Barbarian Jumper Mod on 06

[Ari Rankum]

Thanks for posting the details for 2006. My mod took less than 30 minutes, because I had no beer on site and both mits could be applied to the job at hand. For the record, mine was at -10, 8, 8, 11 initially. I went up 7 on each.

I noticed a small improvement in the way the bike responded to throttle inputs. There seemed to be less surging, but there was still surging. In short, the mod seems worthwhile for the time invested, but it's not a panacea. Next up are Grip Puppies, throttle slack removal, and a probable trip to Home Depot for some Romex to be applied to the Fred H. throttle pulley mod.

 

[Mark G]

If the BM works, and/or all the other mods work, all sort of, and the PCIII is not available and expensive and overkill, what about the Techlusion deal? Their propaganda implies you do no remapping, just plug the unit in and ride off, with your herky jerky problems solved. It's two hundred bucks or so.

I dunno nuffink about any of this stuff, but I'd like to have a smooth throttle and less vibration. BM modifications at my age generally involve Metamucil. :blink:

 

[FJR1300]

I was wondering if after making the changes, if I put 23 and 25 back to stock if the changes would still be stored. I only ask because if the bike ever had to go to the shop, I wouldn't want someone accidentally making CO changes while in diag mode.

Yes, the changes will stay even if you remove the jumper... which is what I did.

 

[MrWizard]

More than 90% of all 2006 models have -10,8,8,11, this was recently checked at our local FJR club. Leads me to believe Yamaha 'forgot' to properly setup each bike.

I did the mod with similar results as others, smoother at lower rpm, less vibration, and maybe a tad cooler at lower cruise speeds. :yahoo:

It seems that there is a preponderance of two groups of initial settings (-10,8,8,11) and (5,18,18,21).

With the range available, (-126 to +128) it is apparent that no CO sniffer was used at the Mfg. for individual bikes, that these settings were possibly based on an average arrived at by testing a small base group of bikes and then just entered into the ECU.

Which brings me to my question, would we find a relationship between the Serial Number and setting?

My SN is 0210 with an initial setting of 5,18,18,21. and CA model FJR 1300A.

Anybody in the know on this?

Idle curiosity and too much time.

Rob

 

[temp357]

It seems that there is a preponderance of two groups of initial settings (-10,8,8,11) and (5,18,18,21).

With the range available, (-126 to +128) it is apparent that no CO sniffer was used at the Mfg. for individual bikes, that these settings were possibly based on an average arrived at by testing a small base group of bikes and then just entered into the ECU.

...or that there are two production lines for the engine and the bikes engines are built to pretty tight specs.

 

[Ari Rankum]

More than 90% of all 2006 models have -10,8,8,11, this was recently checked at our local FJR club. Leads me to believe Yamaha 'forgot' to properly setup each bike.

I did the mod with similar results as others, smoother at lower rpm, less vibration, and maybe a tad cooler at lower cruise speeds. :yahoo:

It seems that there is a preponderance of two groups of initial settings (-10,8,8,11) and (5,18,18,21).

With the range available, (-126 to +128) it is apparent that no CO sniffer was used at the Mfg. for individual bikes, that these settings were possibly based on an average arrived at by testing a small base group of bikes and then just entered into the ECU.

Which brings me to my question, would we find a relationship between the Serial Number and setting?

My SN is 0210 with an initial setting of 5,18,18,21. and CA model FJR 1300A.

Anybody in the know on this?

Idle curiosity and too much time.

Rob

You raise an interesting question, or two. First, my bike was a -10, 8, 8, 11 bike. After the mod, throttle response was improved, a small low-rpm drivability improvement was measured, and a perception (or perhaps "test ride effect") of slight horsepower gain was noticed. Nonetheless, my bike still surges, albeit less. I wonder if further increases toward 5, 18, 18, 21 would improve things more. Where did I put my exhaust gas analyzer? Where did I put my dynomometer?

 

[tiiikeri]

Did the same on my EUROPEAN Fjr A 2006.Increased levels +5 each.Less surging at low speeds and pulls stronger.Idle is now very solid.Great mod!

Original settings was:

1.cylinder: -10

2.cylinder: 8

3.cylinder: 8

4.cylinder: 11

 

[airboss]

I wasn't going to do the BM, the bike was running fine with no herky jerky unless I had a moment. Then a ride we had planned was cancelled at the last minute, and well figured I'd try it and see what happened. I added 5, cranked it up seemed to idle better, went back in changed to 7, bike sounds real good at idle, stronger. Took a ride around town(stop & go), and the bike is a lot smoother coming off idle,and feels stronger at lower RPM.

I did notice on a cold start there is a fuel smell at the exhaust as engine comes off high idle, but that goes away as the engine comes up to temparture, and thats not bad, richer = cooler head temps, leaner= hotter.

