AE Walk Through.
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08'Bullet
Member
I have a 4 week old 08' AE....I love it! Just a couple of things to remember, when you turn the ignition switch on in order to use the thumb shifter you have to engage the electronic button on the left handle bar. That tells the computer you will be shifting from the thumb lever instead of using the traditional left foot lever. You can use the foot lever if you want to but that kinda defeats the idea on the clutchless electric shift.
Second thing to remember is when you come to a stop at a light, dont roll the throttle because if you do YOU WILL GO FORWARD! The motor and transmission is still slaved to each other, it's not like a standard bike is.
Second thing to remember is when you come to a stop at a light, dont roll the throttle because if you do YOU WILL GO FORWARD! The motor and transmission is still slaved to each other, it's not like a standard bike is.
Wild72
Keep the dream alive: Hit the snooze button.
Two things spring to mind:
Make an early appointment at an empty parking lot and practice slow speed moves. The standard throttle tube on the AE can be a little snatchy at low speed. I find a lttle pressure on the rear brake lever helps to smooth it out, but you will want to install the G2 throttle tube and adjust the slack on the control cables for best results.
Beware of the horn button which is very close to the thumb shifter, and count the number of times you honk the horn instead of performing a downshift!!! I have taken to using only my forefinger for both up and downshifts, and only using the forward part of the shifter for both. Sort of using the pad of the finger to pull back on the shifter for upshifts, and the fingernail to push the shifter forward for downshifts. Probably sounds more difficult than it really is, and it doesn't take long for this method to become second nature.
Congratulations and enjoy a great ride.
Make an early appointment at an empty parking lot and practice slow speed moves. The standard throttle tube on the AE can be a little snatchy at low speed. I find a lttle pressure on the rear brake lever helps to smooth it out, but you will want to install the G2 throttle tube and adjust the slack on the control cables for best results.
Beware of the horn button which is very close to the thumb shifter, and count the number of times you honk the horn instead of performing a downshift!!! I have taken to using only my forefinger for both up and downshifts, and only using the forward part of the shifter for both. Sort of using the pad of the finger to pull back on the shifter for upshifts, and the fingernail to push the shifter forward for downshifts. Probably sounds more difficult than it really is, and it doesn't take long for this method to become second nature.
Congratulations and enjoy a great ride.
JoBu
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Just to add a couple of things. Like most bikes, you won't be able to engage the tranny with the sidestand down. Also, I have found that using my index finger for upshifting as well as downshifting is more simple than trying to use my thumb (see horn comment above). 
The lever for the index finger shifting is far enough from the grip that you can easily slide your index finger behind the lever and flick it forward for a downshift.
As Wild72 mentioned, the throttle can be snatchy, so definitely find a place you can practice launching the bike as well as slow speed handling. Try draggin the rear brake (yea, they are linked, but it still works) while making U-turns and other tight, low-speed manuevers.
It is quite different, but you should aclimate to it fairly quickly. Best of luck.
Cheers,
Joe
The lever for the index finger shifting is far enough from the grip that you can easily slide your index finger behind the lever and flick it forward for a downshift.As Wild72 mentioned, the throttle can be snatchy, so definitely find a place you can practice launching the bike as well as slow speed handling. Try draggin the rear brake (yea, they are linked, but it still works) while making U-turns and other tight, low-speed manuevers.
It is quite different, but you should aclimate to it fairly quickly. Best of luck.
Cheers,
Joe
I just picked up my '07 AE yesterday, so my exerience is limited, but all comments above are right on the money. The comment/instruction that helped me most was using the forefinger for both up shifting and down shifting. This avoids the horn button completely...
Enjoy your new ride.
Enjoy your new ride.
sonicspeed
Tennessee Volunteer
i got my 07 ae last august and waited till this week to install the G2. IMO add the G2 now, don't wait
ionbeam
2 FUN
If you are coming off of a domestic cruiser please resist the urge to blit the throttle or rev the engine at traffic lights hno-smiley:
hno-smiley:
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Dale Franks
Well-known member
STARTING OFF - The YCC-S clutch will hit the friction point at somewhere between 1500 and 2500 RPM, depending on how quickly you are rolling on the throttle. If you roll on slowly, you can catch it at the friction point for slow-speed maneuvering. The throttle can be snatchy--although this is apparently more of a problem for the '06 and '07 models than the '08--so trail braking to restrain surging is important.
SHIFTING - Upshift with the finger lever. Downshift with the foot shifter. Downshifting with the finger lever, whether you use your forefinger or thumb, isn't error-free, and is always an opportunity for fumbling. Kicking the foot pedal is fool-proof. Great for passing, too. Roll the throttle, kick the lever, and whooosh! you're gone.
SLOWING DOWN - The FJR AE will try to kill you in parking lots, if you let it. Here's the one big thing to look for. When you find your space, and you turn into it, be sure that you are giving it enough throttle and trail-brake. 'Cause if you don't, what will happen is you'll turn the handlebars, lean her over a little bit, and when you get halfway through the turn, the RPMs will drop low enough for the YCC-S to engage, and all your power to the rear wheel will evaporate at the apex of the turn. You will then have to put your foot down pretty darned fast, or you and your FJR will assume the horizontal rest position.
