might be causing the headlight to blow. Any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated. I also have the y.e.s. extended warranty. Should I just take it to a dealer and let them try to find the problem. I would think the Y.E.S. warranty would cover this wouldn't it?

 
I know by experience on a Goldwing, when one bulb goes out, if it's not replaced right away, the other goes out in shortly

I've been told when one goes out, the amperage from that one is routed into the other which heats it up beyond normal and rapidly deteriate the filament until it goes.

Many GW'ers change both bulbs at the same time.

just my 1.5 cents

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 
I know by experience on a Goldwing, when one bulb goes out, if it's not replaced right away, the other goes out in shortly
I've been told when one goes out, the amperage from that one is routed into the other which heats it up beyond normal and rapidly deteriate the filament until it goes.

Many GW'ers change both bulbs at the same time.

just my 1.5 cents

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'
 
If you are replacing with those Piece of Shit Silver Stars, that's your answer. I blew headlights every month for a year before I figured out it was the Silver Stars.

 
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If you are replacing with those Piece of Shit Silver Stars, that's your answer. I blew headlights every month for a year before I figured out it was the Silver Stars.
what headlights do you use now. I don't want to keep replacing these things. We did check the voltage to them and everything looked fine.

 
If you are replacing with those Piece of Shit Silver Stars, that's your answer. I blew headlights every month for a year before I figured out it was the Silver Stars.
what headlights do you use now. I don't want to keep replacing these things. We did check the voltage to them and everything looked fine.
********************************

Can't remember the brand, but I got them from this guy >> Murph's Kits

 
Any bulb that is the same type as OEM but claims to be brighter than the stock bulb will always burn out sooner. The brighter the aftermarket bulb, the shorter the life.

The statement about the Goldwing second headlight burning out because the first one went bad would seem to be BS unless there is something else going on in the lighting system that this non Goldwinger doesn't know about.

The headlight relay can't cause the headlight to burn out, with one exception to be discussed later.

The most important piece of information is that the voltage is normal. (Under 14.6 volts, right?) If this is true, then you will need to be looking at the items that follow.

The remaining reasons that can cause a headlight to burn out early are excess heat, vibration and power switching.

* Heat would be caused by a non-stock bulb or modification to the stock headlight bucket.

* Vibration can indeed be wheelies, as well as super rough road surface or dirt roads. The prospect that this is related to the early burn-out is remote.

* The other thing that can get to a bulb quickly is power switching. One of the toughest things a bulb has to deal with is power being turned off and on. DOT approved headlight modulators have very specific rates that they can cycle, and a very specific power level that they can not drop below when the modulator reduces power. This is done to prevent thermal expansion/contraction damage to the filament. If the modulator were to turn the bulb fully 100% OFF and 100% ON the bulb will die very fast. This is the background leading back to the headlight relay. If you have an intermittent electrical problem with the wiring harness, headlight socket or headlight relay that lets the bulbs flicker, it will kill the bulbs PDQ. Right now, based on the given information and your rapid bulb failure occurring to stock bulbs, I think that you should be looking into an intermittent electrical problem that is causing the bulbs to flicker. Disclaimer: Remote troubleshooting can only be as good as the information supplied.

Edited to add: It is very normal for the R & L low beams to burn out at almost the same time. It is not normal for them to burn out again in a couple of weeks. Some people will change one of the two replacement bulbs ~ 6 months later even though it is still good, so that when one bulb dies a natural death, the other bulb will still have 6 months to go and not leave you in the dark, late at night, far from home.

After re-reading your initial post, perhaps you are simply a victim of 'just one of those things', a one time coincidence that will never happen again.

 
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Ionbeam, thanks for the info. I have been fighting what seems like an excessive number of HIGH beam burnouts for about the last year. (I run wil High beams on during daylight hours always). I have one to replace right now.

 
Funny, just got back from 1,500 miles in Idaho and Oregon and...high beams are gone. Guess it's time for bulbs. Seven years and 54,000 miles...these things just don't last.

 
I know by experience on a Goldwing, when one bulb goes out, if it's not replaced right away, the other goes out in shortly
I've been told when one goes out, the amperage from that one is routed into the other which heats it up beyond normal and rapidly deteriate the filament until it goes.
Like ionbeam so poetically alluded to, that's not been my experience. I only replace the bulb that burns out. The other can and has lasted thousands of miles longer than the first. And I currently have about 3,000 miles with my right headlight out, and my left still going strong.

 
Ionbeam, thanks for the info. I have been fighting what seems like an excessive number of HIGH beam burnouts for about the last year. (I run wil High beams on during daylight hours always). I have one to replace right now.
High beams consume more power and run hotter than low beams. As a result they will not last as long as when running the low beams all the time.

With a headlight modulator the high beams cycle (without the thermal shock, as was described earlier) and will last a LOT longer than even running low beams.

Some people don't like modulators, I am not among them - and I have the added benefit of lower overall power consumption and reduced bulb burnout rates.

 
I know by experience on a Goldwing, when one bulb goes out, if it's not replaced right away, the other goes out in shortly
I've been told when one goes out, the amperage from that one is routed into the other which heats it up beyond normal and rapidly deteriate the filament until it goes.
Like ionbeam so poetically alluded to, that's not been my experience. I only replace the bulb that burns out. The other can and has lasted thousands of miles longer than the first. And I currently have about 3,000 miles with my right headlight out, and my left still going strong.
Yet on a trip to slay a dragon, I lost one low beam, and 5 engine starts later, I was completely lightless, which is the more common scenario for the bulbs in these bikes. Could it be the closer one gets to the Triangle, the brighter the beam and the quicker it's lost? :blink: :blink: :blink:

 
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I had the left side low beam headlight burn out a couple of weeks ago. I replaced the bulb and two weeks later the right side low beam was burned out with the left side looking like it was getting super hot. ...We checked voltage to both headlights and everything looked o.k.
Could we know what that voltage number (amount) is...?

The Halogen Cycle:

"...the halogen cycle works best with the bulb and filament at or near specific optimum temperatures." (Voltage = heat -- if the voltage is low...) "the halogen may fail to "clean" the inner surface of the bulb. Or, tungsten halide that results may fail to return tungsten to the filament. Halogen bulbs should work normally at voltages as low as 90 percent of what they were designed for."

Copyright © 1996, 2000, 2005, 2006 Donald L. Klipstein (Jr) ([email protected])

Could someone please tell me what the problem might be? Surely riding a few wheelies wouldn't cause the bulbs to blow would it?

Any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated.
Vibration (jarring) is not good for the bulb's filament -- and there are motorcycle-specific, H-D, reinforced filament bulbs (available).

I also have the y.e.s. extended warranty. Should I just take it to a dealer and let them try to find the problem. I would think the Y.E.S. warranty would cover this wouldn't it?
Maybe?, if the tech can successfully diagnose your problem and prove to MamaYama that something's broken (or, it's a re-occurring problem that MamaYama knows about and there's a tech. bulletin....?)?

You've probably the greatest amount of (willing) technical resources right here on the FJR Forum.... :)

 
Yeah was almost done the vacation ride this year & one low beam went out & the other went out the next day. Luckily we were one day from home & a daylight ride at that. Used the high beams occasionally to make sure folks knew I was there ( sorry folks ). 2005, first time I've had a problem with the bulbs...

 
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