battery replacement

[blueman]

Read a post recently where someone replaced his battery and now has ereatic ruff idle. Did that with a car once. I pulled the positive first created an arch. Fried the ECM oops! Never did that again. Had to drive the car after every battery replace over 45 for about 10 miles or the idle was ruff. After the 10 mile drive the car idled perfectly. Did this several times over the time I owned the car. Always now to remember to pull the neg first. Is thier anything weird one needs to know when Removing and Replacing the Battery on the FJR. This is for future referance don't need to YET! In Lake Havasu batterys melt from excessive heat and I always replace at least every two years.

 

[odot]

Yeah, me thinks you have to run it awhile and it remaps itself. Not sure though...I just work on airplanes. Cars and bikes are completely different animals. Except harleys....those are more or less easy.

 

[mech 1 twa]

A lot of newer cars have ECUs that need to relearn idle settings. After battery replacement start engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. If you don't it will stall or surge at times. Some ECUs adapt to driver inputs and learn your driving patterns.

Don't know about FJR.

Newer ECUs can be reprogramed with laptops, or dealer hardwear. Bikes are just catching up to AUTO standards. Thanks to EPA. regulations.

 

[blueman]

Do's the FJR have to be ridden a certain amount after new battery install for reprogamming of ECM????????? I guess thats the question.

 

[Toecutter]

I've had my battery disconnected a couple of times and never noticed any wonky effects, other than having to reset the clock.

 

[Constant Mesh]

You could probably use one of these batteries to power your FJR's key-off loads while you swap out your FJR's battery. The FJR's key-off load is less than 2 millamps.

https://data.energizer.com/PDFs/a23.pdf

 

[blueman]

Mr Mesh, question why install that recommended battery for down loads if I am quickly Removing and Replacing new battery. And is thier superior batterys I can install. thanks

 

[Constant Mesh]

You're only going to lose three things with an interruption of power -- the clock setting and the two tripmeter readings. I guess you'd also lose the fuel reserve tripmeter reading if it was in effect. I don't believe there'd be any effect on engine, etc. operation.

I suggested using this small battery so you could retain the above values while you do the battery swap. Although I haven't tried it I suspect that for a brief 5 to 10 second interruption of power the values wouldn't be lost.

I wouldn't expect to see any arcing when you remove the battery cables. Interrupting a 2 milliamp current doesn't offer much of an arc.

 

[3dogs]

The car "idle thing' is called Adaptive Learning and it's been used on some cars/light trucks since around 1986. The ECM not only figures out where the idle rpms are supposed to be but also calculates fuel delivery and stores info on a map that constantly changes as the engine accumulates miles and as components are replaced. 1990, and later Fords and others, had a specific procedure to "re-learn" the ECM after changing EFI components or even spark plugs. In fact if you didn’t go through the procedure the car ran like shit for several hundred miles until enough info was sent to the adaptive map.

The FJR does not use this strategy and you can disconnect the battery and the only consequence is the clock will have to be reset. There is no point in trying to connect another battery to keep the computer’s memory from going dead. Just replace the battery, reset the clock and ride.

 

[blueman]

Thanks for the info. For future referance.

 

[GMAK]

2007 FJRA, ~15K miles, with PCIII installed around

2.5K miles.

I installed a new battery yesterday, and wanted to relate

my experiences. I'm sure many here have changed

their battery before, and will probably find nothing

new here. But, some may find my experiences

interesting.

It didn't seem that there was really anything wrong

with the original battery, a Yuasa YT14B4. It just

seemed a little puny during cold cranking. Kinda'

like it was a slower spin. But, the bike always started

within 4-5 revolutions, and ran smoothly.

After riding, even short distances, when the battery

was warmed up, cranking was faster. I never felt

that I might be left stranded regardless of a cold or

warm battery.

But, it was beginning to get cooler here, and since

the bike has lots of electronics, I thought it would

be wise to do a proactive replace.

The replacement that I got is a Yuasa YT14BBS.

I removed the original battery before checking the

new one for the steps to initialize. I was concerned

to discover I'd have to chemically initialize the new

battery. Meaning the bike would be without power

for a much longer time.

I'd been concerned about the length of time that the

bike would be without power. Mainly because of

the PCIII. I didn't install the PC, and wasn't sure

how it's configuration would be maintained without

power.

However, without power for about an hour, I got

the new battery installed. I did lose my two tripmeter

values, and the current time. but that's all.

So after some other maintenance tasks, I fired up

the bike to verify everything was OK.

WOW! What a difference in starter spin speed a

new battery made. I started the bike several times

to verify consistency.

Since it was raining yesterday, I rode the bike for

some errands today. WOW again! What a huge

difference the new battery install made in the bike's

performance, smoothness, warm-up, everything.

Not only does the bike start much easier, it just

runs much much better. I'm really not sure if it

was the new battery, or an electronic reset during

the battery-less work time.

I guess it's a lot like a worn tire. You just don't

realize how bad it is until it's replaced. Then, you

are amazed at how you were able to continue use

of the old tire.

So in summary, if you have a battery that you suspect

might be a little sluggish, you might gain many valuable

improvements by a replacement. Plus, you'll avoid

a possible stranding that I've never experienced on

an FI bike, but hear that it's no fun.

This subforum placement was chosen based on similar

discussions already present.

Thanks for reading. Sorry for the text length.

 

[RaYzerman19]

There should be only the tiniest of arcs, if any at all during cable disconnect. If it's big, then you left something on that had a significant draw, or you got a short somewhere (that may have been killing your battery). It also shouldn't matter how long the bike is without a battery, killing the clock and trip od's is pretty much instant.

It is however, very important to charge a battery on a very slow charge for a number of hours (overnight is good). Check out the recommendations by the maufacturer, but 1.2 amps is normal, maybe 2 tops. Bike's charging system puts out way too much for a new battery. Properly charged this way, you are ensuring you'll get the most life out of your battery.

 

[wfooshee]

The arc may have been the tool touching metal and directly grounding the positive terminal.

That's why you ALWAYS remove the negative terminal first!!!! If the negative terminal is disconnected you can't short the positive to ground with a tool on the positive terminal.

 

[RichardS]

A slightly dif battery topic, but why did my speedo & tach do their needle sweep to & fro without the battery being connected ?? I don't recall which cable I took off, (the one in front ((positive?)), but it was in my hand and all sorts of wierd things happened. Maybe I was grounded to the ground, but I had rubber soled shoes on.

 

[RadioHowie]

A slightly dif battery topic, but why did my speedo & tach do their needle sweep to & fro without the battery being connected ?? I don't recall which cable I took off, (the one in front ((positive?)), but it was in my hand and all sorts of wierd things happened. Maybe I was grounded to the ground, but I had rubber soled shoes on.

You ride a Gen II.....Gawd KNOWS what could be wrong! :lol: