Valve clearance inspection

[Hawkerplt]

My 07 has 34,000 miles on it and I've yet to check valve clearances. The bike is running perfectly! :clapping: Has since new.

I'm afraid of giving a dealership a perfectly running machine and getting back crap. From what I gather, most inspections yield valves that are within spec. I do have a maintenance background (cars and airplanes) but I'm a bit reluctant to dive into this myself. Maybe I should stop being such a vag get a shim kit from Hot Cams coming and dive on in.

What to do???

 

[Bounce]

Why do people always ask this? It's a $13k paper weight if your gamble doesn't pay off. It's nothing more than a gamble if you don't at least check the clearances at the proscribed interval. Each bike and how it's operated is different. Someone else's findings (from actually having clearances checked) won't guarantee a like outcome for you. If you don't check them (or have them checked) you have no way of knowing until something MUCH more costly happens to let you know your gamble didn't pay off.

 

[Geezer]

Personally, I'd wait until cold weather ends the riding season and then dig in. That way you don't need to buy shims in advance and you can ask for help if you run into a problem without missing any riding time.

If you are comfortable with tools and work slowly and carefully, checking the clearances is not too bad. If you have to replace shims then it gets a little more complicated, but still OK once you read up on other people's mistakes on the forum and how to avoid them. You'll need some gaskets for the coolant plumbing and maybe a couple other gaskets depending on how comfortable you are reusing the old ones.

If you haven't replaced the cam chain tensioner then this would be a good time to do that as well.

 

[FJRay]

Like Bounce said. Why take the chance????? If you have some skills it really isn't that hard. Just get over the fear and loathing and get at it. <_<

 

[Patriot]

I found an independent shop that folks from all over Miss and Looziana bring their bikes...he's 100miles away from my home and nobody else will touch my bike

When I get there, the owner has a Goldwing and a Harley engine or two on the bench with an empty frame nearby and valve covers, cams, and cylinder jugs laying organized next to the case.

Over in the other corner of the shop, his son has crotch rockets lined up in order of going on one of the two lifts with R1 and Ninja engines against the wall, either as replacements or rebuilds including blueprinting.

So, what I'm saying is find somebody that's real good at what they do with a niche leaning on crotch rockets who an independent, and possibly a family business.

Oh, Aaron the son said something about my engine being real close to a FZ1, so even though it's the only FJR he's worked on, he said it was very familiar...

(he didn't complain or mention that I always include the shop manual when I bring in my bike)

and, even though it's a very laid back shop (for instance, Aaron let me stand behind him as he pulled the rear wheel, took it apart, and lubed the shaft spline. He said he's happy to show his customers how to do "maintenance" so they can do it themselves next time if they wish...how many shop folks do that.

but I digress...the owner's policy is he does NOT mount car tires...was told the liability to the shop was too great

 

[escapefjrtist]

Checking the valve clearances isn't that big of a deal. With a mechanical background, do some research on the forum and dig in. As others have mentioned, wait until this winter when downtime is less critical.

Good luck.

--G

 

[dannymax]

As already mentioned, doing it yourself is the way to go, and waiting till cold weather makes good sense too.

Now, to sweeten the pot a bit......by doing the work yourself you will probly save enough coin to buy that bike lift you've been wanting.

Tip: If you upgrade the CCT at the same time be sure to read up on avoiding the dreaded 'crank sprocket tooth skip'....it would be a shame to find your valve lash within spec and have to pull the cams anyway just to re-time them.

Lots of info available on this......(please don't ask!)

 

[SkooterG]

The bike is running perfectly!

They tend to do that. Right up until they stop running perfectly. Funny how that works.

Put me in the 'Quit being a moronic wuss I can't believe you haven't done this yet' camp.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Put me in the 'Quit being a moronic wuss I can't believe you haven't done this yet' camp.

Not sure aboot the wuss part Scooty.. But you've been in the moron camp fer quite some time now..

:finger:

 

[Constant Mesh]

The valve clearance inspection is all about the engine exhaust emissions. Look where it appears in the maintenance recommendations -- "Periodic Maintenance Chart for the Emission Control System".

