Cyclops Adventure Sports Optimus 10 degree LED lights

[RiderX]

Starting this thread to do a full report on these lights.

These are a single LED in each housing with a nice projector that gives a very long throw.

They are very solid (much heavier than the typical LED China lights) and have a lifetime guarantee.

The dimmable motorcycle harness has very high quality waterproof connectors, but perhaps not the right lengths for the FJR. Anyone using a power distribution system probably will not need the relay. The dimmer module is nice as it is significantly smaller than the ADV Monster dimmer.

Planning on posting loads of pictures this weekend. Initial temporary hook ups showing a very long throw spot as advertised. Much farther than my RealTime 3200 lumen or HIDs. The RealTime or ADVMonster or Clearwaters put much more light out near the bike. These guys use around 1A, so efficient light down range.

Website: Cyclops Adventure Sports

Darryl has agreed to do a group buy. After installation pics complete I'll find a nice patch of desert and show all the good comparisons, etc. these things take time. If you are interested in a sub $300 (including dimmer and harness) group buy drop a line here and I'll keep posting. With interest after result pics, I'll start a GB thread. More to come.

 

[someguy]

Keep us posted

 

[David Foley]

What is the lumen rating for these lights?

 

[RiderX]

Tsk. Cyclops hates lumens for a variety of reasons. Short answer is, I don't know. They put out a lux of light at 972 feet, the technology isn't amount of overall light with these, but distance. I'll have more this weekend. If anyone is on ADVRider there is a lot on this point in the Cyclops vendor thread. I'm taking a look objectively to fill a need after putting 45k with the 3200 lumen (*2) plus HID setup from last year. Back to garage

 

[RiderX]

Alright a few install pics and commentary.

Here is the box:

As you can see two well-built relfector housings and also in the box is the dimmer module. Wiring harness is next to the box and was not needed by me. There is a handbar mounted switch available with the dimmer module dimming to 50% based on the position of factory bright switch. He has another switch configuration available I believe that will dim and power on, I did not select that option. Being that I have an AE with a shortage of handlebar space, I decided to take apart the paddle switch module and mount a small waterproof switch in there.

Here is the size of the unit next to the dimmer module and an iPhone 4s:

The Pulse Width Modulator technology in this lighting setup is resident in both the light housings as well as the dimmer module. Thus, three wires are necessary to each light. The dimmer module triggers off the low beam wire, meaning they are normally 100% and when low beam detected, dim to 50% duty cycle with the PWM.Which means since I also use the ADV Monster dimmer for another set of LED lights (moving to engine crash bars), AND I keep both dimmer modules under the seat, I have to run both headlight HI and headlight LOW to the back of the bike. I'm confident you could fit this Cyclops dimmer in the front of the bike somewhere, but for my setup (rally bike) I strapped it to the back.

Here was my AE switch install. The switch came from www.highwaydirtbikes.com

Not the best picture, but this is inside the AE switch housing. Can see the low profile switch and how it fits nicely in the recess:

I routed the wires around to wear they naturally come out for the paddle switch select and the paddle shifters. I was real happy with the fit and finish:

Here is the Cyclops Projector Housing next to the Real Time Lights (which are the same housing as the ADV Monster lights, if you're familiar with either):

Here it is mounted up the Garauld under mirror light mounts:

Note the 3 conductor waterproof connector is kinda an awkward length. Speaking to Darryl, it is likely possible to get these increased in the future. The problem is the connector is right in the spot you would normally run the wire through the front air vents. I ended up cutting the inside panels ever so slightly, and then the connectors are in a perfect spot. The other alternative is to cut the connectors off, solder and heat shrink. I think if the connectors were 2 inches longer the connector could likely get inside the air vents. Here are my inside (headlight adjuster) panels with notches for the wire:

I will say that these lights go farther than the 3200 lumen 4 LEDs as well as my HIDs, which is the reason I wanted to give them a go. Hopefully my next weekend I will have some good comparison shots from the bike's perspective. Right now, I am still tore apart with other related projects.

