Footpegs scraping - is there a fix?

[charismaticmegafauna]

...the FJR and getting it set up right Been riding for 40+ years.

My only gripe with the FJR is it is way to easy to scrape up the foot pegs.

So is there a way to get the foot pegs up a bit higher?

With 40+ years experience, I think coaching you on technique may be a waste of time? (although, we can all learn something from-time-to-time... )

Reading your web-page, I see you've installed a Russell seat -- that, alone, inhibits much of the "hang-off" advice.

Another feature on your web-page are your links to magazine articles about the FJR. Unfortunately, you seem to have missed the very first test -- done by Motorcyclist magazine on the first ('03) FJR -- wherein, then editor, Mitch Boehm (commenting on the excessive peg-dragging) said: "Yamaha screwed the pooch" (his words).

Well designed motorcycles shoudn't drag parts when cornering -- especially hard parts. Fortunately, the FJR's foot-pegs are designed to fold under pressure. (Some other brands of motorcycles have actually led to death of riders by dragging hard-parts when cornering.)

Given the fixed width of the FJR (and the rider peg locations), raising the chassis with shorter dogbones seems the preferred solution?

(it'll also quicken the steering -- which may, too, be advantageous to the curvy road rider? )

 

[Top Case]

Totally agree with JB.....technique. When I shift my weight to the inside, partially slide a cheek off the seat, and lean 'er over, the footpegs touch at the time I'm within 1/8" from the edge of the tire. That's a pretty good and simple safety indicator for me.

* Lean your torso and head. If you move some other heavy parts, you really don't have to get your butt that far off-center. Your head & helmet weigh a lot more than you realize. Get your line of sight outside the windshield and closer to the mirrors.

Get familiar with the lean angle just above that at which your pegs start scraping, and work your technique as much as you feel comfortable in increasing speed from there. Start with upper body, and then move your butt. On rough and unpredictable roads like those around St Helens, keep peg scraping in reserve for unexpected bumps and adjustments you need to make in mid-curve. Be aware that riding like this is likely to cause "half hexagon" tire wear, as you hit the same angle for all agressive curves. You'll lean the bike the same at all levels of riding above cruising; once you're leaning the bike to its limit, further increases in agression through neutral body position, upper body lean, butt shift, and track technique don't change the contact patch, so tire wear gets concentrated.

It's worth investing in suspension set-up and track days, but, DON'T raise the pegs unlesss through a suspension adjustment that also raises the harder bits.

You could kill yourself if you raise the pegs, lose the early warning that peg scraping provides, and pry your tires off the pavement with a harder piece of the bike.

 

[wfooshee]

Said from the man who's highest elevation is Britton Hill Florida at 345 feet above sea level.

And he's a 10-hour ride from there!

You could kill yourself if you raise the pegs, lose the early warning that peg scraping provides, and pry your tires off the pavement with a harder piece of the bike.

I was thinking about including that to my previous post, but don't have any credibility being a self-confessed non-scraper, but yeah, if the can is the first thing that scrapes, that can't be good. . . . .

 

[zenwhipper]

Mount St Helens is notorious for off camber corners. Especially FS 99. And simple physics dictates in these corners the road will be closer to the inside peg.

Scott

 

[HaulinAshe]

I bounced back in here and still see the need for one additional comment...

Folks giving advice to shorten the dog bones, based on their experience with Gen-I bikes, please be careful to clarify that condition. While changing the dog bones on Gen-I is a tried & proven option, it does NOT have the same effect on Gen-II. Typically the Gen-II benefits much more from a rear spring change. The chassis/swingarm geometry of the two generations is significantly different.

Excellent point made earlier about tire wear. The OP definitely needs to get ready to buy some tires. Come on in, the water's great!!!

 

[Leskid]

believe it or not, I take my '03 to track days, just for fun. And of course, even hanging off the side to stand her up a little, I'm scraping all over the place.

This season, I just removed the feelers under the pegs. While I still am scraping all over the place, it did give me a little more room so I can come-in hotter. They just un-screw, so I tossed them in the factory tool-bag under the seat and that's where they've been, ever since.

Anyone want a set of 03 "racing feelers"? (they're worn-down about 50% so they're much lighter than stock)

 

[rogdeb]

Our peg scraping was solved pretty much (95%) by the installation of shorter dog bones (adjustable turnbuckle type) and an aftermarket rear suspension (HyperPro)

Good luck with whatever you need to do for a fix Mr Fontana. There's a heap of good advice already given.

 

[dcarver]

I'm not such a fart smeller compared to me technical comprades but will say that since GP Suspension outfitted a 3 way Penske and reworked the front end, the only time I drag pegs is for show. And yes, my tires wear the sides out long before the center.