Around the World in 80 Days (well, the US in 44-sort of)

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Honey on grits is a felony in North Carolina. Glad you abstained.

Great RR.

 
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Thanks for the comments, all y'all (see how the South gets to you?).

All that nasty weather was on Friday, but Saturday was beautiful--but cold again. The visibility on the Parkway was almost unlimited, and the views spectacular both east and west. The road just follows the ridge, as the name implies, for the whole length of the range. Toward the south end, I pulled up at a visitor center on top of Mt. Mitchell, a place called Craggy Gardens. Boy, it was cold. So I asked inside: “how cold?” It was 27 degrees!

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It was time for the balaclava.

Got off for lunch in Asheville, a pretty hip college town kind of place. Portlandia East. I’d have liked to explore, but I wanted to slay that Dragon. Made it to Robbinsville, where I found a very interesting place to stay at “The Simple Life Campground and Cabins,” with the cabins lined up straight up the side of a steep hill where I got a cabin the size of a jail cell for $27. Mine was called “The Bear’s Den,” with paintings and statues of bears, stuffed bears, and a bear-design bedspread. Cute bears, too, with lace curtains and frills all over. Owner’s wife had interior decorator dreams. But it was clean and just fine, with electricity, wi-fi, a good clean bathroom with showers up the hill—all you needed was a sleeping bag. It even had an air conditioner in the window, though a heater would have been much more welcome this cold night. I still give it three raised thumbs. By the way, what I said before about not bringing camping gear on future long rides—I now modify to say I’ll bring the few things I’d need to stay in cabins like this one—KOA-style places. I like them.

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The Simple LIfe--straight up the side of a steep hill

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This is not the outhouse. This is my cabin.

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Inside was surprising!

Next day, the Dragon. To be continued . . .

 
The next morning--another beautiful day--I headed out for . . . the Dragon. Have to admit, I had kind of an attitude about that road. 11 miles? Hah. We’re pretty proud of our roads around here. But I arrived at the “Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort” (see a pattern?) in the morning and saw about 50 motorcycles in the parking lot, plus a bunch of hot-looking sports cars ready for their run. I took a pic next to the Tree of Shame, swearing it was the closest my bike and that tree would ever be.

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I went inside the giant souvenir shop to look for a tshirt. I’d come 6,000 miles already and this was the only tshirt I bought—the power of marketing. Oozing cynicism, I took my run at those 318 curves. OK, it was fun. OK, it was really fun. It won me over. I couldn’t help really pushing through it, hanging off the bike in the curves, trying to do it right. And I had a blast. Traffic was light that early on Sunday morning. Nobody passed me or tried to, nobody held me up. No semi-trucks or formations of Harleys, just a damn fun, pretty road. Guess the reputation is deserved.

So it was with fairly high expectations that I found the Cherahola Skyway a little later. It’s got a great name, after all. Yawn. Sorry, but it was a letdown. I admit I didn’t even finish it; part of the problem was a couple of slow vehicles that couldn’t much be passed for several miles, followed by a pair of bozos running straight pipes, and then me. The speed was bad enough; the freaking noise was murder. It was pretty, but it didn’t seem much better than miles of roads nearby, or ones near here either. Anyway, it was time to roll on toward the west. My time was getting short.

I had envisioned seeing places like Key West and New Orleans, for example, and hoped to connect with folks who had offered to meet up and show me around, or even host a night’s stay. I’m sorry I couldn’t meet all the folks who offered, and want to thank them all. (A part of that was the timing of my trip vs.the timing of some gatherings I’d have loved to attend—like NAFO, EOM, and FJRay’s Reuben Run. Missed them all, and some of the folks I might have seen on the way who were attending some of those gatherings. Too bad.)

After NC and TN I just pushed for my brother’s near OKC. Made it to near Nashville after the early Dragon run, and the rest of the way the next day—for me a long day, about 670 miles. I had to go by quite a few tempting detours, darn it. The Natchez Trace Parkway, Nashville, Graceland (at least to look in through the fence). I’m seriously thinking about an all-south run now to see what I missed. Scratch one thing off the Bucket List, add another.

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I did run into this feller. Didn't have much to say.

I hated to slab so far and miss so much though. All I saw of Texas was a joint in Amarillo that had pretty authentic Texas BBQ. It certainly was a dive, if that counts. It was good to see the family again. I spent a couple days in Norman and then another push to

get to Flagstaff.

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I think my bro could get you one of those shirts if you want, Dave.
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My son only had two free days, Friday and Saturday, so that controlled my schedule. Google says 863 miles between the two cities, and after saying goodbye that morning, and needing to stop and add rain gear on the way, I ran out of daylight after 720 miles, my longest day of the trip. The morning run to Flag, at least, was pretty easy. I only pulled off I-40 to take one picture on the way.

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I had a great visit with my son, a sophomore at Northern AZ U; he’s doing great there and loves it, but he won’t be home till Christmas, so that made the visit more special to me. We took one ride together, about 50 miles east from Flag to Meteor Crater, which I found fascinating. Privately owned, I didn’t know what to expect for my $18 (!) admission, but they had a really first class museum and visitor center. It’s one of those places that you just don’t “get” till you stand up on the rim and look down inside. It’s fascinating.

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But once I left Flag, I was “smelling the barn,” and just wanted to get home. I’ve made the trip several times between there and here, or between Flag and Las Vegas, so this time I rode north toward Page, AZ, and then took a “scenic byway” (89A) over toward Kanab where SW-FOG will be, rode past the Vermillion Cliffs area, and stopped at the Mountain Meadows Massacre site in Utah, which is as understated as it could possibly be. There’s a plaque saying that it was named a historical site by the federal government “for events that occurred here,” and a wooden sign or bulletin board nearby that is . . . blank. A gravel footpath off the tiny gravel parking area leads to a memorial I did not hike a quarter mile uphill to see. It’s almost like the Utah government doesn’t really want to talk about it.

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Vermillion Cliffs

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Some parts of the Southwest are pretty empty. But hey, I was almost home. Spent one more night on the road in Caliente, NV and left early for Sacramento--one last 569 mile day. Total miles for the trip, 9,553. Here's that Spotwalla link again.

I wish the run home through the south could have made a more crooked line on the map. Maybe next trip. The PR4s that started with about 1K on them made it all the way. They show plenty of wear, but are still rideable for a little while. I won’t be waiting long for a new set, though. I got a lot of encouragement and help from lots of folks on the forum, offers of lodging if I came through near them, route help, etc. Thanks to all for that. I also relied quite a lot on “the kindness of strangers” who knew their local roads and freely offered help and advice many times, and I thank them too. And thanks for looking at a report that was darn near as long and windy as the trip.

 
Awesome report Mike! Thanks for sharing!

As you well know, you rode right past some great riding, wonderful scenery and even better hospitality in the South. I like your plan to revisit someday. So, come on back now, ya hear?
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Me too, me too!

I wannna ride the South.

My papa was from the Ozarks and I kin get the drawl right quik.

Mike, Thank for sharing. Truly a good read, well written, concise. Well done!

 
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Sorry we missed you on your flight up I-80, but well, at least I got to virtually travel along. Thanks for the RR

 
Mike, it was great to meet and ride along for the short time that we had. Wish I could have shown you some of the great roads of SE Ohio...maybe next time.

 
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Super nice of Don to copy the whole report and re-post over to his CBA site. Sent it out tonight to my whole contacts list. Thanks, dude.

 
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