'05 won't start

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JoshHefnerX

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Ok guys, I need some help w/ my FJR. I haven't ridden it or started it for a couple of months because the throttle plates were sticking. I finally had a chance to clean them this weekend. As I was putting the tank back on, I noticed a small fuel drip from the pump. It was coming from the return hose fitting. I pulled the fuel pump and replaced an O-ring that was in there and it seemed to go back together fairly easily. Now I cannot get the beasty to start..

When I put it back together I tried starting it and I realized that I had a couple of items disconnected. I went back and reconnected them. Found out I had a couple of codes that I cleared and have tried again w/ no luck. The bike will start and die immediately. I can hear the pump turn on, and we pulled the high pressure fuel hose and saw a decent flow when the pump kicked on - I didn't measure it as I don't have the specs. I also pulled out the stethoscope, and was able to hear the injectors clicking as I cranked the engine over.

As of now my battery is low (11.6v), and of course my charger took a crap… 

I have not gotten any other codes since I cleared the originals. Anyone have some suggestions? If there's anyone in the Phoenix area that feels like they would like to take a look, pm me and I'll give you a call. Of course I'll supply free food and beer!

Josh

 
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Well obvious; It is resisting you due to the outright neglect during the prime of the riding season. Starved for attention and had to listen to all others vrooming by while is sat dormant and alone.

Okay, not sure on this one, but I do hope it's not too serious.

Won't hold idle, but will start. Maybe it sat with some bad gas; perhaps empty the fuel tank and purge the lines and injectors.

If not that; it's got to be something not connected back correctly. Good Luck.

 
Thanks for the link Howie. I have checked out a few of the items mentioned in the post.

TPS recall was done about 6mo ago and was looking fine in the diag mode

Battery I already know is shit(at least now from all of the cranking). But cannot get a new one until Tues.

Airbox is clean as I had just had it off to clean the throttle bodies.

Connectors by the neck - I will have to remove the T-bar to double-check, but I doubt it's bad as nothing ever corrodes in Arizona. - it's also never sat in the rain for as long as I've owned it.

Tank venting was tried by leaving the cap opened.

There is no rust in the tank.

Now I did visually see that the fuel came out under pressure by removing the line and cycling the key, however I have been unable to verify the pressure. If I can manage to rig up my fuel pressure gauge can anyone tell me what the psi should be?

Also, can anyone tell me what the minimum voltage is required to run the bike. It's my understanding that a minimum voltage is needed before the ecu will let the bike run.

Oh FJR-Remington, we're only just beginning to get into the riding season here in PHX. Riding the FJR in 115deg in traffic is not fun. I usually don't ride unless it's under 90deg. Yeah, I live in the wrong state...

Josh

 
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Now I did visually see that the fuel came out under pressure by removing the line and cycling the key, however I have been unable to verify the pressure. If I can manage to rig up my fuel pressure gauge can anyone tell me what the psi should be?
36psi from the FSM.

Even when my fuel pump had gone all pear-shaped, it still would output fuel at a prodigious rate. But volume doesn't equal pressure. Hooked up to the fuel rail and there wasn't enough pressure to atomize the fuel coming out of the injectors, although the pump would fill a quart jar in about 30 seconds.

New pump fixed my problem, but my problem started with copious amounts of rust in the tank, grinding the pump internals into ground beef. Still would pump large volumes, but when the system required pressure, it wouldn't pump anything out.

 
I had completely removed the tank to swap out a bad thermostat, which took a couple of days as time allowed. When I reassembled everything, it wouldn't start. I tried several times that day (being careful not to fry the starter). The next day it would sort-of fire. The third day it finally started and ran crappy, then finally ran well. I suspect maybe the fuel rail or something was airbound, even though theoretically the fuel keeps looping through the system. It's been running fine for the last 3 or 4 months since.

Pepperell

Edit: Mine's an '04

 
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hmm, I wonder if there is some way to 'bleed' the system... I would think that just keying or going into diag mode would flush the fuel rail, but maybe there's more to it.....?

Have to try it Tues night when I get a new battery.

Josh

 
ISTR that the 1st gens fuel system is recirculated. ie there is a return line. When you get some volts on the battery, rather than trying to start it and running the battery down again, what about cycling the key several times to try and purge the fuel rail of any air?

Not sure it will work, but worth a shot.

 
Same thing happened to me once after I had the tank off. While I can't be sure, I think it was air in the fuel lines that was causing a restriction. After I pulled the fuel line and tested it by running the pump to make sure it was flowing, it started. This was after a LOT of cranking and other diagnosing.

You really need to get that battery charged. Also, make sure the throttle is WFO while cranking.

I have limited time today and tomorrow, but could stop by and take a gander..........

 
My battery is old, so I'm going to try picking one up today. I have found a way to rig in my fuel pressure gauge, so I will test that when I get the new battery in. I'll also pull the return and run it into another conatiner to see if I'm getting any air.

Josh

 
Ok, so I put in a new battery and try firing her up... No-go. Rig up my fuel pressure gauge and get a reading of ..... 8psi! Awesome, so now I know where my problem lies. I will be removing the pump again tonight to see what I screwed up. It worked when I removed it - it will work when I'm done with it.

Josh

 
Rig up my fuel pressure gauge and get a reading of ..... 8psi!
"Juuuuuuuuuuust a little outside!"

uecker_f.jpg


 
Just for the hell of it, you might try cycling the pump *many* times (by turning ignition switch on/off) just to make sure it is properly primed and fuel lines are free of air.

 
Just for the hell of it, you might try cycling the pump *many* times (by turning ignition switch on/off) just to make sure it is properly primed and fuel lines are free of air.
Even better, enter the "Diagnostic Mode", cycle to Mode #9, Fuel System/Battery Voltage, and turn your kill switch ON. The fuel pump will run continuously until you turn the kill switch off, turn your key off, burn up the pump, or run out of gas.

Unfortunately, 8psi ain't gonna cut it.

Josh, you may wanna bookmark THIS ASAP, as the stocker from Yamaha is like $450.00.

 
I'm going to pull the fuel pump again and double check that I got it back together ok. I do remember there being an o-ring between the outer shell and the inner housing. If all of that looks good I'll try priming again.. $450 is about $445 more than I have... So a new pump isn't happening.... Anyway it worked when I pulled it apart, it should work again. I probably just did something dumbassed....

Josh

 
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