speeometer indication erratic

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silveryam

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I have a 2010 model and I have noticed the speeometer indication jumps around occasionally. I don't know that it has anything to do with it but I recently disconnected the windshield auto retract.

 
You did not mention ABS light on or any error codes, but........ The speed signal comes from the rear ABS sensor... I'd start there to see it is correctly installed and work my way up, checking connectors are clean and snug..... unplug and replug at the ABS ECU, etc. even if your ABS light is not on or there are no error codes. Your ABS system was changed in 2008 model, so the service manual will tell you what the sensor resistance is (1.2-1.6 kOhm for '06-'07).

You could also have a loose connection at the instrument cluster. If you check all that and let us know if it fixed it or not.........

 
Thanks! I'm not getting an ABS light but I did recently have the rear wheel off when I serviced the rear swingarm and I was under the dash when I unpluged the wind shield auto retract. Hopefully its a loose connection. I don't know how to retrive trouble codes. It's still covered under warranty so if its a defective part it should be covered. I will check and report back.

 
lube the cable
smile.png


 
Today I checked the trouble codes best I could but the information I found so far seems to be different than the 2010 model. But here is what I got. d01- 17, d03- 95, d05- 95, d06-133, d08- .6 then I tried toggling the kill switch then got out of and back into the diagnostic mode and the d05 came back 70 and d06 was 68. the speed sensor is clean and I'm not getting an abs light. If I get time tomorrow I will plug the windshield auto retract back in for grins and see what that does but I'm not optomistic about that helping.

 
Thanks! I'm not getting an ABS light but I did recently have the rear wheel off when I serviced the rear swingarm and I was under the dash when I unpluged the wind shield auto retract. Hopefully its a loose connection. I don't know how to retrive trouble codes. It's still covered under warranty so if its a defective part it should be covered. I will check and report back.
Mine has a note on the rear wheel not to get anything magnetic near it. I don't know what that'd do, but ...... maybe it's worth a mention.

 
Thanks! I'm not getting an ABS light but I did recently have the rear wheel off when I serviced the rear swingarm and I was under the dash when I unpluged the wind shield auto retract. Hopefully its a loose connection. I don't know how to retrive trouble codes. It's still covered under warranty so if its a defective part it should be covered. I will check and report back.
Mine has a note on the rear wheel not to get anything magnetic near it. I don't know what that'd do, but ...... maybe it's worth a mention.
Since the abs works off a magnetic pick up anything magnetic too close would interfere with the signal

 
I couldn't think of any relevance with the windshield retract.... I'd check the connectors at the back of the instrument cluster and at the ABS ECU where the sensors plug in. May be a loose pin or slightly corroded one?? The act of unplugging and replugging may 'fix' it. Perhaps another thing to go over is the ground spiders, although there may not be a direct relevance there.... never know, never hurts.

 
Here it is 2 days later and the speedometer is acting up again!
angry01.gif
Man, I know that's frustrating!

I mentioned the sensor at the rear wheel because you said the wheel had been off. If it were me that would be no coincidence because if it can be broken, I'll find a way to do it. I'd double check my work back there to be sure nothing is amiss.

RaYzerman19's post makes a lot of sense too. An inconsistent contact at a connection or ground can make things act pretty weird.

 
The following is true for a Gen II.

The speed signal is taken from the ABS sensor. The ABS sensor goes to the ABS ECU then on to the ECU. The ECU converts the ABS analog signal into a digital signal, does some math to convert it to a digital speed signal then sends the speed, tach and gear information to the meter assembly on one wire, in serial communications. The meter assembly sends back an acknowledge signal to the ECU that the data was received and it meets some specified format. If there is an error in any of this communication you would be getting an Er-1 to Er-4 displayed on the meter assembly and your FJR would be unable to start.

Once the digital signal arrives at the meter assembly it is used to drive the stepping motor for the speedometer needle and the stepping motor for the tach needle. For the speedometer to display erratic needle movement with no error codes it would almost have to be a problem with the meter assembly or between the ABS sensor and the ABS ECU. Inspect the ABS sensor and wiring carefully. Some people have had the ABS sensor body separate when they try to remove it from the sensor housing. You can put a jumper on the ABS Diagnostic connector and look for ABS error codes stored in memory; any stored codes would be displayed in the center of the meter assembly above the clock.

After you know that the ABS sensor and wiring are good you are probably looking at a defective meter assembly. Use a flashlight and carefully look at the speedometer background and verify that there is no bubbling or peeling that the needle could catch on.

Sorry for the technical jargon, sorry for the diagnosis. Hope I'm wrong or you have YES.

 
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I see I am a month late on this, but did you check your battery cables? My 06 did this last summer on a trip up north from TN. After 3000 miles the bike died on some back road in IN on the way home. Found my battery ground was loose. Tightened up and not a problem since. The first clue should have been intermittent static on my J&M / Zumo XM radio.

 
It stopped acting up just before I took it to the dealer so naturally they didn't do anything since it wouldn't act up while in their shop. I suspect the problem was moisture. I noticed condensation under the lens and shortly after the condensation went away the speedo lined out. I had disabled the windshield auto retract and I think excess water got to the back side of the interment cluster via the front vent because the windshield was up when I washed it. I would have thought it would be more water proof than that.

 
So, the fault was most likely the meter assembly.

It would have been helpful to have known that there was fogging of the lens(es).

The meter assembly has been very robust about water and dirt intrusion, I can't remember any mention of this kind of issue before. When I took my meter assembly apart at ~ 70k miles it was 100% clean and dry. I have to ask, garden hose and towel wash? Pressure washer followed by either a leaf blower or compressed air drying?

 
Sorry I didn't think about the moisture until later. I was at work when I initially posted and had to cut my internet time short. Anyway I wash using the "shower" setting on my garden hose sprayer then I use a leaf blower to blow the water from the nooks and crannies then dry with a microfiber towel. I re-connected the windshield auto retract just before I took it to the dealer. Although unlikely I didn't want them to have a reason to deny coverage. I have not disconnected it again just because its still under warranty. I did however raise the windshield once since then while rinsing the bike. I didn't spray water directly into the vent but some must have gotten in there because there was some mild condensation under the lens but the speedo didn't act up. But this tends to confirm my suspicion the unit isn't well sealed from the back.

 
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