 

[Ed Sidders]

Interesting , I don't ride at night much anymore..Deer,hogs,possums,skunks armadillos and road gators are getting more plentiful out here in the middle of nowhere...Thinking about some aux lighting for when I get caught out after dark....Waiting for the prices to drop,I paid over $1K for my first VCR years ago-don't intend to do that anymore !

 

[900gc]

What is the lumen rating for these lights?

The web site says they are 10 watt single bulb. The best Cree lamp available https://www.cree.com/led-components-and-modules/products/xlamp/discrete-directional/xlamp-xml2 is 116 lumens per watt driven @ max. 3A. So the most these could be is a little under 1200 lumens. Most current lights use the xml lamp @ about 100 lumens per watt which these most likely are. But, with the nice white light LED's have and if the beam pattern is well controlled, these should work pretty well.

They don't list the IP68 spec for water/dust/vibration resistance but they look well made and probably are.

 

[RiderX]

Yup they are IP68 with a lifetime warranty. "There is not a better made LED light on the market." Sounds like a nice sales slogan but I'd say at first look they are very well made. Gotta get some miles on em now. They draw 0.88 Amperes per light (obviously much less than higher lumen lights). Like I said the throw is very impressive. I use the high lumen lights aimed out for ditch lights (selectable per side) during heavily wooded riding. I needed more "reach out and touch somebody" on the road surface for higher speed night riding.

 

[extrememarine]

Eagerly awaiting some night shots of these...

Interested in the group buy as well, but want to see the light pattern and throw first.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[deanw]

The Pulse Width Modulator technology in this lighting setup is resident in both the light housings as well as the dimmer module. Thus, three wires are necessary to each light. The dimmer module triggers off the low beam wire, meaning they are normally 100% and when low beam detected, dim to 50% duty cycle with the PWM.Which means since I also use the ADV Monster dimmer for another set of LED lights (moving to engine crash bars), AND I keep both dimmer modules under the seat, I have to run both headlight HI and headlight LOW to the back of the bike. I'm confident you could fit this Cyclops dimmer in the front of the bike somewhere, but for my setup (rally bike) I strapped it to the back.

Probably too late to help you, but a different option:

You already have one or the other back there, right? And presumably 12V you can switch? Use the trigger wire you have to run a relay with output terminals for both 'relay on' and 'relay off'; hook one PWM unit up to each side. Bobs yer uncle.

 

[RiderX]

Yeah that would have worked, I like Bob.

Hope to have some pics this weekend. My old Olympus rally cam isn't the best to capture, but it will be ok. Longest throw of anything I have, narrow, far beam. The other LED options seem to put a lot of light near the bike with decent range. This is very focused. I'll leave ya hangin for a few more days.

 

[RiderX]

Okay, took some pics from rider perspective but to be honest it is hard to capture what I was seeing. Any tips on how to use a point and shoot camera for this sort of thing?

The lights are really great for what I wanted. The shadowy section on the road straight ahead that I got with both HIDs and stock, completely filled in. I am very pleased. Still have to adjust the 3200 lumen lights a little better down on crash bars. Will post a few pics and please PM me if you have tips (without buying a better camera).

 

[extrememarine]

Most cameras have a night mode, even point & shoots. You will probably need to have the camera on a tripod or mounted on the bike to get a decent shot - a low light setting will hold to shutter open longer, any movement will cause blur.

Okay, took some pics from rider perspective but to be honest it is hard to capture what I was seeing. Any tips on how to use a point and shoot camera for this sort of thing?

The lights are really great for what I wanted. The shadowy section on the road straight ahead that I got with both HIDs and stock, completely filled in. I am very pleased. Still have to adjust the 3200 lumen lights a little better down on crash bars. Will post a few pics and please PM me if you have tips (without buying a better camera).