90 degree valve stems

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^^Sometimes they do, but think about the way the force is exerted. On the outside, the stick-ons are pressed into the rim at speed. If the weight is stuck to the rim, inside the tire, the force pulls the weight away from the rimrim surface. I wouldn't stick one inside.
Thank you. That's what I was trying to say, but couldn't make the words work. ;)

 
Yabut I can't bling out a color-less bike.
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Still, I was thinking along the same lines. Maybe an excuse to use my 20% off coupon and put something like this on the shelf.
Those are kind of cool! I know that having mine rotated forward is a pain as getting the Garmin Sensor off is a bit of a pain then trying to get the air chuck on is awkward.
I have those - they are seriously heavy and take a lot of weight to balance....
I was kinda worried about this.

Wonder how many of you balance the wheels without tires, add the weight to the inside and then rebalance with tires?
I've never heard of adding weight inside. How would you do that? With stick-on weights it seems they'd just sling off then bounce around in the tire until removed.
They don't sling off on the outside do they?
If applied properly, no. Maybe I misunderstood your post "add the weight to the inside." Did you mean inside the tire?

Inside on the rim, before mounting the tire. Taped and or epoxied in place in the center. I will be doing this IF I see a big enough weight difference using the T-stems that I now have.

I bought two pair and will be painting them both black.

I intend to use one pair and will offer up the other pair here for $24.00.

 
Inside on the rim, before mounting the tire. Taped and or epoxied in place in the center. I will be doing this IF I see a big enough weight difference using the T-stems that I now have.

I bought two pair and will be painting them both black.

I intend to use one pair and will offer up the other pair here for $24.00.
Considering the centrifugal force I can't think of a tape I'd trust. Epoxy maybe. But if I were going to balance the wheel by itself I'd much prefer RaYzerman19's method. Maybe that's just me.

But I'm having trouble seeing the advantage of balancing the wheel then the tire. If the tire is mounted with the marked light spot at the known heavy spot on the wheel it'd take less weight overall. Of course, with wheels as heavy as ours, maybe it doesn't matter.

 
Inside on the rim, before mounting the tire. Taped and or epoxied in place in the center. I will be doing this IF I see a big enough weight difference using the T-stems that I now have.

I bought two pair and will be painting them both black.

I intend to use one pair and will offer up the other pair here for $24.00.
Considering the centrifugal force I can't think of a tape I'd trust. Epoxy maybe. But if I were going to balance the wheel by itself I'd much prefer RaYzerman19's method. Maybe that's just me.

But I'm having trouble seeing the advantage of balancing the wheel then the tire. If the tire is mounted with the marked light spot at the known heavy spot on the wheel it'd take less weight overall. Of course, with wheels as heavy as ours, maybe it doesn't matter.
From what I've been told by tire two manufactures, Michelin and Avon, is that little red or yellow dot is nothing more than an inspection mark. It has nothing to do with being a light or heavy spot on the tire.

 
That may be why the set of PR 4's we just installed had no dot. We were informed the bar code was the heavy spot on a Michelin. It really did not matter we through in the counteract beads

 
Inside on the rim, before mounting the tire. Taped and or epoxied in place in the center. I will be doing this IF I see a big enough weight difference using the T-stems that I now have.

I bought two pair and will be painting them both black.

I intend to use one pair and will offer up the other pair here for $24.00.
Considering the centrifugal force I can't think of a tape I'd trust. Epoxy maybe. But if I were going to balance the wheel by itself I'd much prefer RaYzerman19's method. Maybe that's just me.

But I'm having trouble seeing the advantage of balancing the wheel then the tire. If the tire is mounted with the marked light spot at the known heavy spot on the wheel it'd take less weight overall. Of course, with wheels as heavy as ours, maybe it doesn't matter.
From what I've been told by tire two manufactures, Michelin and Avon, is that little red or yellow dot is nothing more than an inspection mark. It has nothing to do with being a light or heavy spot on the tire.
That may be why the set of PR 4's we just installed had no dot. We were informed the bar code was the heavy spot on a Michelin. It really did not matter we through in the counteract beads
Yeah. I've used one set of PR4s and it had no dots. I wondered if the tires are so close now it doesn't matter much anymore. Even so, it just seems that balancing the wheel, putting a tire on it, then balancing again would result in needing more total weight. I definitely see the advantage if using beads.

But what the heck? :)

 
In theory, balancing the wheel separately should result in less total weight or best chance at it. Maybe. If you remove all weights then balance wheel and tire, you should get same except you spend a whole lot more time trying to figure out where and how much IMHO. Faster if you have the wheel pre-balanced, then likely you use little or nothing to balance the tire.

 
In theory, balancing the wheel separately should result in less total weight or best chance at it. Maybe. If you remove all weights then balance wheel and tire, you should get same except you spend a whole lot more time trying to figure out where and how much IMHO. Faster if you have the wheel pre-balanced, then likely you use little or nothing to balance the tire.
It would seem that, for example, if you have a wheel 20 grams off, it'd take 20 grams to balance it. Then if you add a tire that's, say, 10 grams off, you'd need another 10 to balance that. But if you put them together and balance them as a single unit, 30 grams is the most it'd take. And if the heavy point of the tire happens to offset the heavy point of the wheel, you'd need less -- as little as 10 grams.

However, I sometimes add weight only to find a different heavy spot. Hmmm.... I actually mounted and balanced four tires in the last couple of days -- both bikes just happened to need tires at the same time. So it'll be a while but I may try your suggestion next time.