STOP LIGHTS - Do not check out the chicks in the car next to you, and roll on your throttle to catch their attention with your FJR's throaty roar. What will catch their attention instead, will be you shooting into cross-traffic in the middle of the intersection, and dying a horrific death.
THROTTLE TUBE/CAM - People who tell you to get the G2 Ergo throttle tube and cam are not just shining you on. It costs 60 bucks. If the bike doesn't already have it, then buy it now. Go straight to the G2 web site right now, and buy the AE model FJR Fix. The throttle on the '06 is snatchy, and at slow speeds, hitting the throttle at the apex of a turn, and other situations, occasionally that throttle is gonna snatch like a sonuvabitch, and it will scare the shite out of you. Avoind this. Buy the G2 Throttle cam, and take the half-hour to install it.
SHIFTING - Upshift with the finger lever. Downshift with the foot shifter. Downshifting with the finger lever, whether you use your forefinger or thumb, isn't error-free, and is always an opportunity for fumbling. Kicking the foot pedal is fool-proof. Great for passing, too. Roll the throttle, kick the lever, and whooosh! you're gone.
SLOWING DOWN - The FJR AE will try to kill you in parking lots, if you let it. Here's the one big thing to look for. When you find your space, and you turn into it, be sure that you are giving it enough throttle and trail-brake. 'Cause if you don't, what will happen is you'll turn the handlebars, lean her over a little bit, and when you get halfway through the turn, the RPMs will drop low enough for the YCC-S to engage, and all your power to the rear wheel will evaporate at the apex of the turn. You will then have to put your foot down pretty darned fast, or you and your FJR will assume the horizontal rest position.
STOP LIGHTS - Do not check out the chicks in the car next to you, and roll on your throttle to catch their attention with your FJR's throaty roar. What will catch their attention instead, will be you shooting into cross-traffic in the middle of the intersection, and dying a horrific death.
THROTTLE TUBE/CAM - People who tell you to get the G2 Ergo throttle tube and cam are not just shining you on. It costs 60 bucks. If the bike doesn't already have it, then buy it now. Go straight to the G2 web site right now, and buy the AE model FJR Fix. The throttle on the '06 is snatchy, and at slow speeds, hitting the throttle at the apex of a turn, and other situations, occasionally that throttle is gonna snatch like a sonuvabitch, and it will scare the shite out of you. Avoind this. Buy the G2 Throttle cam, and take the half-hour to install it.
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ARFJR
Well-known member
If you shift into neutral at red lights, remember that the bike will not shift into gear unless the engine has been at idle for a second or two.
Remember to "blip" the throttle a bit when shifting between the first three gears to prevent the computer from slipping the clutch.
Personally, I found that after hitting the horn several times, my thumb found the shift button on it's own.
Remember to "blip" the throttle a bit when shifting between the first three gears to prevent the computer from slipping the clutch.
Personally, I found that after hitting the horn several times, my thumb found the shift button on it's own.
Dale Franks
Well-known member
Pretty much. After doing it myself, I can give you the easiest way to do it.
1. Pick up some WD40 and a can of compressed air at Office Depot.
2. Remove the throttle housing.
3. Remove the bar end.
4. Remove the throttle cables from the stock tube.
4. Pull the grip and tube off the handlebar.
4a. Careful, the grip is hardwired to the bike due to the heating elements. You might need to feed some extra cable through the bars to give you enough cable slack to remove the grip/tube.
4b. Remember the position if the grip, i.e., the position where the heating cable meets the grip. You'll need to ensure the grip goes back into that same position, so that the heating cable doesn't bind or stretch as you twist the throttle.
5. Use the WD-40 and/or compressed air to jet into the space between the tube and grip to loosen and remove the tube.
6. Spritz some WD-40 on the G2 tube, and work the grip back on it.
7. Put the new tube/grip back on the handlebar.
8. Adjust the rotation of the grip, so that the heating cable is located properly, re item 4B above.
9. Hook up the throttle cables. Their locations are obvious.
10. Re-assemble the throttle housing.
10a. The throttle cables have little plastic dealies that insert into little slots on each half of the assembly. The heating cable has it's own little hole, with a rubber gasket on the cable to weather-proof it. You gotta align all these bits for the housing to snap back together.
11. Re-attach the bar end.
1. Pick up some WD40 and a can of compressed air at Office Depot.
2. Remove the throttle housing.
3. Remove the bar end.
4. Remove the throttle cables from the stock tube.
4. Pull the grip and tube off the handlebar.
4a. Careful, the grip is hardwired to the bike due to the heating elements. You might need to feed some extra cable through the bars to give you enough cable slack to remove the grip/tube.
4b. Remember the position if the grip, i.e., the position where the heating cable meets the grip. You'll need to ensure the grip goes back into that same position, so that the heating cable doesn't bind or stretch as you twist the throttle.