Air filter maintenance, changing engine oil and filter, and coolant maintenance are probably all more critical to the engine's longevity but they don't affect engine emissions.

Too much is made of valve clearance checks/adjustments. It's all about pleasing the emission's gods.

 

[Fred W]

Too much is made of valve clearance checks/adjustments. It's all about pleasing the emission's gods.

That's an interesting (alternative) opinion. And I'm all about alternative opinions.

Let's go through the mental gymnastics...

What most people believe is that if you ignore the valve clearance checks for long enough, and a clearance reduces to zero or less then you will destroy your valve train because these are interference engines, and the pston crown will contact the valve head at TDC. This is actually a highly unlikely possibility. For one thing, you have at least .006" of clearance on a new bike. when it goes below .006" it is considered "out of spec". The reason is because of what that reduced clearance does to the valve duration, not the increased lift.

Based on available evidence, it would take a very long time to wear .006" off of the valve seats. So these valve checks and adjustments are not to prevent the piston from hitting the valve, they are to maintain proper valve timing.

I am relatively certain that there are people who completely ignore these valve check intervals. When was the last time that anyone heard of an engine being damaged just because the valves wore too far and were not adjusted?

If the valve timing is off I would expect the performance of the engine to suffer noticeably (eventually). It is also somewhat possible that, if neglected long enough, you might eventually burn up an exhaust valve left open too long. But I think that this is kind of a stretch. I think that you'd have to really be wailing on it in a race type fashion for that to happen.

So, yeah, the OP has already exceeded the manufacturers specified periodicity of 26,600 miles. I am in agreement that you can just wait until some cold weather, down-time and do the check yourself. It isn't that hard and in all likelihood you will not need a shim kit. Your engine is relatively safe until then.

Now, if you hear anything that sounds like marbles in a can, do not wait for cold weather. Replace that timing chain tensioner right away. Because that sucker will destroy your engine if it lets go.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Proper valve clearance is all about preserving the valves and your engine. When the clearances are too small and the valve can't seat properly, it will not seal. Performance will suffer, you may not notice, carbon builds on the seats and the exhaust valves can burn. It just gets worse with time. This will require the cylinder head to come off, regrind the seats and lap the valves in. Let's say you neglect that to a point, that cylinder with the bad valves will overheat and you might end up with a melted hole in your piston. Yep, no fun there (BTDT). Huge emission problem!!

However, this is a bit extreme. Neglecting the valve check interval is a small sin to a point, because clearances take a fair while to become zero. If you waited 75,000 miles for example (nobody can predict accurately), you may have some valves with zero clearances.... those would need to be addressed el pronto! Of course, you don't know because you've never checked.

So, wait until riding season is over and get to it.

 

[SkooterG]

If the valve timing is off I would expect the performance of the engine to suffer noticeably (eventually). It is also somewhat possible that, if neglected long enough, you might eventually burn up an exhaust valve left open too long. But I think that this is kind of a stretch. I think that you'd have to really be wailing on it in a race type fashion for that to happen.

A quick internet search found the following descriptions of what can happen if valve checks are ignored. This was always my understanding of what *could* happen.

When a valve is closed, it seals the pressure in the combustionchamber. While it is closed, there should be a small clearnance

between the valve and the thingamajig that pushes the valve open

(either the cam, or cam-actuated rocker).

If the clearance goes to zero, the valve cannot close all the way.

Other than the obvious problem of not holding pressure in the

combustion chamber, you can cook the exhaust valves. I have a

splendid example sitting here next to me. The exhaust valve has

to deal with hot flowing gases. The main cooling for this valve

comes from contact with the cylinder head.

If the clearance between the tappet and rocker arm is too small, ornegative, then the valve will not fully close and seal the combustion

chamber. The valve has to seat fully in order to cool off. With hot gasses

blowing past and no chance of cooling in its seat the result is a "burned

valve."

When the valve seat wears the tappet clearance gets smaller.

When the tappet and valve train wears the clearance gets larger.

Sometimes you get lucky and both wear about the same and cancel each other

out.

