2006 Gen II coolant change

[Ozzy]

OK, got both sides of the fairings off. overflow bottle on left side. Where is the rad cap?

There doesn't seem to be any help on line for Gen II's or on you tube and how to change your coolant. I haven't emptied the old coolant yet, I'm assuming its the bolt at the bottom of the water pump on lower right side? old coolant is very dirty. what's wrong with these previous owners. I swear people buy bikes, keep them for a few years and sell them and nobody maintains them. On and on it goes.

Anyways guys, if you have some good advice for me on this it would be helpful.

Cheers

 

[2degreesout]

https://www.fjrtech.net/getdbitem.cfm?item=43

 

[BobCo]

^^^^^^ Where he said

Does this help?

 

[graler]

The red cap is on the left side ( while you are sitting on the bike) right under the removable panel. When I did my coolant flush I didn't need to remove any blue panels. You can turn that red cap an get just enough clearance to take it off. When it comes to refilling I used a long nose small funnel. I also used a syringe that had a tip on it that was barbed so I could put some clear tube on it and feed that to the overflow reservoir. I found all of these wonderful tools at tractor supply. A side benefit of having kids involved in ffa and raising goats.

 

[Ozzy]

All great tips guys, thank you for your quick follow ups. I have solved the problem. First change on the FJR, always harry the first time. Yes, I think I went a little crazy on the removal of panels. good to know for next time. Diagram was helpful as well and thanks for the FJRTECH page. I think he's going a little overboard on that one Though.

One other question while I have your attentions, I live in Canada and I know that I need coolant with no phosphate or silicates. but few say that on the packaging. people have been suggesting prestone long life but does not indicate that on their pkg. it says that it's not an issue in north america, only asia and europe. I say BS!

I found an OEM brand that says no silicate but not phosphate. any suggestions. I can get yamaha's but twice the price.

 

[Ozzy]

The red cap is on the left side ( while you are sitting on the bike) right under the removable panel. When I did my coolant flush I didn't need to remove any blue panels. You can turn that red cap an get just enough clearance to take it off. When it comes to refilling I used a long nose small funnel. I also used a syringe that had a tip on it that was barbed so I could put some clear tube on it and feed that to the overflow reservoir. I found all of these wonderful tools at tractor supply. A side benefit of having kids involved in ffa and raising goats.

LOL

gotta love the farm life, TSC in my town always helps me in a pinch. Thanks again.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Here's the kicker...... if that is the first coolant change, then the bike hasn't had a valve check......

You can pry the fairing panel a bit outboard to get a thin necked funnel in.... pour in new coolant very slowly to avoid trapping air if possible.

 

[escapefjrtist]

For many years, I've used Honda 50/50 coolant in quart bottles. In the last couple years pricing for it has gone through the roof...stupid expensive now.

Switched and now using Zerex Asian Formula in the FJR and Tenere. Shopping around, pricing is good on-line and my local O'Reillys carries it too.

YMMV

--G

 

[Mihalis fjr]

I use this and i noticed that the engine runs a bit cooler..also it is not harmful for the paint as the other coolants..

https://www.belray.com/bel-ray-moto-chill-racing-coolant

 

[08FJRSteve]

I have an '08 FJR with a little over 64k on the odo and just finished my third coolant flush. I've figured out a couple of tricks that make it a little easier and not as messy.

I place a rag over the coolant hose down by the drain bolt so it blocks the coolant when it drains out. Then I remove the drain bolt (a little coolant will come out then stop until you remove the rad cap). Next, slowly open the rad cap to control the coolant as it starts to drain . You want to get the rag wet so it gets weighted down by the coolant and doesn't just blow the rag aside (trust me on this one, I know what I'm talking about on this point). After the rag gets weighted down quickly remove the cap and place your hand or something else over the opening to block it off. This will cause a suction in your coolant tank siphoning the coolant out and at the same time slow down the coolant as it drains from the drain port.

Also, don't know what you meant by the going a little overboard on the FJRTECH page, but it took two flushes before the water came out slightly green and one more for me to feel good about getting all the old coolant out.

I use the YamaCool coolant. That way there's no question about there being the right additives for the bike. Yea, its more expensive, but I don't want to take the chance on an aluminum engine?

 

[audiowize]

Zerex Asian/Pentafrost A4 (Toyota Pink) or Pentafrost A3 (Honda blue) coolants are good choices that aren't too tough to find.

There are a lot of OCD inspired processes devised for this particular piece of maintenance.

 

[Ozzy]

Well, thanks to every ones input and help, I completed the job. One difference for next time is I won't take all the fairings off again. There is a much simpler way to do this by removing three screws and a compression grommet to get to the rad cap. Bleeder screw and and overflow canister are easy enough to get to. I guess one good advantage was I replaced a lower hose which was a plus.

Another big bonus was I fixed an after market head light modulator problem that wasn't working correctly from the last owner, as well as fix the garage door opener on my handle bar switch which was custom installed. I never could figure out what the little red button was until I ask. Turns out the controller was hidden under the front left cowling which I was able to find and repair by installing a new battery. (who new). Now I can just drive up, hit the red button and Wallah, garage door opens.

Thanks again for all the input, I'm amazed at all the help and support. Hope I can pay it forward. I ended up using OEM brand product at Canadian Tire specially formulated for Honda's Acura's and Subaru's. They have about 6 formulations, be sure to choose the one for Honda with aluminum engine. It is the same as the Honda brand and same blue color with no silicate. I'm positive it's the same product with different label. $19 for 3.78L bottle, used about 4/5ths.

Thanks again folks

Cheers

 

[chazglenn3]

I installed a new thermostat in my 2008 today to fix a leak where the thermostat housing joins together (the seal is on the thermostat). I went to my local Honda car dealer and bought a gallon of the Honda Type 2 coolant...the blue stuff. I have been using this for years on my bikes. It was $19 but I like using it. It comes pre-mixed.