I tried finding my Motion Pro instructions but I think they have been recycled (
strike 1)I went to the
Motion Pro website, looks like they do not even sell the mercury version anymore (
strike 2)
My Motion pro is setup like this:
-Holding it vertical (so the mecury doesn't fall out and kill all Californians)
-Mercury at the bottom
-4 ~equal length hoses coming out the top
-At the end of these hoses which connect to each of the cylinder TBS ports you will insert a restrictor into each hose.
-These restrictors is what dampens the vacuum to give you a smoother reading
-They have to be pushed in far enough so you can get them over the bike fittings (cylinder 1-4)
-No need for any of the 5mm or 6mm adapters, the bare hoses fit right on
In my experience, they really are not even needed (
if you are careful with the throttle)
What I mean by careful with the throttle is, when you open it to increase the RPM, DO NOT slam it shut or just let it go closed on spring pressure. Close it SLOWLY by hand, otherwise you will suck mercury from the Motion pro into your engine.
I don't say this to scare you into taking it to your dealer, it is very easy to do, just a word of caution.
Easy on the closing action of the throttle and all will be fine.
From the
Morgan Carbtune site, here is their take on restrictors
How to make the dampers
Refer to drawing opposite. In the bag with the adapters you will have received a fine bore thick wall clear plastic tube (No 1). It is about 8cm long x 5mm diameter. With a craft knife cut the thick wall tube into four roughly equal pieces. These are the four restricters (No 2). (For the 2-column the tube is about 4cm long and is cut into 2 pieces.)
Cut about 10cm (4”) off the end of each 1 metre black rubber hose. Push a restricter into the 10cm rubber hose. Now push the remaining 90cm (3ft) rubber hose onto the other side of the restricter (No 3). Do this for each hose.
The length of the rubber hose is not critical. You can make them longer by adding more hose. The restricters need to be about 90cm from the Carbtune. The longer the tube between the restricters and the Carbtune, the more the damping. The shorter, the less the damping.
The restricted part of rubber tube must go towards the engine, not the Carbtune. If the restricters are beside the Carbtune it will not be properly damped. The restricters will reduce fluctuations to acceptable levels for most bikes but some bikes may still give readings that pulsate too much even with the dampers in place. Moving the gauges very slightly off vertical will add some extra friction and damping but make sure the rods are still pulsating slightly or the readings may be affected.
The rods need to pulsate to some degree for the gauge to work properly.
Final word of advice:
When (not if) you lose one of the metal clips that hold the rubber pieces on, don't worry too much, it's not the end of the world. As long as you have the rubber caps over the fitting (being held on by friction and engine vacuum) you will be fine. Replace the metal clip only if you are really anal
Always a good idea to have a few spare rubber caps though, they can jump right out of your hand!
Part number: (list price)
895-14169-00-00 (Rubber cap) Cap $2.94 ea
8A7-14139-00-00 (metal clip) Clip, pipe $2.15 ea
At WFO this year I was helping Warchild do DocDanDC's FJR and when we lifted the tank, we had a good surprise (Anyone out there have a picture of it?? someone was standing by with a camera) His stealership had lost one of his rubber caps and made a makeshift one out of a plastic hose and a plastic fitting jammed in the end.
Not sure if it worked or not, Dan said his bike ran much better after the TBS even though it was almost right on. Could have been a slight vacuum leak from that fitting all along. Luckily a factory OEM rubber cap was kindly donated by our very own Radman! :clapping:
