Grounding Issue Got Me Too

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flapsup

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And away we go!

"3B" (the Big Blue Beeyotch) let me down for the first time this morning, and once again, the forum gurus hit the nail right on the head. The grounding connector under the tank is fried. Sorry, but no pics. Symptoms are completely consistent with what have been previously reported.

She's an '06, 16K on the clock, primarily owner serviced, garage kept, moderately farkled, ridden regularly, battery tender used if she sits more than two weeks. The electrical farkles include motolights, man horns, GPS, radar detector and mix-it amplifier, all run through a blue sea fuse box wired to the battery with a relay activated by a tail light lead. Also added the 16 led flashing brake lights that are connected through the brake and tail lights. Didn't need the ECU recall, but I did have the ignition switch replaced last year.

The break down was typical of what others have described. A couple of weeks ago, after she sat for about three weeks, I tried to crank her up and instead got to see all the dash lights come on, and the turn indicators came on and stayed on and she wouldn't turn over. I thought maybe the battery was way down, so I hooked up the charger and let it charge for about an hour. Came back and she fired right up. Went for a short ride and about 10 minutes into the ride, the electrical system blinked and I lost all power for about a half second. Got back home and checked the battery connections thinking the main ground lead might have gone bad. Tight as a tick and no corrosion. Our January cold snap and my scheduling left her in the shed until this morning.

About 40 degrees when I left the house this morning. A half mile to the stop sign and all is good. Headed down a slight grade, 3rd gear, trailing throttle, 1/4 mile later, and thought I smelled the magic electrical smoke escaping. Downshifted to second for a traffic light, and she died. Dash lights all light up, tach and speedo danced to the pegs and stopped, turn indicator lights came on, so I coasted to a stop on a sidewalk and turned off the key. I'd had the windshield up about halfway and it failed to retract. Sat for about a minute and tried a restart - nothing - dash still all lit up. Waited about 5 minutes, turned on the key, the windshield retracted, the dash lit up, and then all went dark.

So I called the local bike tow guy, and she got a ride to the dealership. Described the problem, and advised the tech about the issues we have been collectively having and where the likely problem was. I did ask if Yammie had a bulletin out on this problem yet and he said they did not. About an hour later the tech called and said they had found the problem exactly where I suggested it would be, that he had called the regional service rep, and the suggested fix was to replace the entire wiring harness. So the question was, "Does Y.E.S. cover this?" And the answer was "Yes, Y.E.S. does cover this, including parts and labor, to the tune of $900 plus." That's the good news.

The bad news is that the only complete wiring harness in the country is somewhere in California and it should be the middle of next week before it gets here.

I will file the report with the NTSB as suggested and I'll keep you posted about "3B's" progress.

 
Replace the whole harness because they can't trust anybody to make a good splice??? Geez. Glad it's covered, though! That certainly made your Y.E.S. worthwhile!!!

You had tried to get up a lunch gathering on MLK day in Vernon. I'm assuming that washed out? I was up for it, but not off work.) Imagine if you'd been on the way to that!

 
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Replace the whole harness because they can't trust anybody to make a good splice??? Geez. Glad it's covered, though! That certainly made your Y.E.S. worthwhile!!!
You had tried to get up a lunch gathering on MLK day in Vernon. I'm assuming that washed out? I was up for it, but not off work.) Imagine if you'd been on the way to that!
The YES absolutely paid for itself this time. I am so glad this happened in town and only a half mile from my house. It would have been a really crappy day if I was out somewhere in Tate's Hell with no cell phone access.

 
Replace the whole harness because they can't trust anybody to make a good splice??? Geez. Glad it's covered, though! That certainly made your Y.E.S. worthwhile!!!
Yessss... except, unless Yamaha have changed the harness to fix the problem, which they might have already done, what will prevent the same thing from happening again? I would much rather permanently fix it myself, than get a duplicate wiring harness that doesn't address the root cause. Even if the new harness permanently fixes the overloading issue, installing it can easily introduce other issues due to all the disassembly required to install a complete wiring harness.

 
Replace the whole harness because they can't trust anybody to make a good splice??? Geez. Glad it's covered, though! That certainly made your Y.E.S. worthwhile!!!
Yessss... except, unless Yamaha have changed the harness to fix the problem, which they might have already done, what will prevent the same thing from happening again? I would much rather permanently fix it myself, than get a duplicate wiring harness that doesn't address the root cause. Even if the new harness permanently fixes the overloading issue, installing it can easily introduce other issues due to all the disassembly required to install a complete wiring harness.
I agree completely. In the mean time, I would tell the dealer to thoroughly grease all spiders with dielectric grease before installing the new harness. It might not be a permanent fix, but at least it'll delay future problems.

