Audiovox Cruise Problem

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Pappy

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It worked all year but recently it's been having problems.

Basically, when I set it - speed doesn't seem to be relevant - instead of holding speed, it very slowly drops off. The rate is something like 0.5 - 1 mph per second. It's definately not shutting off but it just can't hold a speed.

My first thought was a vacuum leak but when I pulled the tube off the resevoir it obviously is under a vacuum. Last time I did this was a day or two after I'd ridden it so it holds a vacuum really well.

Any ideas?

 
If you are sure of the vacuum supply the next highest probability is an issue with the tach signal. All other problems will either cause the control pad not to turn on or you will have a complete failure to set speed. Per the Audiovox manual, you should wait a minimum of 3 seconds from the time you turn it on until you try to set speed.

 
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I was thinking about checking that connector for corrosion. Luckily, I have the lowers off now for my Fall Uber-Polishing. I'll check it out.

Thanks for the reply.

 
I made this tap to connect to my coil to help maintain a quality signal to both the AVCC and more importantly, the coil:

CoilTee.jpg


Unless you have done some extra curricular wiring activities, the blue wire should only have two connections -- one at the coil and the other inside the canister.

I'm sure you already know that the CC won't operate on the center stand, it has to be on the road. On the center stand there is no drag on the rear wheel causing a CC error.

 
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Connecting to the wiring at the ignition coil was never a very good idea. It's simpler and better to tap onto one of the coil wires in the wiring harness at the ECU. The wires are unbundled at that location and the air intake inlet shields the wiring from the weather. This location is also very close to where most are mounting the Audiovox servo.

The problem described above is likely a vacuum issue. As the vacuum bleeds off the throttle slowly closes. One of the valves in the servo may be leaking or the vacuum hose, check valve, or vacuum canister may have a slow leak.

 
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About 6 months ago Flienlow had your exact symptoms. His problem turned out to be the 'noise suppressor' in the blue coil wire. The noise suppressor is a ~20k resistor. Flien' had cut out the resistor and spliced the wires back together. In any case it relates to you because it demonstrates that a problem on the blue wire can cause your exact symptoms.

With the engine off, ignition on the blue wire at the canister end should be +12 volts and it should be fast AC with the engine running. The AC reading may be too fast for a DMM to measure.

If not this wire it will most likely be vacuum.

 
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