 
So why not locate the heavy (or light) point on the rim, then see where the balance turns out with a new tire, rotating as necessary to minimize balance weight? Prior to setting the bead, of course, so it won't be perfectly accurate, but might well be close.

 
So why not locate the heavy (or light) point on the rim, then see where the balance turns out with a new tire, rotating as necessary to minimize balance weight? Prior to setting the bead, of course, so it won't be perfectly accurate, but might well be close.
I haven't found a tire yet that you're able to spin on the rim once both beads are in. When a tire (w/o a balance dot) takes an excessive amount of weight (after setting the beads), we've broken both, dismounted one bead and spun the tire 180 on the rim. Sometimes it helps...sometimes not.

It all depends on how much special lubricant (beer) is available to chase minimum weight!

YMMV

--G

 
What I did was: I balanced the rim but I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the weights on the rim. Then I put the tire on the rim with only 1 bead and find the heavy spot. Then I turned the heavy spot of the tire to the location of the temporary weights of the rim. Remove the temporary weight and balance the tire.

 
I pay my local Honda dealer to do it. Tire replacement,disposal, "shop fee", balance, etc. is a whopping $25 whether I buy the tire from him or not. Wheel is removed by me and gets a good cleaning prior to going to him. They really appreciate that part. When I showed up with a set of 90* stems he installed them for free.

 
I pay my local Honda dealer to do it. Tire replacement,disposal, "shop fee", balance, etc. is a whopping $25 whether I buy the tire from him or not. Wheel is removed by me and gets a good cleaning prior to going to him. They really appreciate that part. When I showed up with a set of 90* stems he installed them for free.
Cherish that place. I wouldn't be surprised if some of my local shops started charging $25 just to give an estimate on a tire change.

Then again, in all fairness, cost of running a business around here is rather stifling.

 
I pay my local Honda dealer to do it. Tire replacement,disposal, "shop fee", balance, etc. is a whopping $25 whether I buy the tire from him or not. Wheel is removed by me and gets a good cleaning prior to going to him. They really appreciate that part. When I showed up with a set of 90* stems he installed them for free.
Cherish that place. I wouldn't be surprised if some of my local shops started charging $25 just to give an estimate on a tire change.

Then again, in all fairness, cost of running a business around here is rather stifling.
Why? Don't you know "a guy who knows a guy?"

I do...

https://bikeeffects.com/

 
I pay my local Honda dealer to do it. Tire replacement,disposal, "shop fee", balance, etc. is a whopping $25 whether I buy the tire from him or not. Wheel is removed by me and gets a good cleaning prior to going to him. They really appreciate that part. When I showed up with a set of 90* stems he installed them for free.
Cherish that place. I wouldn't be surprised if some of my local shops started charging $25 just to give an estimate on a tire change.

Then again, in all fairness, cost of running a business around here is rather stifling.
I don't know that I'd do them for $25 a wheel. ;)

Our local Cycle Gear is reasonable on mounting and balancing if I buy them there, but the last time a friend bought tires there for his 'wing, they were around $100 higher for the tires than he could buy them online. He hadn't asked the price beforehand because they'd always been reasonable. When he asked "Are you sure on that pricing?" the guy just mumbled "We've gone up a little on tires."

He's bought them online since and has them shipped to me, and we just do them here. That back Goldwing tire is a #$%^&*. Uh, sorry .... I meant to say "terribly difficult."
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I pay my local Honda dealer to do it. Tire replacement,disposal, "shop fee", balance, etc. is a whopping $25 whether I buy the tire from him or not. Wheel is removed by me and gets a good cleaning prior to going to him. They really appreciate that part. When I showed up with a set of 90* stems he installed them for free.
Cherish that place. I wouldn't be surprised if some of my local shops started charging $25 just to give an estimate on a tire change.

Then again, in all fairness, cost of running a business around here is rather stifling.
Actually, when I visited him last month for a rear tire replacement I couldn't help but bitch a little. His price went up 2 whole dollars from last year!! Son of a .....
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.

 
I purchased the 83 degree valves, from the original post, just got them and getting ready to install......

Question : the rubber formed-ring seal seems like it installs from the outside of the wheel and only the one nut holds the valve in place from the inside.

Anyone had any leak issues ?

Anyone used a lock tight to secure the nut on the inside?

Anyone added any additional rubber oring on the inside between the nut and the wheel ?

Hate to mount new tire and find out i have to frequently use this thing to fill my tires, or worse....
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Thanks to all.

 
@Mike K - You are correct about the seal placement. I remember thinking that was counter-intuitive place for it as well. It it was from the inside the air pressure would help seal it.

You should use a drop of loctite on the threads for the nut that goes on from the inside, and there is a torque spec for it as well. Never had any air leaks attributable to these valves, and they make checking and filling a lot easier.

Michelin tires do not have any balance marks and the bar code is NOT of any particular significance to the tire balance. Michelin's position is that their moto tires are so close to perfect they don't bother marking them for balance.

But I do use the barcode when mounting and balancing Michelins as a reference mark. I have previously tested the balance of each bare wheel and marked on the inside of the rim how much weight it took and where. On the hub of the wheel I have a mark I can see with a tire on the rim and the rim off the bike for the location of that light spot. I (arbitrarily) mount the Michelin tires with the bar code opposite the known light spot on the wheel, inflate the tire fully, and then balance the wheel and tire together. If the amount of weight required is less than the amount it takes to balance the bare wheel, I leave it as is. If it is significantly more, and on the side of the wheel that the wheel is marked light, I can break the beads, rotate the tire 180 degrees, reinflate and rebalance. But it seldom comes to that because the amount of weight required is usually not much more or less than the bare wheel imbalance.

 
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