R1 Shift Arm 4mm Hex Head

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TWILKIN650

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Tried to unscrew the 4mm hex head holding the johnson rod to the stock shift arm today and couldn't break it loose. I hesitate to grab it with a vice grip, but that sucker's on tight. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster? I expected it to come loose with some resistance, but this is rediculous!

 
Tried to unscrew the 4mm hex head holding the johnson rod to the stock shift arm today and couldn't break it loose. I hesitate to grab it with a vice grip, but that sucker's on tight. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster? I expected it to come loose with some resistance, but this is rediculous!
Well, mine was an absolute bitch! I removed the whole rod assembly, held the old shift arm in a vise, and used Vise Grips. I had used an Allen wrench in the beginning, but the attempt ruined the bolt and my wrench. I had to use a new bolt.

 
Tried to unscrew the 4mm hex head holding the johnson rod to the stock shift arm today and couldn't break it loose. I hesitate to grab it with a vice grip, but that sucker's on tight. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster? I expected it to come loose with some resistance, but this is rediculous!
Try a little heat. IIRC there was some type of thread lock used there.

Good luck...

 
I think removing the whole assembly and using a hand held impact driver against a hard surface will be my next step. I'm a little leery of heating the assembly, because it looks as if the joint is pretty delicate and I'd hate to booger it up.

Thinking about it, the threads probably do have a locking compound on them.....one would hate to have that connection loose the bolt going down the road!

Has anyone else tried the hand held impact driver?

 
Mine came off fairly easily, and there was blue loctite on there. I left it on the bike for leverage. I assume, of course, you are talking about the bolt holding the joint to the upper arm. The hand impact driver is one of the most useful tools I have, but I'm askeered you might snap the arm rather than loosen the bolt.

Edit-I see you mentioned removing the assembly before impacting. Good plan.

 
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Radman, will the rod assembly unscrew enough to remove the shift arm and the threaded part of the rod without having to remove the footpeg? In other words, if I just back off the locking nut and pretend I'm going to adjust the shift lever height, and keep on unscrewing is the threaded portion short enough to be removed from the female end of the rod? If not, I'll remove the whole dang footpeg assembly.

 
Don't know, never tried it that way. Removing the whole assembly gives the opportunity to disassemble, clean, and grease the shift lever pivot anyway-better way to do it. There is also another heim joint behind the cover that needs the same attention. In addition, you can clean and grease the sidestand pivot, since it too comes off.

 
Heating isn't a big issue, IF, you use a little common sense. Blue loc-tite doesn't take much heat. A little gentle warming will make a big difference.

 
Removing the rod assembly worked just fine. Then removed the shift arm, and a few firm taps with the hand impact wrench and the hex head bolt was loose. Wire brush the hex bolt to remove the blue Locktite, contact cleaner to remove debris, new Locktite and assembly as shown with the hex head now inserted from the inside into the joint, then washer then arm. Tighten with rachet wrench, lube joint, pull rubber boot over joint. Reattach rod assembly, Locktite nuts and adjust to same position as before. About a ten minute job.

Radman, I'll pull all of the footpeg assembly apart at about 3,000 miles to look at all the other lube points, but today is just too nice not to ride.

I've read the instructions on WHY the new arm is assembled with the rod on the inside, but now realize why. New arm has a dogleg that must be compensated for, or the joint is splayed off to the side. No biggie, just clear when you observe from above rather than from the side.

Thanks for the "hand holding" everyone. Another farkle done!

 
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