5. Use the WD-40 and/or compressed air to jet into the space between the tube and grip to loosen and remove the tube.
6. Spritz some WD-40 on the G2 tube, and work the grip back on it.
7. Put the new tube/grip back on the handlebar.
8. Adjust the rotation of the grip, so that the heating cable is located properly, re item 4B above.
9. Hook up the throttle cables. Their locations are obvious.
10. Re-assemble the throttle housing.
10a. The throttle cables have little plastic dealies that insert into little slots on each half of the assembly. The heating cable has it's own little hole, with a rubber gasket on the cable to weather-proof it. You gotta align all these bits for the housing to snap back together.
11. Re-attach the bar end.
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Rondo777
Well-known member
Just like Dale explained plus after the installation adjust all of the slack out of the Throttle cable. This helps with the jerky throttle as well. Just follow the cable down from the throttle grip, the adjustment is just a couple of inches down along the cable. I managed to avoid using the WD-40, the air was enough to easily get the grip both on and off, so if you can avoid using it then do so.
DailyCommuter
Illegitimi Non Carborundum
I don't know why buy that made me really giggle a lot! Reminds me of the guy in Wild Hogs!!
STOP LIGHTS - Do not check out the chicks in the car next to you, and roll on your throttle to catch their attention with your FJR's throaty roar. What will catch their attention instead, will be you shooting into cross-traffic in the middle of the intersection, and dying a horrific death
STOP LIGHTS - Do not check out the chicks in the car next to you, and roll on your throttle to catch their attention with your FJR's throaty roar. What will catch their attention instead, will be you shooting into cross-traffic in the middle of the intersection, and dying a horrific death
JoBu
Well-known member
- Joined
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Concur with everything Dale said with the exception of downshifting with the finger lever. Not only have I never had an issue, but I find the downshifts are smoother/quicker than the upshifts. Dale, what do you mean by the downshifts aren't "error-free"? :dntknw: Perhaps this is an issue with your bike or maybe my bike has the issue and nails it perfect each and every time. I'm quite curious...
Cheers,
Joe
PS. Thanks for adding the step by step instructions for the G2 install.
Flyguy
Well-known member
I don't think the directive to not "blip" the throttle at stoplights is possible if you are an experienced rider. It's in your blood, or at least your wrist and will be for some time. You will blip.
When approaching a stop downshif fully through the gears and end in NEUTRAL. No gliding in 4th and then stepping down while stopped. This manuever is the domain of experienced AE riders only and they really shouldn't do it either. Anyway, it saves brakes and frustration to properly downshift. When acclimating only put the bike in 1st when getting ready to launch. That way you are tuned in to being "in gear". This will inevitably result in an unnitended neutral rev but that is much better than the unintended launch.
Do - G2
Do - throttle slack adjust.
Do - throttle spring unwind (if spring tension is excessive)
Optional - PCIII - highly recommended
Then go and enjoy the most remakable bike anywhere.
Enjoy your AE!
When approaching a stop downshif fully through the gears and end in NEUTRAL. No gliding in 4th and then stepping down while stopped. This manuever is the domain of experienced AE riders only and they really shouldn't do it either. Anyway, it saves brakes and frustration to properly downshift. When acclimating only put the bike in 1st when getting ready to launch. That way you are tuned in to being "in gear". This will inevitably result in an unnitended neutral rev but that is much better than the unintended launch.
Do - G2
Do - throttle slack adjust.
Do - throttle spring unwind (if spring tension is excessive)
Optional - PCIII - highly recommended
Then go and enjoy the most remakable bike anywhere.
Enjoy your AE!
Art FJR
Well-known member
+1 on the first trip to the Parking lot. The low speed stuff is the only part that is really different on the AE. In this time, pay attention to when the clutch engages and also disengages. You can stay in first gear the whole time.
You might already have the G2 installed. Remove the bar end and look at the throttle tube. The tube on my 07 AE was white plastic. The G2 is aluminum.
Hairspray was a good lubricant when reinstalling the grip. It allowed me to get everything in position easily.
Another note, the heater element is embedded in the grip so it is harder to damage if you have difficulty getting the grip loose. It is not glued to the tube with the grip over top of it.
And of course, sliders are not an option. If you don't have them already, you might as well order some of those also. They are the easiest install of any farkle out there.
Art
You might already have the G2 installed. Remove the bar end and look at the throttle tube. The tube on my 07 AE was white plastic. The G2 is aluminum.
Hairspray was a good lubricant when reinstalling the grip. It allowed me to get everything in position easily.
Another note, the heater element is embedded in the grip so it is harder to damage if you have difficulty getting the grip loose. It is not glued to the tube with the grip over top of it.
And of course, sliders are not an option. If you don't have them already, you might as well order some of those also. They are the easiest install of any farkle out there.
Art
Spook
Well-known member
DailyCommuter
Illegitimi Non Carborundum
I disaggree strongly! I wouldn't sit in neutral at a stop light. If you're sitting there and some cager is screeching his brakes behind you, you will not want to waste a second to shift into first, hit the gas and move fast! Other than that everything else is good. I upshudy with the finger and downshuft with the foot.
Spook
Well-known member
yup right into the side of the 18 wheeler that is crossing in front of you. When what you described happens you have no good choices. I have been on bikes since 1968 and the only thinig I have not had yes is someone trying to ass end me.
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