Lubeing pivot points

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jerry1

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I am getting ready to do pivot point maintenance on my 2006 FJR. I am going to hang it from one 1/2 inch X 5 1/2 inch lag bolt screwed into a joist. Is this safe ? What do you think

Jerry

 
Whoa, lots of variables here. Maybe a few more (very specific) details of what you're planning to do here would help. I support mine via jack stands on European rear sliders, but most seem to use an overhead solution attached to the sub frame. We need more details.

 
Probably safe. A lag bolt of that size won't fail. I assume that the joist you are using will support several hundred pounds (2 x 12?)? Might get a bit bendy if in the middle of a long span without other support. Straps rated for the weight too? I would probably want some redundancy in case something slipped or broke but maybe that's just me. If you are using ratchet straps, make sure you have a plan for releasing them once you are finished. Make sure your attachment points are not too low and the fuel tank isn't full - you don't want the bike to be top-heavy when the rear wheel is removed.

 
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"you don't want the bike to be top-heavy when the rear wheel is removed"

Can't stress this enough. Center of mass will be above a line

drawn from front tire contact patch to point where straps

attach for hanging rear of bike.

Take steps to prevent bike from falling to side.

 
I am going to hang it from one 1/2 inch X 5 1/2 inch lag bolt screwed into a joist. Is this safe ?
Only you can decide if it's safe or not as we don't know what your building structure is like, if you have a 14 foot celing, your rigging and technical abilities, rigging materials, etc.

A single bolt reminds of a pinata that's going to be a mess to control. I'd do two or more lag bolts separated by several joists or so so it doesn't tip from side-to-side so much....unless you have some rigging magic figured out. I personally did a 4 lag bolt setup in my garage for an extended maintenance cycle and also to part out one bike.

 
Jerry,

I've performed this task several times over the last 13 years of FJR ownership and I have been refining my method for functionality and safety.

What I've found to work best is putting the front wheel in a wheel chock. The $40 Harbor Freight version will do. I mount that chock on a 4 foot long 2 x 12 and put hefty eyebolts near the ends to which I lash down the lower triple clamp. This gives plenty of side to side stability for the bike.

For lifting the rear of the bike I have a boat winch mounted to a double 2x12 that spans my garage stall, maybe 11 ft wide.

Sounds like you can get to some joists in your space. Be sure that whatever you attach to to lift the back of the bike can safely handle 500 lbs. (a little safety margin). I use two heavy duty nylon straps to hold up the rearward cross member that your rear seat latch is on. That lift point is well back from the bike's center of gravity therefore you're lifting less than the whole bikes weight. Conservatively, the front wheel is getting 1/3 of the weight so your setup will take about 2/3's.

Starting with the bike on the centerstand I winch up the back of the bike until the rear wheel is about 8-10" off the floor. This gives adequate space to conduct your wrenching. I put a cinder block under the back wheel to take some of the weight (adjustable by your lifting apparatus) when I'm initially loosening the pivot hardware nuts and bolts.

When it comes time to remove the dog bones, slide a wedge or shims under the rear tire to support the swingarm. Reverse at reassembly of course.

Again I'll emphasize what SLK50 said above: Make sure that you have adequate safeguards to prevent a sideways tip over. If you dig deep enough on these pages, you will find a photo of some unlucky FJR owners bike on its side with the tail in the air. Of course that would make pivot arm service a little easier.

 
I use a two ton chain hoist attached to a hefty steel I beam that was installed to pull the engines out of heavy equipment. No failures to date.

 
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