Now, if you hear anything that sounds like marbles in a can, do not wait for cold weather. Replace that timing chain tensioner right away. Because that sucker will destroy your engine if it lets go.

Sure, eventually. But is it the imminent disaster everyone around here thinks it is justifying the paranoia? I rode mine for about 25k miles while it marbled away not knowing any better before having it replaced.

 

[Fred W]

Yeah exactly. Those things can happen when/if the tappet clearance ever goes to zero.

Based on my own experience on my own FJR1300 that may be an infinite number of miles, because mine haven't changed at all in 50k miles.

Of course I'm being (at least partially) facetious. I do my valve checks on schedule partly because I want to know what they are doing over a known period of miles. I'm just an anal retentive, recreational maintenance kind of guy.

As for the chain tensioners, you are a lucky guy (so I hear) Greg. IMO running any interference type IC engine with a sloppy timing chain is quite similar to playing Russian roulette.

Are you feeling lucky today punk?

 

[FJRay]

I suppose if you are rich and good looking like Scooter then your luck is good and you can put off the adjustment. I would rather be sure my ride is properly serviced and ready to go or you could get Serviced by Scooter :blink:

 

[Constant Mesh]

My experience with the tensioner makes me believe that one should periodically exercise it with a screwdriver. When I initially backed the tensioner away from the chain/guide the bolt/screw turned a bit rough -- it probably had turned just a few degrees over several years.

Once I ran it in and out several times with the screwdriver it began to turn more and more smoothly. One can assume that the bolt must turn with minimal friction so that the spring can extend the tensioner as required over time. The bolt is constantly bombarded with engine vibration and one might expect it will lose its smoothness of operation over time. That's one of the few bolts on the bike which is free to turn. A friction buildup will make it less and less effective.

 

[RaYzerman19]

My experience with the tensioner makes me believe that one should periodically exercise it with a screwdriver. When I initially backed the tensioner away from the chain/guide the bolt/screw turned a bit rough -- it probably had turned just a few degrees over several years.

Once I ran it in and out several times with the screwdriver it began to turn more and more smoothly. One can assume that the bolt must turn with minimal friction so that the spring can extend the tensioner as required over time. The bolt is constantly bombarded with engine vibration and one might expect it will lose its smoothness of operation over time. That's one of the few bolts on the bike which is free to turn. A friction buildup will make it less and less effective.

If you are talking about an original CCT, and you've had issues like that with it, you are indeed playing Russian roulette, IMHO.

 

[bigtallguy]

I found an independent shop that folks from all over Miss and Looziana bring their bikes...he's 100miles away from my home and nobody else will touch my bike

When I get there, the owner has a Goldwing and a Harley engine or two on the bench with an empty frame nearby and valve covers, cams, and cylinder jugs laying organized next to the case.

Over in the other corner of the shop, his son has crotch rockets lined up in order of going on one of the two lifts with R1 and Ninja engines against the wall, either as replacements or rebuilds including blueprinting.

So, what I'm saying is find somebody that's real good at what they do with a niche leaning on crotch rockets who an independent, and possibly a family business.

Oh, Aaron the son said something about my engine being real close to a FZ1, so even though it's the only FJR he's worked on, he said it was very familiar...

(he didn't complain or mention that I always include the shop manual when I bring in my bike)

and, even though it's a very laid back shop (for instance, Aaron let me stand behind him as he pulled the rear wheel, took it apart, and lubed the shaft spline. He said he's happy to show his customers how to do "maintenance" so they can do it themselves next time if they wish...how many shop folks do that.

but I digress...the owner's policy is he does NOT mount car tires...was told the liability to the shop was too great

What's the name of the shop, if you don't mind sharing your secret? I've been looking for a good place to take mine for the valve check. Also, how much did they charge you? Thanks!

 

[lnewlf]

BTW-just ordered a CTA from Cheap Cycle Parts for @ $94.00 shipped. Lowest price I could find-highest was $115.00 plus $23.95 shipping. Oh yeah-and $3.30 each for coolant pipe O rings-guess I'll find those locally..