Anyone near SC care to lend a hand?

[default]

So, Ive got the 06 and bought it more or less sight unseen (rode down on one bike, traded during a tropical storm, rode back home 400 miles the next day), and there are some things I wasnt sure about at first. I DONT like sport bikes (however this thing is comfortable) I liked traction control (havent had a need for that...yet) and it was a little unwieldy for my coming from a dual sport background (gettin used to that more and more)

But no one near me seems to know anything about these bikes, and Im tired of getting the run around from dealers. Im almost in love with this thing, but Im worried there may be some underlying issues I cant see. Id love to meet up with someone that wouldnt mind going over the bike and helping ID anything that need be addressed, even better if this someone could be bribed to help fix any issues.

Last night, when I checked the codes (dealer said they didnt have the right computer dongle...) I got 12, 14 & 30. 30 I knew would be there, but the other 2 surprised me. Im thinking the PO has so much crap wired in theres a ground issue someplace. I also have a solid on ABS light

If anyone is near Charleston SC and has time, Id love to chat with you! I checked the meet up threads and all I saw was one in April that was canceled.

(also, not sure if posted in the right place, but please move it if not)

 

[ionbeam]

12 is the crank position sensor, perhaps the wire got pinched when someone did a valve check? If it's truly a bad or disconnected sensor the engine will typically run poorly.

14 is intake air pressure sensor, this is a common false code

30 the motorcycle has tipped over, this is a common true code

The codes are not likely to be related to ground harness issues, they use ECU grounding. Reset the codes and see if any comes back.

A solid ABS light is almost always an issue related to the front and/or rear ABS sensor on the wheels. Check the sensors to be ~1.2k ohms and installed in the sensor rings correctly. The wheel sensor rings are keyed and shouldn't rotate. The error light comes on solid if an incorrect signal is detected when the motorcycle first moves. Check the connectors and the condition of the sensor wires.

 

[default]

12 is the crank position sensor, perhaps the wire got pinched when someone did a valve check? If it's truly a bad or disconnected sensor the engine will typically run poorly.14 is intake air pressure sensor, this is a common false code

30 the motorcycle has tipped over, this is a common true code

The codes are not likely to be related to ground harness issues, they use ECU grounding. Reset the codes and see if any comes back.

A solid ABS light is almost always an issue related to the front and/or rear ABS sensor on the wheels. Check the sensors to be ~1.2k ohms and installed in the sensor rings correctly. The wheel sensor rings are keyed and shouldn't rotate. The error light comes on solid if an incorrect signal is detected when the motorcycle first moves. Check the connectors and the condition of the sensor wires.

I looked up the codes, figured 30 would be there since he said someone had dropped it. bike seems to run fine for me, but again, i have nothing to compare it to.

the ABS light is never not on. key gets turned, its on. I know the front ring was installed wrong somehow, and the dealer straightened it out but i have no way to test it unfortunately.

 

[default]

just went and checked again, cleared codes lastnight before a brief ride, still no codes today, so PROGRESS!

 

[Uncle Hud]

Despite the bike being 10 years old, FJRs have a well-deserved reputation for being tough and reliable. Here are three points from me, a complete non-mechanic:

1) Put on 3,000 more miles, riding to/in places where you feel confident about cracking on a little more throttle than usual,

2) Make no final judgements until you see how she performs with brand-new tires, and

3) Attend one of griff's Tech Days (in Greer) for advice and comparison with other FJRs.

It took me a few months to get comfortable with my FJR, because it was very different from the bikes in my past. Now? It would take a very special motorbike to displace my FJR.

 

[default]

I think I should clarify. I REALLY like the bike. If anything was going to convert me, it would be this one. HOWEVER, I feel like I did not do enough research before hand (aside from "dont get a first gen") and in this case, I was in need of the money offered with the trade or Id have walked away more than likely. My lack of foreknowledge and the POs seeming mechanical ineptitude have me worried

Basically what Im hoping will happen is that someone can tell me im not riding a time bomb and this bike is damn close to mechanically solid as a bike of its age and milage can be.

 

[Walter]

Well number 1 welcome to the 06 club .... cobalt blue is SEXY. Second these bikes have a reputation of being good tough bikes. The fault codes your showing outside of the abs one dont sound bad and the ultimate test is like ion eluded to if shes running smooth and rides nice then shes most likely fine. Hopefully we will see ya at a tech day or a RTE some day.

 

[ionbeam]

...research before hand (aside from "dont get a first gen")...

I'd say that a '04 & '05 Gen I were the best years until the late Gen II and the '13 and up.

 

[Uncle Hud]

Walter posted: Well number 1 welcome to the 06 club .... cobalt blue is SEXY. Second these bikes have a reputation of being good tough bikes. The fault codes your showing outside of the abs one dont sound bad and the ultimate test is like ion eluded to if shes running smooth and rides nice then shes most likely fine. Hopefully we will see ya at a tech day or a RTE some day.

... or, default, you could post your own RTE (Folly Beach used to have a lot of bikers) and see who shows up! Tech Day if you have space and tools.

 

[RaYzerman19]

The ABS rings on FJR's prior to '08 were pressed into the wheel. Not likely they would come loose. Check the sensors that they are not corroded, clean them up and put a little grease around them to keep the corrosion down. Careful not to break the sensors if they are corroded in the adapters.. Also check out the ABS check procedure posted up by Ionbeam https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/136000-test-and-maintain-your-abs-system/ Cycling the ABS is warranted as this version needs brake fluid to be flushed and activating the ABS will help clear the normally unused ABS fluid circuit. Maybe needs a second bleed after that to clear out old fluid. A solid ABS just means you have full braking but no ABS.

There will likely be a tech day somewhere if Griff post up one for the fall..... October??

 

[wheatonFJR]

The ABS rings on FJR's prior to '08 were pressed into the wheel. Not likely they would come loose. Check the sensors that they are not corroded, clean them up and put a little grease around them to keep the corrosion down. Careful not to break the sensors if they are corroded in the adapters.. Also check out the ABS check procedure posted up by Ionbeam https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/136000-test-and-maintain-your-abs-system/ Cycling the ABS is warranted as this version needs brake fluid to be flushed and activating the ABS will help clear the normally unused ABS fluid circuit. Maybe needs a second bleed after that to clear out old fluid. A solid ABS just means you have full braking but no ABS.
There will likely be a tech day somewhere if Griff post up one for the fall..... October??

Ray, you coming to Griff's TechDay? It's "safe" for all y'all to head on down.

 

[RaYzerman19]

The ABS rings on FJR's prior to '08 were pressed into the wheel. Not likely they would come loose. Check the sensors that they are not corroded, clean them up and put a little grease around them to keep the corrosion down. Careful not to break the sensors if they are corroded in the adapters.. Also check out the ABS check procedure posted up by Ionbeam https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/136000-test-and-maintain-your-abs-system/ Cycling the ABS is warranted as this version needs brake fluid to be flushed and activating the ABS will help clear the normally unused ABS fluid circuit. Maybe needs a second bleed after that to clear out old fluid. A solid ABS just means you have full braking but no ABS.
There will likely be a tech day somewhere if Griff post up one for the fall..... October??

Ray, you coming to Griff's TechDay? It's "safe" for all y'all to head on down.

Man, rumours travel fast........... once I found out it was 'safe' I kinda mentioned that I indeed just might.

 

[griff]

Yep, another tech(wreck) session in SC this fall - probably in October. Dates TBD. Got a presidential pardon to allow Ray to come way south into the US. This time we will do valve checks (at least mine), fork fluid change (at least my ES forks). I'll start a new thread for people to post on.