Clutch Adjustment

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Ok...So lemme ask this, cuz my '07 is doing something similar.

During riding, especially if I'm really getting into the revs, the bike 'clunks' into 4th gear. A few times, I have missed the shift completely. It feels like it snaps into gear and is very noticible when it happens. BUT it only does it between 3rd and 4th. It does not do it all the time. I've asked my dealer to check it twice and they can't find it. Say it feels normal. 60-70% of the time, it is normal. Smooth.

A fluid flush with SpeedBleeders and new fluid seemed to help reduce the frequency and severity, but it still happens and seems like its getting worse again.

I cleaned my shifter a while back, and I'll try again, but this is definitely not an exterior problem. Im wondering if I shouldn't do a clutch soak and try the air bubble removal thing and another flush.

Any ideas? Why only 4th gear??
Each pair of dogs will engage slightly differently. I don't think that just because it happens to you in one particular gear set that it is necessarily buggered dogs or a bent shift fork.

Are you shifting with or without the clutch? I'm a clutch fanner on the FJR. It seems to respond better to unloading the dogs via the clutch (even when accelerating heavy) rather than trying to use just the throttle to unload them. In spirited acceleration I don't really even back off on the throttle much if at all, just fan the clutch during the shift (aka power shifting).

[edit] Since you were talking about bleeding the clutch helping I guess you do use the clutch. If so, never-mind the above.

At the risk of heading this thread towards NEPRT land, I also have been using 1/2 pint of STP at each oil change on the recco of some CBA guy out west. Get silky smooth shifts all the time*.

*except the stationary N to 1st, of course. Ker-Chunk!

 
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...2005 FJR, 55k miles...In the last few months, the shifting has gotten clunkier. Now, it is also getting hard to shift, and neutral finding is a hit-or-miss thing. Very frustrating at a light - gentle nudge times about 7 usually gets it to finally find neutral...Is it likely that the clutch plates are actually worn out?
To be clear, your problem is shifting gears, not clutch slipping or dragging? Your clutch shouldn't be worn out with normal use.

If your problem is simply hard shifting the solution is surprisingly simple. Really. The left side peg assembly and the shifter linkages need to be removed. Then the inside bolt needs to be removed from the pivot assembly, cleaned, lubed and reassembled. Note that the pivot assembly has a wave washer that has to be replaced in the correct orientation. Also note that the FSM specifies a torque that IMO is too high and flattens the washer which causes ongoing poor shifting. Some people pound the washer flat, others reduce the bolt torque. In any case this normal maintenance will fix your shifting issues. (Your right side brake pivot would love this same normal maintenance too.)

Just on the outside chance -- sometimes new boots will cause this same shifting problem until they break in or you get used to them.

Item 28 is the main bolt that needs to be removed, cleaned and lubed in addition to the rod ends. Item 29 is the wave washer. Pay close attention to the orientation and alignment of the parts because when you go to reinstall the assembly things can get confusing fast.

ShiftLinkage.jpg
I can see there are likely multiple problems to be corrected. The first one is to use Ionbeam's suggestion. Which I did. On the linkage, and in the picture he sent, on the upper left, there is a 4mm hex head bolt covered by the rubber bootie. I really tried hard to get that off, and I think I started stripping it. Gave up on that. However, in the picture, it doesn't show that the aluminum kickplate is in the way! In fact, the bolt that really needs cleaning is #28 in the picture, and that screws from the inside into the aluminum kickplate. I did take that off, clean everything, put it back together. I will say first, it was dirty, oily, greasy, and a bit of grunge in it. But it wasn't THAT bad! I went for a quick ride down the alley, and...Gears shift! Neutral is found! But it still seems to take more effort than I think it should.

My next agenda item is to try the suggestion to let any bubbles in the line work their way upward overnight. Fred W.'s suggestion, and thanks.

I also followed FJRBluesman's link to the front master cylinder on the handlebar. I ordered the set of parts marked as #1, which I certainly hope includes that bushing. It will be a week or so before it gets here.

I'll reply back again after I've done everything and let you know what has transpired!

And, one suggestion about the oil. I use Mobil 1 10w30 during the winter, 10w40 during the summer. Change it about every 3500 miles.

 
You might also try adding a 1/2 pint of STP next oil change. The ZDDP additive as been eliminated from most modern oil formulas, including synthetics, and STP Oil Treatment has a good amount of it. It is particularly beneficial in the gearbox.

 
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I also followed FJRBluesman's link to the front master cylinder on the handlebar. I ordered the set of parts marked as #1, which I certainly hope includes that bushing. It will be a week or so before it gets here.
All you needed was part #4, the brass bushing. I don't think you need to rebuild your master... :dribble: Unless nothing else works.
Good luck on all this, keep us posted.

 
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Slow service at Yamaha. But, I finally got the right part, and I went out to replace it.

Somewhere else is this string FJRBluesman suggested this link: <clutch maintenance>

So, I replaced that bushing. #4 on the picture. I also replaced #5, which actually looks just fine. Before I go on, let me say - replacing it made a difference. The tranny is still clunky, but it is obvious that it is changing gears, and disengaging the clutch. There is no more creeping forward at a rest with the clutch in. There is also a picture of FJRBluesman's bushing with a hole in it. Mine did not have a hole. But, it was certainly not ROUND! Very Oval!

