Driveshaft Spline Lube

[RaYzerman19]

The final drive can rotate somewhat in the clearance for the studs the 4 nuts attach to. If misaligned, you will have difficulty or won't be able to get the rear axle in..... nothing more than that. Once the axle is installed, it self aligns, then do up the 4 nuts.

 

[smithpa68]

Ahh.. ok.. so it is really the various holes for the axle to slid through that leaving it loose helps. I get it. Makes sense. Thanks.

So what about the rubber seal? Lube or not to lube... and with what is the question?

"the outside of the gear on the final drive gear there is a rubber seal that mates to a rubber seal on the wheel. Do you leave that dry or lube it with something?"

 

[Bustanut joker]

I never have... But I'm not sure.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Never lubed any rubber parts in there.

 

[bgross]

Ahh.. ok.. so it is really the various holes for the axle to slid through that leaving it loose helps. I get it. Makes sense. Thanks.
So what about the rubber seal? Lube or not to lube... and with what is the question?

"the outside of the gear on the final drive gear there is a rubber seal that mates to a rubber seal on the wheel. Do you leave that dry or lube it with something?"

I did mine today. I may have gotten a light film of Molly 60 on the rubber seal. It might catch some dust & grit before it gets into the splines. Not a deal breaker - and I never read anywhere that it's necessary.

Hope you had as much fun as I did.

 

[Donal]

Ahh.. ok.. so it is really the various holes for the axle to slid through that leaving it loose helps. I get it. Makes sense. Thanks.
So what about the rubber seal? Lube or not to lube... and with what is the question?

"the outside of the gear on the final drive gear there is a rubber seal that mates to a rubber seal on the wheel. Do you leave that dry or lube it with something?"

I normally lube all rubber seals with a silicon spray..............

 

[garyahouse]

I've got a question: for years I've been reading various threads on the forum about lubing the splines. I've seen several pics of dry or even slightly rusty splines. But I've never seen even the slightest wear on them. Anybody ever experienced worn splines? I know we fear things wearing out or getting damaged because of being dry with no lube. But I've never seen or even heard of any damage being done to these splines. I've always kinda wondered about that.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[Colin24]

Ahh.. ok.. so it is really the various holes for the axle to slid through that leaving it loose helps. I get it. Makes sense. Thanks.
So what about the rubber seal? Lube or not to lube... and with what is the question?

"the outside of the gear on the final drive gear there is a rubber seal that mates to a rubber seal on the wheel. Do you leave that dry or lube it with something?"

I wouldn't worry about the rubber seal. You will find that if the rear wheel splines have been properly lubed that the rubber seal gets automatically lubed from the grease that gets flung off the splines. Just wait till the next time you pull the rear wheel and you will see.

- Colin

 

[Colin24]

I've got a question: for years I've been reading various threads on the forum about lubing the splines. I've seen several pics of dry or even slightly rusty splines. But I've never seen even the slightest wear on them. Anybody ever experienced worn splines? I know we fear things wearing out or getting damaged because of being dry with no lube. But I've never seen or even heard of any damage being done to these splines. I've always kinda wondered about that.
Gary

darksider #44

Many years ago when I was first getting into motorcycles I learned this lesson the hard way. Had always taken the rear wheel off myself and taken it in to get the tire changed. I had always understood that shaft drive equals maintenance free. So would just slap the rear wheel back on with the new tire.

Then one time I had the wheel off I just happened to take a closer look at the splines. And low and behold upon very close inspection the splines were worn. In fact the both the splines on the wheel and on the gearcase where worn equally. Basically half of each tooth had disappeared. A very expensive lesson on the importance of ensuring all those surfaces are properly lubricated every time I remove the rear wheel!

So yes, absolutely, those parts can fail if not properly maintained.

- Colin

 

[Bounce]

I've got a question: for years I've been reading various threads on the forum about lubing the splines. I've seen several pics of dry or even slightly rusty splines. But I've never seen even the slightest wear on them. Anybody ever experienced worn splines? I know we fear things wearing out or getting damaged because of being dry with no lube. But I've never seen or even heard of any damage being done to these splines. I've always kinda wondered about that.
Gary

darksider #44

Yes. Just not on the FJR. As a group, we caught it and got the word out before people could screw up their bikes like the Wing riders before them. There have been plenty of shaft-driven bikes whose owners ignored this routine service and spent lots of money swapping in new/used/salvaged rear drives.

 

[Mr. BR]

I'm still an ST1100 owner and worn rear wheel drive splines and their maintenance is well documented over at www.st-owners.com. You really need to forego the spline lube for many, many miles before you have a problem but it does happen (and the moly 60 paste is the right stuff). The splines on my 92K mile ST still look great!

Regards,

Mr. BR

 

[RaYzerman19]

Yes, can be a problem on Honda ST's if not lubed/neglected, and not so much on FJR's (which may be harder material), but wear will occur with zero lube. Moly 60 is the best lube, but on FJR's one might get away with another grease, but at least make sure it has some grease.

 

[rbentnail]

My experience with splined shafts extends from years of working with/on universal joint and splined shaft driven 2-10 ton overhead crane systems in abusive environments. Lubed splines would wear out in 6-8 months, unlubed ones in less than 2. Lubrication in these applications, not unlike those we run our bikes in, is essential to the life of the parts.

And IMHO there are better products than moly 60 paste. Aerosol moly lubes have the same lubrication and corrosion protection properties while dry. They won't collect dust. Not a problem as long as lubrication is repeated regularly and the old is thoroughly cleaned off before applying fresh paste.

 

[RaYzerman19]

My experience with splined shafts extends from years of working with/on universal joint and splined shaft driven 2-10 ton overhead crane systems in abusive environments. Lubed splines would wear out in 6-8 months, unlubed ones in less than 2. Lubrication in these applications, not unlike those we run our bikes in, is essential to the life of the parts.
And IMHO there are better products than moly 60 paste. Aerosol moly lubes have the same lubrication and corrosion protection properties while dry. They won't collect dust. Not a problem as long as lubrication is repeated regularly and the old is thoroughly cleaned off before applying fresh paste.

I would have to agree. One would have to be very naiive to not believe an unlubed spline doesn't generate heat and wear. The dry lube is typically used to coat bearing surfaces as the moly will 'bond' with the metal for a very long time. If one was worried about temperatures higher than moly can stand (1200 F), one could use titanium dioxide powder or grease. But for FJR practical purposes, moly paste is fine.

 

[smithpa68]

Thanks for all the tips guys. My bike is back together with a new tire and seems normal.

One thing I would say about installing the rear wheel before torquing the 4 bolts holding on the final drive... Hopefully you have different length torque wrenches, socket extensions, and/or sockets I had no way of using my torque wrenches and sockets on those bolts with the tire on. Just couldn't get any clear path to swing the handles. I could get three of the four but not that darn 4th one. So I snugged up the final drive acorn nuts pretty good with a wrench to keep the alignment and pulled the rear wheel off again. Then it was easy to torque the four acorn nuts. It isn't hard to put the rear tire back on so it didn't add that much time I guess.

 

[xcsp]

smithpa68, Could install just the rear axle to align the housing to the opposite side of the swingarm and tighten/torque the 4 bolts/nuts and then pull the axle, and install the rear wheel.

 

[smithpa68]

Yeah.. I realized that for next time.