2007 Bogging, Lugging or just plain Bugging

[eeksnake]

I've searched but couldn't find anything in the forum just like what I'm experiencing (close, but my issue doesn't go away after turning the bike off & on.)

The Ride: 2007 FJR1300A, a couple of days over a year old with 27,240 miles on the odometer. I'm the first owner. Maintenance schedule followed. Up until this week, ran fine at all RPMs. I did have a recalled altitude sick ECU but that was replaced last December by the dealer. 25K service done by me a few weeks ago which included changing the plugs. It's been close to 2K miles since then.

Symptoms: Starts up normally. Runs fine for 10-30 minutes. Once I try to quickly accelerate at speed (for example, while passing on the highway), the engine sounds like a diesel and there is minimal to no acceleration. The RPMs remain the same (it doesn't drop nor rise). The behavior continues until I release the throttle. If I drop it down a gear and slowly apply throttle, the behavior doesn't appear. Behavior continues every time I quickly apply throttle (not a "blip") or when pulling away from a stop. Actually, while trying to pull away from a stop, I have to apply heavy throttle/clutch action to keep the bike from stalling.

Things done up to this point with no change in behavior:

- Checked the self diagnostics - No errors reported.

- Increased idle from 1100 RPM to 1300 RPM (indicated by dash tach assuming a 200 RPM delta to actual)

- Checked tank vent. I actually rode with spare key in lid and when the problem appeared, popped the lid open.

- Turn the bike off for 3-30 seconds and turn it back on.

- Checked vent hose - No foreign matter.

- Checked for kinked or pinched fuel lines.

- Checked the plugs - They were a light tan and properly gapped.

- Checked the plug wires - none were loose.

- Checked the rubber caps used for TBS - none loose and no holes detected.

- Performed another TBS @4500 RPMs

One of the things I wanted to check was the ECU Main Harness connector but I can't find it in the vicinity of the triple tree.

Any suggestions welcome and appreciated.

 

[madmike2]

Possibly...TPS. IIRC, that's one of the symptoms.

Here's a link: TPS site:fjrforum.com that might provide the info you need...how to check the readings, etc., but you'll have to wade through them to find it.

I know I've seen the thread, but I don't have it bookmarked and its not in the Bin-O-Facts.

 

[Silent]

+1 check the TPS (Trottle Position Sensor)

 

[eeksnake]

Thanks guys. I'll do some digging and checking with regards to the TPS. I'll report back what I find.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

Yeah, what they said!

 

[eeksnake]

Only you folks on FJRForum can make me laugh while I want to kick the sh!t out of an inanimate object like... My bike!

Did the TPS sensor check Ionbeam suggested here. (Actually looked at that before but didn't have Ionbeam's experience to tell me what to look for). Sensor starts at 17, smoothly increments all the way up to 101 without any dead spots. That's what I said, 101. Both Ionbeam's instructions and my service manual state it should start between 15-17 and end at 100. (Although I'm not really sure if that's an issue.)

Since this test is being done with the bike cold, I'm planning on going out for a ride until I can induce the symptoms again. Once it starts it's imitation of a Mack truck, I'll pull over and check the sensor.

BRB

 

[madmike2]

MAYBE it just needs an adjustment. Wouldn't that be lovely!

Let us know what you find.

 

[Checkswrecks]

+1 on suspecting the TPS.

It's heat-related, so just put it on the center stand an let it idle for a while. No need to ride and possibly get stranded.

 

[eeksnake]

Thanks a bunch guys!!! (Sorry ChecksWrecks, read your post after returning from my test run.)

Came back initially from the run to see if the readings changed after symptoms returned (they didn't - 17 closed/101 open). Started to post and saw MM2's post about adjustment (now why didn't I recognize that the TPS was adjustable from Ionbeam's post?) :fool:

Anyhow, adjusted the TPS to read 15 closed/99 open and rode again.

TADA! That seems to have cleared it up. :yahoo:

I even got a chance to use my high-speed, low-drag TPS adjustment tool...

 

[madmike2]

I LOVE a happy ending!