 

[Jabba]

#1: 5

#2: 18

#3: 18

#4: 21

Not a tough job- had a little issue of getting the white clip to come back out to the locked position- but then it "clicked" and all was well. Seems to run smoother- time will tell. Thanks to the board for putting this mod together~

 

[kindofblue]

Borrec wrote

You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23.

Your last sentence confuses me (I know, I confuse easily). Here's my understanding

1. take the white plug out of 25.

2. Take wire from plug 23 out and put in plug 25.

What next? Do you take the wire that was in 25 and put it 23? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.

(Hoping to get an 06 AE soon) :yahoo:

 

[borrec]

Borrec wrote

You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23.

Your last sentence confuses me (I know, I confuse easily). Here's my understanding

1. take the white plug out of 25.

2. Take wire from plug 23 out and put in plug 25.

What next? Do you take the wire that was in 25 and put it 23? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.

(Hoping to get an 06 AE soon) :yahoo:

When you look at the picture of the connector in the link in the first post (03 mod) you can see the number identification for the pins. When you look at your 06 number 23 will have a wire coming out of it and 25 has a white pin/plug in it. The only change you make on the 06 is to swap the 2. Wire will be in 25 and 23 now has pin/plug after you are done.

 

[kindofblue]

When you look at the picture of the connector in the link in the first post (03 mod) you can see the number identification for the pins. When you look at your 06 number 23 will have a wire coming out of it and 25 has a white pin/plug in it. The only change you make on the 06 is to swap the 2. Wire will be in 25 and 23 now has pin/plug after you are done.

Thanks!

 

[T120TT]

First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

I did the mod but in the process lost the little white plastic pin that came out of 25. As I was trying to put it in 23, it flew out of the end of the needle nose. Zing....and it was gone. Can I plug pin 23 with a tiny dab of silicone seal instead of the elusive {lost} plastic plug? Does pin 23 really need to be plugged at all? Shucky Darn!!!

 

[T120TT]

First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

I did the mod but in the process lost the little white plastic pin that came out of 25. As I was trying to put it in 23, it flew out of the end of the needle nose. Zing....and it was gone. Can I plug pin 23 with a tiny dab of silicone seal instead of the elusive {lost} plastic plug? Does pin 23 really need to be plugged at all? Shucky Darn!!!

I'll answer my own question. I simply dabbed a minute amount of silicone seal on pin 23 and all is well in ECU land. I see no need to ever undo the jump anyway. Bike runs better now.

 

[T120TT]

Borrec wrote

You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23.

Your last sentence confuses me (I know, I confuse easily). Here's my understanding

1. take the white plug out of 25.

2. Take wire from plug 23 out and put in plug 25.

What next? Do you take the wire that was in 25 and put it 23? Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.

(Hoping to get an 06 AE soon) :yahoo:

25 is blocked off with a plastic plug. There is no wire in 25 until you switch it with 23. Then plug 23 with the plug that was in 25. Now, 23 only has a plug in it and no wire. Clear as mud?

5,18,18,21Do I win?

Mine also were 5, 18, 18 and 21. Bumped 'em all 5 points. It's an AE.

 

[NSFJR]

On my Canadian AE, #25, the originaql settings were:

1. minus 5

2. plus 8

3. plus 8

4. plus 11

 

[Splatterdaddy]

Thanks for posting the details for 2006. My mod took less than 30 minutes, because I had no beer on site and both mits could be applied to the job at hand. For the record, mine was at -10, 8, 8, 11 initially. I went up 7 on each.

I'm not sure what "went up 7 on each" means. Does it mean that each piston is now at +7, or does it mean in this case the numbers are now at -3, +15, +15, +18? Call me stupid but searched for a while and couldn't get a clear explanation on this simple matter.

 

[T120TT]

Thanks for posting the details for 2006. My mod took less than 30 minutes, because I had no beer on site and both mits could be applied to the job at hand. For the record, mine was at -10, 8, 8, 11 initially. I went up 7 on each.

I'm not sure what "went up 7 on each" means. Does it mean that each piston is now at +7, or does it mean in this case the numbers are now at -3, +15, +15, +18? Call me stupid but searched for a while and couldn't get a clear explanation on this simple matter.

Yes to your last example.

 

[ponyfool]

I'm not sure what "went up 7 on each" means. Does it mean that each piston is now at +7

No, it means that each cylinder was bumped up 7 points from it's stock reading. If you have a 5 stock reading, bumping it up 7 would take it to a 12. An 11 stock reading would be an 18, etc.....

EDIT: I am not sure why I didn't see T120TT's post before posting mine. Sorry for the redundancy.

 

[Adomo]

First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:

Thanks Borrec!