Tie down points

[radman]

Those of you that have trailered the Feej, advise plz on good tie down points. Have a Canyon D, but have heard it's not a good primary front hold down, so where do you hook the front? Are the rear peg mount brackets strong enough to use as rear points?

 

[madmike2]

I've trailered mine twice. Both times I've tied down in the same manner:

Front: A chock of some type (I was using a wooden floored trailer, so nailed some 2X4 to make a wheel rut). I use soft ties (a "loop" of webbing) and cross them using a fork tube at the lower triple tree, crossing to the opposite side (under the fairing noce piece, missing the fender) and fasten with a ratchet strap on each side. I use the Canyon Dancer as a "back-up" rather than the primary tiedown.

Rear: I have a 3" wide ratchet strap that I throw across the pillion seat, panniers OFF the bike (using a blanket folded to protect the seat and plastic tailpiece) and tighten down.

I've read of others using the footpeg brackets, but when I tug on mine they move a bit and flex the rear subframe...so I'm a bit on the "chicken" side.

Hey, its such a short journey, what're you worried about. :lol:

 

[user 213]

I haven't had to trailer my FJR, but when helping someone else out I used the lower triple tree/fork tube area in front as MM2 stated with the front wheel blocked. Then I tied another strap to the rear wheel and back to the rear of the trailer just to keep the wheel from hopping.

Leave the side and center stands up, unless you want some new holes in the floor.

I do like to use the rear peg mounts, but not stressed, just for added security in keeping even pressure and the bike upright.

 

[Bounce]

Trailered mine home from D&H nwhen first taking delivery (cracked ribs) and to/from the The Big Dance in Missoula in 2003 (to save the tires).

In both cases, I tied the front down with soft ties through the lower triple clamp and used ratcheting straps to slightly compress the suspension while using a tie town strap to hold the front rim to the floor of the trailer. In the back I used soft ties to attach to the rear subframe (right where the luggage rack's cross-member crosses; in front of where a Wilbers preload adjuster mounts) and slightly compressed the rear suspension. I also strapped the rear rim to the floor of the trailer. This allows the suspension to flex like it was designed to while keeping the wheels from hopping off the floor of the trailer during rebound.

In Missoula, because of the multiple bikes on a single trailer, and the type of trailer, we also used a Pingel wheel chock. IIRC we paid about $30 each for them.

WC35H (3.5" wide wheels) WC65H (6.5" wheels)

https://www.pingelonline.com/price_list_d.htm#W

https://tinyurl.com/hqwll

These two trailering events were:

D&H to DFW: ~730 miles

Round Rock, TX to Missoula, MT and back: ~1840 miles each way

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

Rad- the CD and the rear pegs are fine and all you need! If you'll let your SO stand on the rear pegs, it's good enough to tie down to. I asked this question before but NO ONE answered and that was "Has anyone seen (not heard through the grapevine) personally a Canyon Dancer failure or even a handlebar failure?". No one answered! I have personally trailered my bikes tens of thousands of miles without one problem. Like I said before, I've leaned on the bars harder with more pressure than what the CD's exert! The only thing I do is put a piece of 1 1/2" sched. 40 PVC to protect the grips. Just make sure the CD and tiedowns are in good shape (no fraying or rips), and your golden! I guess you have to do what makes you warm and fuzzy inside though!

 

[Bounce]

I asked this question before but NO ONE answered and that was "Has anyone seen (not heard through the grapevine) personally a Canyon Dancer failure or even a handlebar failure?". No one answered!

Interesting. I answered excactly that question not long ago. Selective memory, I guess.

 

[radman]

Thanks guys. Couldn't for the life of me figure out the front, but found that if the trailer will allow the angle, I can route straps through the tree opening in the fairing and miss all the ABS tube work. Trailer has a V-Notch for the front tire, that will have to do. I still plan on using the CD as a back up to the front frame mounts-should allow me to put less strain on the grips and bars as a result. Would hate to be the one to provide first-hand evidence of a failure in that regard, assurances to the contrary notwithstanding.....

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

I asked this question before but NO ONE answered and that was "Has anyone seen (not heard through the grapevine) personally a Canyon Dancer failure or even a handlebar failure?". No one answered!

Interesting. I answered excactly that question not long ago. Selective memory, I guess.

Never saw your reply. Would be very interested to see it. Which thread was it?

 

[Bounce]

I don't remember the thread, but someone challenged the world to disagree with their personal perception of CD's.

I simply answered that I have seen a set of bars bent by CDs when used on a heavier bike. Whoever it was either believes me or doesn't. I can simply answer the question. I can't disuade them from a determined course.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

I don't remember the thread, but someone challenged the world to disagree with their personal perception of CD's.
I simply answered that I have seen a set of bars bent by CDs when used on a heavier bike. Whoever it was either believes me or doesn't. I can simply answer the question. I can't disuade them from a determined course.

I never saw or responded to your post concerning this. Use whatever makes you warm & fuzzy I guess! I have never seen any damage myself and have towed the FJR and many other bikes for quite a few miles using the CD's. Have seen others use them with all makes and models use them without failure. Just wondering who and how. No, I would never use it alone, but with tiedowns on the rear, not a problem.... so far! Hopefully it will stay that way. All is good!

 

[vinnie]

radman,

from what I've seen you write before, you do not lack intelligence.

Just use your common sense, the bike will be fine.

this thread may qualify for one of those "pointless recurring" things.

I remember RTS going over this not long ago.

I remember writing something like this:

I trailer my FJR 800 miles one way every summer and then back.

And many other bikes, when I've had to.

I use soft ties around the handlebars. (Yes, sometimes they do mess

up your grips a bit.) and then I use ratcheted tie downs to scrunch the front

end down. I then wrap tie down straps around the rear peg braces and

pull sideways, but not overly: just trying to keep the bike straight on the bumps.

I have never had a problem with the FJR or any other bike, and some have gone

2000 miles and back, that way.

Good luck.

 

[PerfectBlueride]

When I trailered mine we used the canyon dancer and torqed it down to take the bounce out of the forks.

Then just ran one tie down through the rear wheel to hold the bike from moving backwards.

This was done on a bigger landscapers trailer, 20+ feet. and the bike was trailered about 50 miles with no issues.

 

[mehaffydr]

I cant say its the best way because after hauling my FJR with two flat tires and bent wheels home from Utah to Missouri I saw a post that warned about the canyon dancer but it did work good for me. If I ever haul again I will probly use additional tie downs.

 

[skyway]

Just curious as to the color of that Russel seat you are also carrying in the back of that trailer?

Beige?

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

I use the Pingel wheel chock, tie to the lower triple tree and use two ties around the rear wheel cinched down to each side. Rides great. And just a note I have seen reports that cast bars have been broken using the Canyon Dancers. But I can't substanciate the circumstances.

 

[PerfectBlueride]

[yep,wish I could have that as a seat B)