Rehashing early clutch engagement

[OregonRider]

My '08 has 60,200 miles.

I bought the bike used in 2015. It had 49,800 on it then.

Basically, since I have owned it, I've had clutch issues: early engagement.

In 10/17, at 57,00 miles I took it a Yamaha dealer. The invoice says that they put in a new "Clutch Plate Kit".

It was better for a while but two years later (this month), it got so bad that I could not keep the engine running with the clutch pulled all the way in. This Clutch Plate Kit only has 3,000 miles on it (yeah yeah, I didn't ride it much… surgery etc…).

I took it to a different Yamaha shop. The invoice indicates that did a "Clutch plate replacement". They did the labor for free because there should not have had problems at 3,000 miles.

The engagement point is still really early.

Hoping for an easy fix, I bought an ASV clutch lever. No matter the setting, it still engages early.

On the center stand, when I shift into first gear, the tire starts to turn. I try stopping it with my foot and it won't completely stop.

I've read a few other "clutch" threads and everybody says, "soak the clutch plate". I am the opposite of "mechanically inclined". I read this writeup: https://www.fjrforum.com/topic/126839-a-detailed-pictorial-clutch-soak-how-to/?tab=comments#comment-715431 and am still a little frightened. I have all the tools and the official shop manual so I "may" be able to do it.

But I'd like to know two things:

Is the clutch soak known to make early clutch engagement better?

Is there a member in the Eugene, Oregon area who I can lean of for advice?

Thanks for listening.

 

[RossKean]

My recommendation is to thoroughly flush and bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Bungee the lever to the grip overnight and then bleed it again the next day.  Also, make sure that the brass bushing in the clutch lever is clean, lubed and not excessively worn.

 

[wfooshee]

Check the brass bushing in the lever for wear. It is a wear item, and will wear down in size, which reduces the "throw" of the lever, and the point where the piston into the master cylinder touches it also wears a hole, which again reduces the "throw" of the lever. The pin on mine actually punched through the brass and i had NO clutch action.

With wear on that bushing, the lever simply can't move the piston far enough into the master cylinder to do any good.

 

[OregonRider]

I used a brand new bushing with the new lever. 

I’ll search for a thread on hydraulic bleeding. 

Thanks again. 

 

[Bounce]

While you're flushing go ahead and do the brakes too.

 

[rbentnail]

While your flushing go ahead and do the brakes too.

Given that the OP is self-addittedly, " the opposite of "mechanically inclined" " and "still a little frightened" of what most consider simple maintenance, I say no.  One item at a time.  Focus on the clutch problem at hand and do not complicate the situation by throwing in more tasks.

 

[OregonRider]

Given that the OP is self-admittedly, " the opposite of "mechanically inclined" " and "still a little frightened" of what most consider simple maintenance, I say no.  One item at a time.  Focus on the clutch problem at hand and do not complicate the situation by throwing in more tasks.

Thanks bentnail.

 

[pierreroyoldtimer]

Yes, I would go for bleeding the system for sure. This and/or the actuating system : main and slave cylinder assembly problem, like a cup installed backward... My 2005 has 110,000 miles and I never had a clutch issue. And I don’t see how throwing new plates in could solve a ‘’non disengaging’’ problem. Ok for a slipping clutch, but otherwise...?

 

[Road_Runner]

So what was the outcome?  DId bleeding solve your problem?