 
Replace the whole harness because they can't trust anybody to make a good splice??? Geez. Glad it's covered, though! That certainly made your Y.E.S. worthwhile!!!
Yessss... except, unless Yamaha have changed the harness to fix the problem, which they might have already done, what will prevent the same thing from happening again? I would much rather permanently fix it myself, than get a duplicate wiring harness that doesn't address the root cause. Even if the new harness permanently fixes the overloading issue, installing it can easily introduce other issues due to all the disassembly required to install a complete wiring harness.
I agree completely. In the mean time, I would tell the dealer to thoroughly grease all spiders with dielectric grease before installing the new harness. It might not be a permanent fix, but at least it'll delay future problems.
Just got my 06 AE back from the shop for this same failure. I also have YES, and Yamaha called in the regional rep to authorize a new wiring harness. Found out a few days later that the harness would be on back order, so I asked them to do a splice repair with solder, which the rep authorized. IMHO, as others have also suggested, this is the best way to repair this failure. Replacing the harness is only going to give you a new harness with the same potential failure point. And an even bigger minus to a harness replacement is the very real possibility for some kind new problem being introduced. Just my 2 pennies worth.

 
Replace the whole harness because they can't trust anybody to make a good splice??? Geez. Glad it's covered, though! That certainly made your Y.E.S. worthwhile!!!
Yessss... except, unless Yamaha have changed the harness to fix the problem, which they might have already done, what will prevent the same thing from happening again? I would much rather permanently fix it myself, than get a duplicate wiring harness that doesn't address the root cause. Even if the new harness permanently fixes the overloading issue, installing it can easily introduce other issues due to all the disassembly required to install a complete wiring harness.
I agree completely. In the mean time, I would tell the dealer to thoroughly grease all spiders with dielectric grease before installing the new harness. It might not be a permanent fix, but at least it'll delay future problems.
Just got my 06 AE back from the shop for this same failure. I also have YES, and Yamaha called in the regional rep to authorize a new wiring harness. Found out a few days later that the harness would be on back order, so I asked them to do a splice repair with solder, which the rep authorized. IMHO, as others have also suggested, this is the best way to repair this failure. Replacing the harness is only going to give you a new harness with the same potential failure point. And an even bigger minus to a harness replacement is the very real possibility for some kind new problem being introduced. Just my 2 pennies worth.
I do appreciate that replacing the harness may not address the root problem. And I'm not afraid of doing the splice. However, IMHO, until we all show up at the dealerships with the same problem, there is absolutely no incentive for Mammy Yammy to isolate the problem and properly engineer a fix. While I am concerned with the possibility of a rewire creating new problems, I will give the company a chance or two to get it right. I am patient and understanding, but I am also persistent and will accept nothing less than good work.

 
:yahoo: I got 3B out of the shop Saturday afternoon! I stopped by about 3:00 pm to see if my new wiring harness had arrived and they told me she was ready to go except for a test ride. Boy, was I surprised! I really didn't expect to get her back until at least the middle or end of this week! Timing being what it was, they still had to do a test ride and they would be closing at 4:00. So I said, if all goes well just park her outside, hide the key somewhere and I'd pick her up later. No paperwork to sign, no check to write, loving my extended warranty at this point!!!

I asked if I could see the old harness and take a close look at the faulty connector. I looked at most of the connectors and any exposed wire. The S4 spider connector was the only bad plug on the entire harness. There was some heat damage to the plastic body, and only one burnt wire. The face of the plug was clean and free of corrosion. The burnt wire appeared to have a tiny bit of corrosion inside it's hole in the plug, but I had to look really hard to see that. They did not apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease like I had hoped. So, they next time I pull the tank or any tupperware, I'll do it myself.

I asked if I could have the harness and was told they had to hold it for 90 days in case Yamaha wanted to verify the YES warranty work, and after that I could have it. I'll try to get by in the very near future and take some pics of the offending plug, but quite frankly, there is not much to see. Every shot I have seen so far from other people's submissions show a lot more damage than mine.

The mech offered that Yamaha thinks its a short somewhere in the harness, but it's easier to replace the harness than try to track all the wires. I don't disagree with that from a time management aspect, but I'd really be more comfortable knowing what the root of the problem is.

So I got back to her in about 5:30, did a thorough pre-flight inspection, and had an uneventful 20 minute ride home.

No philosphical discourse here. A better response from the dealership than I expected, VERY grateful for the Y.E.S., and glad to have her back after a 9 day absence.

 
:yahoo: The mech offered that Yamaha thinks its a short somewhere in the harness, but it's easier to replace the harness than try to track all the wires. I don't disagree with that from a time management aspect, but I'd really be more comfortable knowing what the root of
Sorry to hear of your problem.

Well that is a stupid coment from Yamaha. What do you mean a short? It's a ground wire, it's supposed to be shorted. If it was indeed shorted the bike would still be running. Jerks. The problem is an open, not a short.

Be sure to file with the NTHSA and stress the fact that your bike quit running while underway on the road. Many recalls are related and based on that fact. Of course mentioning burnt wires and the smell of smoke won't hurt either. MIne didn't quit while driving but I stessed burning wires under the FUEL tank. Also important to stress the fact that it is a ground wire junction connection so it does not get confused with the ignition switch failure issues.

Glad you got it back quick.

 
The mech offered that [SIZE=12pt]Yamaha thinks its a short somewhere in the harness[/SIZE], but it's easier to replace the harness than try to track all the wires. I don't disagree with that from a time management aspect, but I'd really be more comfortable knowing what the root of the problem is.
Oh dear. If anyone at Yamaha would just read these threads and verify the correctness of RZ350's wiring lists, they would realize that a short circuit is not needed to explain how the harnesses are being overloaded. It's a design problem.

 
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