Stripped The Top Bolt Of The T-bar

[bigdolma]

While doing the Sparks today, I stripped the top bolt. The 2 other ones were torqued at 56 ft -lb; the top was about to pass the threashold of 56 ft, but the torque did not click. When I removed it, sure enough I noticed some thread on the bolt. Putting it the bolt back in there, I stopped at roughly 45 ft-lb instead of the 56.

The other 2 are ok, recommend keeping it?

This the 24K mile service. Not sure why the top bolt did this. Room temperature, no oil/residue on the bolt, Husky Torque tool.

BigD.

 

[skyway]

This the 24K mile service.

Is it time for the valves as well?

 

[Warchild]

The other 2 are ok, recommend keeping it?

I should think you'd be okay. I'd run with it like that, perhaps with an extra dab of Loctite Blue on the bolt threads

 

[bigdolma]

thanks..the valves I would assume will be done at 26k

 

[radman]

The feej torque recommendations seem to be for new first time assembly only. Just too many threads about shit stripping when going by the book. I've been running about 10% less than suggested on everything because of this. So far, so good. Most all my bolts have been done by feel, rather than numbers. Just because they have a torque spec doesn't mean one has to use it. They have torque specs for the manifold boot screws, anyone use 'em? Be aware, of course, that loctite wet qualifies as a thread lube, and readings must be lowered as a result. Normally, I wouldn't recommend using lower values, but the number of strippers out there (STFU TDub ) requires it.

 

[markjenn]

I agree with Radman. While I'll use a torque wrench on critical fasteners (e.g, brake caliper bolts), I just use my calibrated arm for everyday stuff and I think some of Yamaha's torque specs are too high, especially if you use loctite. I stripped an oil drain bolt on my old R1 using Yamaha's too-high torque setting and the dealer says that this has happened several times using the factory recommended torque. What's the point of a dry torque setting for a oil drain bolt that is impossible to install dry?

I think with experience, you gain intuition for how torque changes as a bolt snugs up and can get a bolt at a good torque value for that particular fastener, rather than torquing to some arbitrary number that may not take into account tolerances of that particular fastener and contaminaton on threads. And it speeds assembly.

Again, for critical fasteners or internal stuff on the engine, you want to use a torque wrench.

Another thought: you sure your torque wrench is calibrated?

- Mark

 

[bigdolma]

It was used about 9 times already. But have not calibrated it .

 

[FatNakedGuy]

That sucks BigD. I stripped a dogbone using standard torque settings. I'm with the guys who say 10% less is more.

Hey Man, I'm here in Danbury Connecticut this week for work. Awesome roads around here bro. We'll need to take a couple weeks and ride east sometime!