GEN II CCT, Thermostat Change & Sasquatch Shock Preview

[Patriot]

my Sasquatch shock is being installed tomorrow and will be picking up bike from shop on Thursday

lotsa riding scheduled for May with reports forthcoming

I'm glad you posted a picture of the shock before installation...mine looks gorgeous from the outside

but was so busy talking about the work I wanted done, I didn't take a pic with my phone

I have info/impression/level of satisfaction to report...all quite positive...

to be fair, the entire combination of Ebach fork springs, total rebuild of stock shock by Sasquatch Suspensions, and a brand new front PR2 have made the bike anew. I've ridden 600+ miles since getting the bike back from my local shop on Thur evening. Half those miles on the slab, but half on other roads and highways including today's to and fro hwy 90 sweepers where the bike easily let me take them at a constant +15mph over what felt safe before.

I could hardly be happier with $100 fork springs + $475 shock rebuild + $103.37 Derby Cycles front PR2 making the bike feel stable, planted, and safer.

It's even more funner to ride her...

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Donal]

Has anyone tried one of these, looks like it could be the answer to an easy CCT replacement if only.....................

 

[yamafitter]

Has anyone tried one of these, looks like it could be the answer to an easy CCT replacement if only.....................

You will probably find that there is not enough room for the ratchet head to get onto the bolt closest to the frame. It is a serious PITA unless you are willing to pull the motor for other reasons like some folks have done. Doing a CCT with the motor on the bench is easy pesy.

 

[TomInPA]

Has anyone tried one of these, looks like it could be the answer to an easy CCT replacement if only.....................

The CCT comes right out using a 8mm thinwall-ratcheting Craftsman wrench (not Gear-Wrench), if you remove the clutch cover to gain swing-room. The clutch cover is not hard to remove, and no gasket needed.

 

[escapefjrtist]

The CCT comes right out using a 8mm thinwall-ratcheting Craftsman wrench (not Gear-Wrench), if you remove the clutch cover to gain swing-room. The clutch cover is not hard to remove, and no gasket needed.

These are a neat concept for wrenches, going to check them out! Perhaps a last minute order for Santa...

Thanks Tom.

--G

 

[lnewlf]

I did the first valve inspection today along with a CCT replacement. Valves first-all in spec-then on to the CCT. I was planning to remove the right cowl and timing cover to secure the chain but there is a much easier way. I slid a thin screwdriver down the cam chain tunnel on the tensioner side so that it pressed against the top of the slipper and wedged it in place with a wrench against the frame. The slipper pivots on that pesky dowel on the bottom...holding pressure on the top keeps tension on the chain and no worries about it sagging off the crank sprocket when the CCT is removed.

 

[monkin]

I had found a very easy "how to" on replacing the cct.

But..I lost it. Stupid me didnt bookmark it.

Anyway it showed a picture of the motor removed which helped

in locating everything. It also stated something about turning

the crank 2 rotations "manually" to make sure it didn't jump a tooth.

Does anyone know where this link is? I also dont understand how to

turn the crank and what to look for in the process.

Thanks for any help.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Take a look further down the topics and you'll find this thread where the CCT is replaced as well as links to Yamafitters thread. The crank bolt is located behind the oil pump cover.

Removal of the engine is a large job and was only done after it was grenade'd.

--G

 

[monkin]

Thats it!! Thanks escape.

Where it says to turn the crank 2 full revolutions..are you saying to remove the

oil pump cover and turn it from there? And if so..what should I look for while

turning it?

Thanks

 

[TomInPA]

Thats it!! Thanks escape.

Where it says to turn the crank 2 full revolutions..are you saying to remove the

oil pump cover and turn it from there? And if so..what should I look for while

turning it?

Thanks

Radio Howie posted some pics of the cam sprockets from his engine on a bench. In real life, those marks are very hard to see because they are about 1/2 inch from the frame, and you have to have the valve cover off and timing chain cover to really visualize the marks, chain, slippers and timing. An inspection mirror, bright light and good angles can view them, but really, it's almost easier to move the sprockets to a position they are easily visualized, and transcribe a mark to the inboard side. Anyway, I recently completed the CCT change, and using reasonable precautions, you will not jump a timing tooth. Still, I triple checked. Here are the main reference I used.

FJR1300 Valve Adjustment www.fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html This link is broken

Notes on Valve Clearance Check - FJRForum

Cam Chain Replacement - FJRForum

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//ind...st=40&p=787762&&do=findComment&comment=787762Gen1 Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) Replacement Lessons Learned - FJRForum - Page 3

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thats it!! Thanks escape.

Where it says to turn the crank 2 full revolutions..are you saying to remove the

oil pump cover and turn it from there? And if so..what should I look for while

turning it?

Take a look at the threads that Tom referenced for info.

There is a plastic plug in the oil pump cover that can be removed to access the crank bolt. Turning the crank two revolutions will turn the cams one [complete] revolution since they are driven at half speed off the crank. When checking valve clearances and need to change shims, this will allow viewing of the timing marks to insure everything is lined up properly.

--G

 

[Fred W]

If all that you want to do is to turn the engine over to be sure that you do not have any "interference" before firing it up, you can just shift the bike into gear (5th makes it easier) and use the rear wheel to bump the engine around. Easier to do while the plugs are still out so there in no compression.

Also, FWIW, if you skip one tooth you will not have interference. It has happened a bunch of times when folks bring their bikes to the shop and they aren't careful about the timing. The bike starts and runs, but it runs poorly. Exact symptoms vary depending on which way it skips. If it skips more than one tooth, well then you might be in serious trouble if you start it without checking.

 

[monkin]

10-4 gonna order the cct...seems like it can be done.

sounds like the chain skipping is not likely as long as

I wire tie it together.

Thanks again folks.

 

[RadioHowie]

THIS link might help you, too.

Oops...that's the same as TomInCA's 3rd link. Oh well.....

 

[Niehart]

Thanks ---G. This blog made changing my thermostat simple.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thanks ---G. This blog made changing my thermostat simple.

You're welcome Pops...sorry I couldn't make it over for an [unneeded] assist!

--G

 

[lele]

thermostat can be removed. not necessesary