LED Controller

[SCOTTIE]

If you add a switch to the Skene unit you can have 3 preset levels of light for the dimmed lights and then 100% on high beam. I know it isn't infinitely variable, but it's more than most people need. I have the ADVMonster dimmer and once I found the level I liked for daytime use I haven't found the need to change it again.

 

[Justin]

Hey - I'm sorry, I did not get your messages and someone pointed out this thread to me. Not sure why I didn't get those, I'll have to look into that further to make sure other messages aren't being "lost" :/.
We're actually out of stock on the basic dimmers right now. We carry the Skene units as well, which are a much better option. Just hide the little box somewhere and everything is controlled through the highbeam switch. It also is pretty much plug and play as it omits the need for a separate relay etc.

No worries Justin. Sorry for your e-mail technical difficulties, good thing I was a 'pest' eh?

As far as I can tell, that rotary controller you carry is the only one like it in existence! I know there is another rotary type (ADV) out there but it's twice the $$. I like the idea of having variable brightness control at my finger tips instead of pre-set like the Skene.

So.... will you be getting more of the rotary ones in soon?

Thanks much!

I'm not sure if we'll be doing more rotary dimmers. We switched to the Skene because it's pretty much an all in one solution. It costs a bit more, but it simplifies installation and has everything needed in a small size. And like SCOTTIE said above, you can add a switch to the yellow wire for custom settings. With a 3 position switch, you can have 3 preset dimmed levels and just toggle between them with the switch. And, typically once you find the dimmed level you like with your lowbeams, most people hardly ever adjust it.

 

[900gc]

Hey - I'm sorry, I did not get your messages and someone pointed out this thread to me. Not sure why I didn't get those, I'll have to look into that further to make sure other messages aren't being "lost" :/.
We're actually out of stock on the basic dimmers right now. We carry the Skene units as well, which are a much better option. Just hide the little box somewhere and everything is controlled through the highbeam switch. It also is pretty much plug and play as it omits the need for a separate relay etc.

No worries Justin. Sorry for your e-mail technical difficulties, good thing I was a 'pest' eh?

As far as I can tell, that rotary controller you carry is the only one like it in existence! I know there is another rotary type (ADV) out there but it's twice the $$. I like the idea of having variable brightness control at my finger tips instead of pre-set like the Skene.

So.... will you be getting more of the rotary ones in soon?

Thanks much!

I'm not sure if we'll be doing more rotary dimmers. We switched to the Skene because it's pretty much an all in one solution. It costs a bit more, but it simplifies installation and has everything needed in a small size. And like SCOTTIE said above, you can add a switch to the yellow wire for custom settings. With a 3 position switch, you can have 3 preset dimmed levels and just toggle between them with the switch. And, typically once you find the dimmed level you like with your lowbeams, most people hardly ever adjust it.

Sounds like that may work. My nightly commute route would benefit from about 3 different brightness levels due to a wide variety of road and traffic conditions (hence the reason for the rotary one) as the LED's are needed to enhance the mediocre DR headlight as well as DRL use.

 

[Warpdrv]

Glad Justin got my email so you guys could lock down on comms.....

Good luck 900

 

[escapefjrtist]

I have two sets of Justin's LR4s operating with Skene controllers.

On my Tenere, I hooked up the yellow wire / toggle switch to use the three preset brightness settings. I've found the default 20% setting works great for daytime and 50% is excellent at nighttime for low-beam fill in. I also very rarely get flashed at 50%. High beam triggers 100% on the LR4s.

With the FJR I didn't want to poke any holes in the dash panels so no yellow wire / toggle switch. Again I use 20% for normal daytime running around. If I have a longer nighttime ride planned, I just program the Skene to whatever default brightness I choose...typically 40% - 60% to minimize flashing. High beam triggers 100%.

--G

 

[900gc]

I have two sets of Justin's LR4s operating with Skene controllers.
On my Tenere, I hooked up the yellow wire / toggle switch to use the three preset brightness settings. I've found the default 20% setting works great for daytime and 50% is excellent at nighttime for low-beam fill in. I also very rarely get flashed at 50%. High beam triggers 100% on the LR4s.

