Installing a Fuzeblock Under Passenger Seat

[Gizmo]

And I thought this was going to be the easy part. First of all, I want to keep the area under the rider's seat open as I hope to use it for the audiovox cruise control install, that's why I'm putting the Fuzeblock under the passenger seat. I've explored a few options for routing the wires from the battery to fuseblock, but I'm not happy with any of them. From the riders seat backwards is not problem, it's getting from the battery to the rider's seat. I'm looking for some feedback on what others have done and how it's worked for them.

 

[Cdogman]

And I thought this was going to be the easy part. First of all, I want to keep the area under the rider's seat open as I hope to use it for the audiovox cruise control install, that's why I'm putting the Fuzeblock under the passenger seat. I've explored a few options for routing the wires from the battery to fuseblock, but I'm not happy with any of them. From the riders seat backwards is not problem, it's getting from the battery to the rider's seat. I'm looking for some feedback on what others have done and how it's worked for them.

I installed my fuseblock on top of the heatshield under my tank towards the top under the "T" bar, on the battery side.. I used the glove box unlock signal to fire a relay to carry the current.. now i run my electrical from there and it is Very close to the battery.. 25,000 miles and no problem.. Leave enough slack to lift it and move it as needed to do TBS and remove heat shields to play with bike

just may way

 

[TILAM]

I just ran my wires from the battery, under the tank (on top of the jiffy pop insulation) and back along the left side frame rail to the fuse box. My box is always hot and I was sure to put the main fuse for it near the battery in case the wire chaffes. No problem in 15,000 miles.

 

[extrememarine]

I had a fuse block up front in the glove box, and a bluesea in the rear under the pillion seat. I ran the main power feed from the battery (/w fuse 2" from battery) through wiring loom under the right side (as you sit on the bike) under the tank and back along the subframe rails. Had no problems in over 20K miles.

-wr

 

[double_entendre]

I attached my fuseblock to the airbox under the right sidecover and ran cables from the battery down the right side of the frame under the tank.

There's a bolt running through a just-big-enough hole into the airbox with a nylok nut on the inside and the wire tie on the positive wire holds the other end of the fuseblock--though really the bolt into the airbox does all the work. The zip tie is just a fail safe.

Rancho

 

[NSrider]

I attached my fuseblock to the airbox under the right sidecover and ran cables from the battery down the right side of the frame under the tank.

There's a bolt running through a just-big-enough hole into the airbox with a nylok nut on the inside and the wire tie on the positive wire holds the other end of the fuseblock--though really the bolt into the airbox does all the work. The zip tie is just a fail safe.

Rancho

Do you still add a fuse near the battery even when you use a fuse block?

Edit - Never mind, I found the answer to my question.

 

[Foxhuntr]

Hey, Gizmo

I may be a little late with this post, but I put my Blue Seas under the pillon and routed the battery wires along the frame on the outside, then to the side cover and up under the seat. I sort of tucked them in behind the adjustable "wing" (which I always leave closed). they are exposed for about 3 inches between there and the side panel - I wrapped them to make them inconspicuous. I also ran wires forward on the left side following a similar path. It's working fine.

Rick

 

[Wolfhound]

I routed behind ABS, behind frame to rear of motor then along inside frame to front . . . .

 

[Capt. Bob]

I ran the main power feed from the battery (/w fuse 2" from battery) through wiring loom under the right side (as you sit on the bike) under the tank and back along the subframe rails. Had no problems in over 20K miles.
-wr

Ditto!

Except my Blue Sea is under the driver seat.

 

[jazsr]

I considered the passenger underseat location also for the Fuzeblock, however, it's compact size seemed perfect in the tool tray under the driver seat latch, secured w/ velcro in a vertical orientation. Replace the silly tiny screws with something providing tool-less access and behold! Freeplay in the attached wiring allows Fuzeblock to be pulled away from it's velcroed anchor point and rotated upward for painless removal of cover and fuses within. The seat latch works fine with no clearance issues on my bike. Also, this allows ample space for the Audiovox servo, Yamaha tool pouch and room to spare as you can see. Wiring from battery to this location was clean and straightforward along right side behind frame rails. Just an option for ya here, good luck. Sorry about the lo-fi photos, my current dig cam sux.

jazsr

 

[FJR Flyer]

I attached my fuseblock to the airbox under the right sidecover and ran cables from the battery down the right side of the frame under the tank.

There's a bolt running through a just-big-enough hole into the airbox with a nylok nut on the inside and the wire tie on the positive wire holds the other end of the fuseblock--though really the bolt into the airbox does all the work. The zip tie is just a fail safe.

Rancho

Rancho, what gauge wire are you using to feed the fuse block?

 

[Alex]

I mounted my Fuze block in the tail of the bike using 3M velcro under the entire thing. I also placed the factory rubber strap over the box to secure it. I then ran a really heavy duty 230V server cord from the battery down the right side and to the rear. The server cord had 3 heavy gauge braided copper wires which served the purpose of Battery pos., ground, and one for accessory switched power.

I then used the right side for running all the communication, GPS wires that are more sensitive to interference.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I used #10 wire with an appropriate sized fusible link at the battery end, run it alongside the battery (above the tray edge), pass through the engine compartment and along the right side of the motor/inside the frame. That entire length of wire is shielded using heat resistant wire shield from NAPA. It's expensive at $50 / 10 feet, but it's rugged and can easily carry 2 or 3 wires.

I can't stress enough the need for a fusible link on the battery end. You have to consider what will happen when you do something like drop the bike and the fairing pinches the wire against metal. It doesn't have to be a crash. Something like a simple parking lot drop could go from an "oh crap" moment, to a "run for your life" moment if the battery were shorted with a piece of #10 wire!

You still need and should use regular fuses on the load side of things (Fuzeblock etc.). For those of us with ABS, PC-III, air pumps, and alarms, space under the seats is at a premium. Once you get the wire past the rear of the tank it can be a very personalized choice on where to place everything.

One final note, I chose the right side of the bike versus the left side, because I was not comfortable routing a heavy gauge wire along the same path as the fuel hose. And the OEM wiring harness takes up nearly all the available space on that side.

 

[Gizmo]

Thanks for the input everyone! I was considering moving the fuzeblock to area under the rider's seat but there are too many other items I'm planning on using that area for. I was going to run the wires from the battery (using an appropriate sized fuse <=2" from the battery) around the front of the bike, behind the headlamps, under the glove box, between the tank and the heat shield and down the left side - trying to keep all the wiring together. But after reading this thread Clicky Here!, I may reconsider.

It's too fookin cold to be workin' on it now anyway. My garage is not heated and it's 8 F. Any more creative installs out there???