I had previously bought #2, which has a bunch of parts. I had the parts so, why not put them in? I know why! I have a cute little tool just for working with circlips. And, it won't fit in that hole anywhere deep enough to reach the teenly holes in the circlip. But, to get to that, I had to take out the rubber cover that #3 fits into. And that had a hole in the side of the rubber. So, I at least replaced that. I guess sometime this weekend I'm going to be googling for some sort of circlip pliers that are a couple of inches longer than what I have.

To get to the parts, you have to take the lever off. #9. Well, now I have #9 ordered. There are two holes in the lever - one for that bushing that I replaced, and the hole it goes in is in perfect shape. The other hole is where the bolt #10 goes through to hold the lever on. This hole also seems to have a copper/bronze bushing. That hole is also ... not round. And, according to the parts diagram, you get the lever, or you get nothing. So, new lever is coming.

To be continued...

 
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I have large hands and the lever adjustment is all the way out. Clutch engagement seems to start about a millimeter away from the grip. At a light it almost seems to be trying to move forward with the lever in.
I've got the exact same problem. Installed a SpeedBleeder and bled the clutch, it did not help. So I've been living with the fact that the bike will start moving forward at the slightest release of the clutch lever.

 
Last night I put on the new clutch lever. I can tell there is less play in it than the old one.

Shifting is pretty good. Still notchy, clunky, noisy, etc. But, it goes into gear. Holding the clutch while coasting has almost no drag - about the same as if in neutral.

I'm going to officially designate my clutch adjustment problems 'solved'.

Thanks for all the posts and advice.

Cheers!

 
I have an '08 with 16,000 miles on it. Shifting has always been a little notchy, just thought it was a characteristic of the FJR. Changed the clutch fluid for the first time and WOW, what a difference! This is a different bike! If I would have known, it would have been done a few years ago. When I bleed the fluid, a lot of air came out which was definitely the problem. I received the bike this way from the dealer. You would think a dealer would be able to put fluids in a bike correctly. Looking forward to a smooth year of riding! :yahoo:

 
Damned FJR's are nothing but shitpiles..Nothing but one problem after another.............

I suggest we dump 'em all in the Ocean an buy 30 year old English quality. ;)

 
I have an '08 with 16,000 miles on it. Shifting has always been a little notchy, just thought it was a characteristic of the FJR. Changed the clutch fluid for the first time and WOW, what a difference! This is a different bike! If I would have known, it would have been done a few years ago. When I bleed the fluid, a lot of air came out which was definitely the problem. I received the bike this way from the dealer. You would think a dealer would be able to put fluids in a bike correctly. Looking forward to a smooth year of riding! :yahoo:
5 years/16,000 miles on the original clutch fluid? What else have you been overlooking?

Most fluids have a service life of about 2 years. It's no wonder your shifting was "notchy".

I would take some time now, before the season really gets rolling, and give your bike

a good once-over and freshen it up as needed. Then enjoy a trouble free year of riding.

 
I have an '08 with 16,000 miles on it. Shifting has always been a little notchy, just thought it was a characteristic of the FJR. Changed the clutch fluid for the first time and WOW, what a difference! This is a different bike! If I would have known, it would have been done a few years ago. When I bleed the fluid, a lot of air came out which was definitely the problem. I received the bike this way from the dealer. You would think a dealer would be able to put fluids in a bike correctly. Looking forward to a smooth year of riding! :yahoo:
5 years/16,000 miles on the original clutch fluid? What else have you been overlooking?

Most fluids have a service life of about 2 years. It's no wonder your shifting was "notchy".

I would take some time now, before the season really gets rolling, and give your bike

a good once-over and freshen it up as needed. Then enjoy a trouble free year of riding.
I did let the fluid go a little long. But your math skills may need a little refreshing. In addition, I bought the bike in the fall of '08, so according to my calculations it is just over 3 riding seasons. Like I said, it felt that way from the day I brought it home, I just thought it was the nature of the FJR.

 
I did let the fluid go a little long. But your math skills may need a little refreshing. In addition, I bought the bike in the fall of '08, so according to my calculations it is just over 3 riding seasons. Like I said, it felt that way from the day I brought it home, I just thought it was the nature of the FJR.

I won't be as caustic as SLK was, but when I get a "new to me used bike," unless I have evidence to the contrary, I would just assume that they have done absolutely nothing to it, and just renew all fluids and perform all required maintenances. Then you can confidently re-start the clock for the next round from that mileage. ;)

 
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I did let the fluid go a little long. But your math skills may need a little refreshing. In addition, I bought the bike in the fall of '08, so according to my calculations it is just over 3 riding seasons. Like I said, it felt that way from the day I brought it home, I just thought it was the nature of the FJR.

I won't be as caustic as SLK was, but when I get a "new to me used bike," unless I have evidence to the contrary, I would just assume that they have done absolutely nothing to it, and just renew all fluids and perform all required maintenances. Then you can confidently re-start the clock for the next round from that mileage. ;)
I agree completely. I had bought it New in the fall of '08. They put the fluids in it when I purchased it.

 
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