 

[eeksnake]

Sorry guys, I spoke too soon. While the "bogging" is not as severe or reproducible as before, it still occurs.

Idle set to 1300 on the dash. Diag for TPS shows 15 closed/99 open, evenly incrementing by 1 both up and down the range of motion.

The million dollar (actually $100) question is, can the TPS be "bad" even when the diagnostics indicate that it's "good to go"? Is there something else I should be looking for? I just don't want to throw $$$ at the problem only to find out that it was something stupid simple like using diesel instead of unleaded.

(No, I didn't. I'm just saying... )

Thanks In Advance

 

[Scab]

Could you have dicked-up a plug wire when you changed the plugs, causing a loaded misfire?

(I'm just guessing here. I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV.)

 

[eeksnake]

Thanks for the suggestion Scab.

As soon as I got home from work tonight, I checked for error codes and ran the TPS diagnostic. Although the trip home had lots of hesitation from stops and "bogging" while trying to pass soccer moms, the diagnostic did not detect a problem.

I pulled the plug wires and using my multimeter, checked the ohms. Between 1 & 4 it read 17.64, 2 & 3 read 18.24. Test is supposed to be done at 68 degrees F, but I don't want to wait until the winter (I live in the desert).

All plug caps were securely attached to the plugs (I was able to press #3 down by one "click" of thread when I first checked.) I also did the "check the wires in the dark" test last weekend but didn't see any sparks or discharges.

 

[Ramblin Man]

You need to check your coolant temp sensor and the connections. Also try disconnecting your O2 sensor. I'd go with the water temp sensor as the problem before the O2 sensor but I've cured some strange running with new ones on some older cars.

A bad signal or erratic signal from your water temp sensor can cause all kinds of bad running conditions.

 

[Patrick]

The million dollar (actually $100) question is, can the TPS be "bad" even when the diagnostics indicate that it's "good to go"?

Definitely YESSSS !

Although the diagnostic wasn't showing any problem, my TPS was bad.



You can see the damaged carbon track !

I'm not saying it's YOUR problem, but it is a possibility...

:huh: Won the 100 $ ?...

 

[eeksnake]

Wow!!!

All that damage and it still didn't show a problem in the diagnostics? Scary.

The FJR is my daily ride so I couldn't do a thorough test to the coolant temp sensor last night but I did check its coupler and found a bit of moisture (oil?) on the O-ring. Cleaned it off, applied some dielectric grease and put it all together. No change, behavior still exists.

Tonight I'll play with the O2 sensor.

I'll probably pull the trigger and get a new TPS. Even if it turns out to not be the problem, I'll have a spare.

Regardless of the outcome, I'll keep ya'll posted. I want a conclusion to this thread so the next poor sap that has this issue can find an answer.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

There was a recall or a TSB on '06 and some '07's I believe for the ECM. Could be wrong on the '07. Some called it altitude sickness. Cause lack of power like you described.

 

[eeksnake]

If the ECM is the same as the ECU, I had mine replaced back in December under the Recall Bulletin M07-016. Nary a cough or sputter until recently.

My dealer checked every time I visited to see if my bike fell under the TPS recall and said it didn't. I'll double check that myself.

 

[twistedcricket]

If the ECM is the same as the ECU, I had mine replaced back in December under the Recall Bulletin M07-016. Nary a cough or sputter until recently.
My dealer checked every time I visited to see if my bike fell under the TPS recall and said it didn't. I'll double check that myself.

No TPS recall on the 07A. The ECU is under the seat (If you didn't already know, I didn't see it posted). The only test for that (working or not) is to start the motor. It's possible that the connection is a little "off"; You have to remove the driver's seat and the right side plastic (near airbox) to get to the connection. You could reseat that connection. I don't know that it's the problem, but who knows.

I don't know, so I'll just throw this up there; can the dealer plug something in like an ODB II computer for cars? (reads/clears error codes, engine diags, etc). If it's been to a dealer and they say nothing is wrong, you could take them for their word. Call worldbound4now; I seem to recall that he has a preference for a local Las Vegas dealer...he's not fond of them, but I think he's taken his bike to one???