Heli bar installation

[gsozz]

[SIZE=14pt][/size]I just ordered my Heli bar today.......should I attempt the installation my self???[/SIZE]


gsozz

 

[Fairlaner]

[SIZE=14pt][/size]I just ordered my Heli bar today.......should I attempt the installation my self???[/SIZE]
gsozz

 


well join the club, i will be doing mine in the next few days :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink:

 


did you get the triple clamp or just the risers?

 


R

 

 

 

[kurt]

You're in Austin, right? I'm in Georgetown and have all the tools to do it in about 1 hour. Mine took slightly longer, but it was my first time to work on the FJR.

 

[Fairlaner]

You're in Austin, right? I'm in Georgetown and have all the tools to do it in about 1 hour. Mine took slightly longer, but it was my first time to work on the FJR.

What problems if any did you encounter?

How easy was it to drill the ignition screws?

R

 

[kurt]

Drilling the screws was the hardest part. Next time I will use a drill press. I supported the bike with a jack under the headers to keep the steering stem in alignment. It was all cake really, just follow the instructions and it will all make sense when you see it. Pay close attention to the torquing process and values.

 

[Fairlaner]

couldn't you just grind the head off the screw?

R

 

[kurt]

I suppose you could, I didn't consider it because I didn't want to damage the original triple clamp.. I free handed the drill and got off center on the first screw. It was time consuming to get back to center, but not that hard. The second one was easy.

 

[Fairlaner]

I suppose you could, I didn't consider it because I didn't want to damage the original triple clamp.. I free handed the drill and got off center on the first screw. It was time consuming to get back to center, but not that hard. The second one was easy.

I assume once the head of the screw if off the ignition will come away from the triple clamp ?

R

 

[r1byker]

Sounds like we should have tried for another group buy; I'm ordering mine tonight. Man they're getting lots of business from us.

 

[kurt]

Correct. I misspoke though. If you grind off the head, the ignition switch is immediately underneath. The head comes off, the switch lifts off and the screws stick out of the triple by the thickness of the switch plate. Accuracy in removing the heads is very important.

 

[sin_loki]

Drilling the screws was the hardest part. Next time I will use a drill press. I supported the bike with a jack under the headers to keep the steering stem in alignment. It was all cake really, just follow the instructions and it will all make sense when you see it. Pay close attention to the torquing process and values.

+1 on that, worked very well for me. I also highly recommend that you also center punch the bolts as well to keep the drill bit from "wandering", that and take your time.

 

[cyclebabble]

Mine was waiting for me when I got home from work today. I don't think I am going to attempt the installation until Sunday when I have more time, but it doesn't look all that intimidating. We'll see though.

 

[r1byker]

I just ordered mine; I'll be going to the Monterey Historics this weekend so next weekend will be devoted to working on the bike. Plugs, carb sync, oil and filter, and Helibar install. I'm only excited about the last one.

 

[gsozz]

You're in Austin, right? I'm in Georgetown and have all the tools to do it in about 1 hour. Mine took slightly longer, but it was my first time to work on the FJR.

I am in Houston. I am new to riding so getting together to do the work is not an option as I don't have the expeiance to take it on the buisy roads yet.

 

[kurt]

You're in Austin, right? I'm in Georgetown and have all the tools to do it in about 1 hour. Mine took slightly longer, but it was my first time to work on the FJR.

I am in Houston. I am new to riding so getting together to do the work is not an option as I don't have the expeiance to take it on the buisy roads yet.

Someone here or at www.twtex.com should be able to help you out. The Houston group is large and friendly. Keep your keys away from Squeaky.

 

[jmdaniel]

I did mine in about two hours, but I'm anal as hell, and drilled right on the bike, w/o doing anything to the tank, (take off/prop up/etc...). If you don't have any mechanical experience, I would get some help, or take it to a shop.

 

[zenwhipper]

Its very easy, but takes a couple of hours. You do not need to remove the tank. Just take the tree off, hold it upside down on the tank and drill out the ignition bolts. Just go slow with the drilling and make sure you center the bit (use a steel punch) as best you can on the heads of the bolts. Mine drifted a bit on both sides - but I was still able to 'hog' the bolt heads out if you will. I did have to re-route the throttle cable - but that was real easy too. Just unscrew the assembly at the handle bar and remove the throttle housings from the assembly, re-route and put it all back together.

Scott

 

[cyclebabble]

Well that wasn't that hard! Took me about two hours with one trip to the hardware store for some socket adapters. Plus one interruption by the FedEx guy, who had to tell me about his Harley and how it would pretty much destroy the FJR. "Give me my shit and leave me alone Harley boy!" Nah he wasn't that bad.

Anyway install went smoothly, didn't take the tank off, drilled out the ignition bolts right there on the tank. (had a towel protecting the tank) Haven't had a chance to ride it yet, but it feels better just sitting on it in the garage.

If you have mechanical abilities, you should be able to tackle this yourself. No problem.

Chris

 

[Michigan DS]

Well, I am glad that I read this thread prior to starting. I would have removed the gas tank, which I ended up not doing. Thanks guys! Took about an hour and 10 minutes of which 5 minutes were spent looking for a hammer and trying to figure out what to cut the guide wire with. It was a little thicker than I thought. Otherwise it was straight forward and pretty simple.

Trying to remember what tools I used........ a 36mm Socket (which I bought today at Sears for 9 bucks), two torque wrenches, a metal punch, drill bits (1/8, 1/4, & 5/16), #6 and #3 allen wrenches, 17mm (original handlebar nut) and 19 mm socket (new handlebar nut) and a small cutting wheel which I attached to my drill to cut the wire cable guide. Also a large blanket and a couple towels to cover the tank/fairing and provide extra padding when I flipped the original triple clamp upside down to drill out the anti-tamper heads. An extra small towel under the triple clamp is good because it catches the metal shavings from drilling.

Extra parts included the old triple clamp, the original handlebar allen screws (the #6 and #3s), the orignal handle bar 17mm nuts, the wire guides that you have to cut which are attached to the original handlebar mounting bolts and frame for the handle bar allen screws. (I did not expect to have those extra parts).

I think that it helped having previously worked on the handle bars, adjusting and removing one of the small guides on each.

Took the bike for a quick ride and think I am going to like the new position. Tomorrow, I am driving it up North (200 miles) and will see how much of a difference they really make.

I set up a card table next to the bike and laid out the tools and parts prior to starting. It helped to keep everything organized and sped the process up.

Good luck to those who will be installing their own bars.