How too...

[zzzzip]

Yep, ZZZZIP has the easy cheep idea. 1st roll the rear tire up on a 2X4 as this makes it easier to get the center stand up on a 2X4 or 2X6. Next, and this is important, tie the center stand forward with tie wire or ratchet strap. What would happen if your floor jack leaked down during the night (look at the above picture). I just changed front tire on mine and my almost new Sears 2 ¼ ton floor jack leaked down over night. My center stand was tied forward tite and no problem. Got this idea from seeing wings, at a show, all with their center stands tied forward. And yep, my new 2 ½ ton jack doesn’t leak down- held car up with it overnight just to check (but still don't trust it). Later,,, De

Actually, the floor jack is just snug under the pipes for extra overnight security. I only used it to raise the front enough to set the forks on the jack stands before removing the front wheel. The security is in the jack stands, because you can never trust a floor jack to not leak down. I never crawled under a car on a floor jack with out first placing jack stands. The jack stands are a MUST, as the weight is on the stands and the center stand. Thus you have a secure 4 point contact, and the weight is not on the pipes for very long. As long as you don't turn the handle bar, it is a very secure situation, in my opinion. There are better ways, like with the straps from the overhead beams, but I'd still use the stands. For short term ease of use, I like this.

B)

 

[Fred W]

Seems like all the options have been well covered, except for the initial condition. Why take off both wheels at the same time? If you learn to change your own tires, then you'll only ever have to take one wheel off at a time.

Rear wheel off is a no-brainer. For front wheel off, use the jack under headers to raise the front until the rear wheel (which is back on) touches down. It will be pretty darn stable like that. Use jack stands or tubular stand/straps if leaving over night.

 

[SPORT]

Seems like all the options have been well covered, except for the initial condition. Why take off both wheels at the same time? If you learn to change your own tires, then you'll only ever have to take one wheel off at a time.
Rear wheel off is a no-brainer. For front wheel off, use the jack under headers to raise the front until the rear wheel (which is back on) touches down. It will be pretty darn stable like that. Use jack stands or tubular stand/straps if leaving over night.

A this point it will cost about $200+ to change a tire myself (air compressor, tire changing tools and the like). So my plan is to collect the tools over the next year; then do it all myself. First step. building a bike hanger so I can take both wheels to the shop and have them do it for me...this time. I'll then have that tool for Fork repairs and the like.

 

[mjac]

No more than I do it, this works pretty good for me....

B)

Zactly...

The trick is putting the bike up on the centerstand on a board or couple o' 2x4's to begin with.

Yup. Add a 2x for the rear. Then drive up on them. It makes it easier to get the bike up on the 2x under the centerstand

 

[mdisher]

Seems like all the options have been well covered, except for the initial condition. Why take off both wheels at the same time? If you learn to change your own tires, then you'll only ever have to take one wheel off at a time.

Not exactly I change my own but my tire changer is a shared changer with my dad, at his house. If I'm just doing the rear I'll ride there, if I'm doing both I usually also take the time to clean things up, regrease a bunch of stuff, etc, etc.

I don't want to do that at his place. So I'll take both off and run them over, change them and run em back.

I didn't notice where the original poster was from, but I'm sure there's another owner not too far away with the equipment that can help you change tires for the cost of a 6 pack.

 

[SPORT]

I didn't notice where the original poster was from, but I'm sure there's another owner not too far away with the equipment that can help you change tires for the cost of a 6 pack.

...Randy?

6 pack...? Apparantly someone's not from PA as you can't get anything less than a case.

Got the wheels off, cleaned and re-installed the drive spline, cleaned up areas difficult to reach while wheels are on. Plan on taking the wheels and new tires in Monday or Tuesday.

 

[Fred W]

I didn't notice where the original poster was from, but I'm sure there's another owner not too far away with the equipment that can help you change tires for the cost of a 6 pack.

...Randy?

6 pack...? Apparantly someone's not from PA as you can't get anything less than a case.

Got the wheels off, cleaned and re-installed the drive spline, cleaned up areas difficult to reach while wheels are on. Plan on taking the wheels and new tires in Monday or Tuesday.

Did you already get an estimate from the bike shop for the tire mount/balance SPORT? I know many shops get pissed if you bring in your own rubber and (try to) charge you up the wazoo.

 

[Silent]

I've got the full tire change setup at the house, 12 pack works for me, even get to share it with the one getting the tires changed

 

[SPORT]

Did you already get an estimate from the bike shop for the tire mount/balance SPORT? I know many shops get pissed if you bring in your own rubber and (try to) charge you up the wazoo.

My local dealer charges $50...a wheel! He won't touch your bike if you bought the tires elsewhere.

Big Boyz Toyz charges $35 a wheel. I'm calling several other places today to find a cheaper price.

 

[Fred W]

Did you already get an estimate from the bike shop for the tire mount/balance SPORT? I know many shops get pissed if you bring in your own rubber and (try to) charge you up the wazoo.

