FJR Ignition current draw

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For reference ....

Gen 1 system draws just over 7 Amps during initial "switch on", while fuel pump is cycling. Then it settles to a steady 3.5 Amps.

 
I have sometimes made a short stop for fuel or other errand, and when I get back to the bike, the fan starts along with everything else at key-on. This makes startup a tense situation on my bike as the starter struggles to turn the engine with the added load of the fans.

Do you know what the draw of the fan is?

Is there a way to disable the fan until startup to avoid this?

 
I have sometimes made a short stop for fuel or other errand, and when I get back to the bike, the fan starts along with everything else at key-on. This makes startup a tense situation on my bike as the starter struggles to turn the engine with the added load of the fans.
Do you know what the draw of the fan is?

Is there a way to disable the fan until startup to avoid this?
This shouldn't be a problem. If the battery and starting circuits are in good condition, the fan really shouldn't interfere with starting.

This is a perfect situation to use a clamp-on DC ammeter to check the draw of the starter motor.

 
Don't know why the fan/s can operate when the engine isn't running? Why have unnecessary loads switched on while cranking?

Having a solenoid release which is always powered (~ 8 watts) for the storage box seems a bit absurd.

The designers don't seem to think all much about the power utilization and conservation on the bike.

We know from the wiring harness and ignition switch problems that the electrical design is not a top focus of the designers.

You could easily add a momentary switch in the fan relay circuit to kill the fan as needed.

 
I was just thinking maybe the fan could be put on a relay activated by the headlight power. Simple, clean and keeps it off until the engine runs.

Twigg, it spins up great unless the fan is running. I don't have a top of the line battery, but it has plenty to crank the engine, hot or cold, with that exception.

 
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You could source the fan relay coil power from the output of the headlight relay. You'd have to remove the front cowling to access the relay circuits.

For easy circuit access you could add a cheap momentary NC switch somewhere in the coil circuit as it makes its way back to the computer under the seat.

Or, you can let the coolant cool (below 100 degC) a bit before starting.

 
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