My local dealer charges $50...a wheel! He won't touch your bike if you bought the tires elsewhere.

Big Boyz Toyz charges $35 a wheel. I'm calling several other places today to find a cheaper price.

$35 is about as low as shops go.

 

[FJRMGM]

from a safety perspective I would never put a 550+ pound bike up on center stand and jack stands like above without having any overhead safety straps.

That is the classic "Danger Will Robinson!!" scenario and one could have a really bad day if that bike tipped over on them.

 

[SPORT]

Just got the wheels back on the bike and on the ground. Most Jap service dept. either charged and arm and a child, or just refused to mount if tires were purchased outside their store walls. So I made up a list to call the HD service dept. since York PA is filled with them. THe first one I called (and typically known for being the most expensive) gave me an out the door price of $63...for both.

Needless to say I dropped the wheels off after work (3:30) and picked them up 1.5 hours later. By 7:30pm I had the bike back together and on the ground. The process was actually quite easy. splines are cleaned and lubed, pumpkin is filled, brakes are pumped and ready, and all bolts are torqued. All that is left to to take her for a ride. Contemplating riding tomorrow, but its expected to rain with a high of 68F. The rain doesn't bother me but I don't really have summer rain gear yet. I'll see what I feel like in the morning.

Thanks for all the suggestions! They were all very informative.

 

[Greg E.]

No more than I do it, this works pretty good for me....

B)

That's exactly the way I pulled both of my wheels off when I had my Dunlops installed. No probs.

-GSE-

 

[Fred W]

from a safety perspective I would never put a 550+ pound bike up on center stand and jack stands like above without having any overhead safety straps.
That is the classic "Danger Will Robinson!!" scenario and one could have a really bad day if that bike tipped over on them.

:blink:

I don't see the safety issue here. Are you laying under your bike when it's jacked up?

If you mean it is risky to the cosmetic well being of your bike I would agree. But so is riding it...

 

[dgfella]

not trying to hijack the thread here but...

I took my wheels/rims and new tires to 3 dealers, all refused to do them because I didn't buy them there. The fourth one told me to leave them and pick them up in a week!

I went to a small, local motorcycle shop, and he charged me $60 for both and had them done in an hour.

 

[SPORT]

not trying to hijack the thread here but...
I took my wheels/rims and new tires to 3 dealers, all refused to do them because I didn't buy them there. The fourth one told me to leave them and pick them up in a week!

I went to a small, local motorcycle shop, and he charged me $60 for both and had them done in an hour.

Yup. Ironically I went to an HD dealer to have my wheels changed. Wats up widat?

And here we've thought that HD people were stuck-up. I'm beginning to see things from a different perspective. :glare:

 

[ngarider]

CycleGear, $30/ea -- just did it today, got my PR2's mounted up from the GB. My ride sits in the garage right now looking almost exactly like zzzip's. 1 beer removal, 2 beer reinstallation. And I take the u-joint out to re-lube just for good measure.

 

[user 213]

My local dealer charges $50...a wheel! He won't touch your bike if you bought the tires elsewhere.
Big Boyz Toyz charges $35 a wheel. I'm calling several other places today to find a cheaper price.

My local Yamaha dealer charges $19 per wheel including tire disposal fee. It's not that hard to mount and balance a tire. The local Cycle gear is cheaper, ($12 ea), IF you buy the tires from them, a bit more if you walk your own tires in, ($25 IIRC).

I know guys with tire changers, but really don't want to prey on their good nature for something I can get done quicker at the local shop, (which is closer to me any way).

 

[HaulinAshe]

Local motorcycle dealers are now charging $65/wheel for Sport-Touring mounting and balancing. I have a good arrangement with a local automotive tire dealer that changes rubber for me at $10/wheel. As long as we can keep that arrangement going, I'm not changing any myself!

Don't forget that many small tire dealerships are just as good (and well equipped) to change motorcycle tires as motorcycle shops. A few things to consider...

* They don't care much if they scratch your rims. They will be reasonably careful and try to avoid it, but all tire changing devices have the potential to scratch rims. Small business shops will take just as much care to avoid scratching as the pimple-face doofus at the bike shop.

* Take the time to show them exactly how to mount the tires. I like to mark my tires with big arrows and they like it when I stack the new tire beside or on top of the old wheel/tire exactly as it should be mounted.

* Let them know that you will do the balancing. Marc Parnes balancer outperforms the best $8,000 computer balancer I've seen used.

* Every couple of tire changes you will need to have the old tire removed, then personally use your wire brush and cleaner to clean the rim seat before the new tire gets mounted. Your motorcycle shop won't do this for you either, so don't think the auto shop is any different.

 

[GAPS]

SKYWAY sliders make a fine lift point for the front, I put her on the centerstand, jack the front from the header and set her back down so the sliders are sitting on a set of jack stands....the jack stands and centerstand both require some 2x lumber under them to get the height I want but it is very stable and easy to set up.