With the FJR I didn't want to poke any holes in the dash panels so no yellow wire / toggle switch. Again I use 20% for normal daytime running around. If I have a longer nighttime ride planned, I just program the Skene to whatever default brightness I choose...typically 40% - 60% to minimize flashing. High beam triggers 100%.

--G

I had thought of the possibility of having a preset position of say 50% that would suffice as both DRL and supplementary headlight fill in. Since the LED's are a 30 deg. beam design, I suppose i could angle them down a bit as well to lessen the dazzle effect.

So the next question....the ADV and Skene models seem to work the same but the ADV also has a remote and is cheaper, so I would be leaning towards the ADV one, unless, I am overlooking some advantage to the Skene ?

 

[2degreesout]

I have two sets of Justin's LR4s operating with Skene controllers.
On my Tenere, I hooked up the yellow wire / toggle switch to use the three preset brightness settings. I've found the default 20% setting works great for daytime and 50% is excellent at nighttime for low-beam fill in. I also very rarely get flashed at 50%. High beam triggers 100% on the LR4s.

With the FJR I didn't want to poke any holes in the dash panels so no yellow wire / toggle switch. Again I use 20% for normal daytime running around. If I have a longer nighttime ride planned, I just program the Skene to whatever default brightness I choose...typically 40% - 60% to minimize flashing. High beam triggers 100%.

--G

I had thought of the possibility of having a preset position of say 50% that would suffice as both DRL and supplementary headlight fill in. Since the LED's are a 30 deg. beam design, I suppose i could angle them down a bit as well to lessen the dazzle effect.

So the next question....the ADV and Skene models seem to work the same but the ADV also has a remote and is cheaper, so I would be leaning towards the ADV one, unless, I am overlooking some advantage to the Skene ?

I'm going with the ADV controller and these lights: https://stores.advmonster.com/model-30-led-off-road-spot-light/

I want to be seen during the day and have a little extra light for the rare occasion when I ride after dark

 

[ionbeam]

I'm using the ADV wireless (waterproof) key fob with ADV LEDs. I have it clipped to 'stuff' on the left handlebar for easy access. I find that I have a summer setting for the low beam brightness and a winter setting because it's dark going to work and coming home so I don't need the same brightness as summer where it's light both ways. Once set I rarely make adjustments. When I turn on the hi beams it triggers the LEDs to 100% output = stadium lighting. The power controller is stashed under the cowling and there is no need to route wires through the plastic.

 

[escapefjrtist]

<snip> So the next question....the ADV and Skene models seem to work the same but the ADV also has a remote and is cheaper, so I would be leaning towards the ADV one, unless, I am overlooking some advantage to the Skene ?

Not familiar with the ADV unit so can't comment on it. All I can say, the Skene is small, easy to use and has been bullet-proof for me. If the quality is the same (Skene is USA made), probably can't go wrong with either one.

--G

 

[900gc]

I'm using the ADV wireless (waterproof) key fob with ADV LEDs. I have it clipped to 'stuff' on the left handlebar for easy access. I find that I have a summer setting for the low beam brightness and a winter setting because it's dark going to work and coming home so I don't need the same brightness as summer where it's light both ways. Once set I rarely make adjustments. When I turn on the hi beams it triggers the LEDs to 100% output = stadium lighting. The power controller is stashed under the cowling and there is no need to route wires through the plastic.

I like this idea more and more. I could velcro the fob to a convenient spot so if I had to make adjustments, the buttons on the fob would act as the 'dial' so I'm getting the convenience I was searching for.

 

[Jim Winterer]

That one is not waterproof^, plus I don't think it will handle the big guys like a pair of CW Erica's.
But this one is w full detent. It's pricey however!

<<But this one is w full detent. It's pricey however!>>

One year later, I'm looking for a simple rotary dimmer switch to control a pair of LEDRider LX5 lights, The one above (hyperlinked above) looks like what I'm looking for. Note that LEDRider no longer carries the simple rotary dimmer, and I am not interested in the Skene dimmer.

I have a couple questions and wonder if anyone can help.

This dimmer from Creative Lighting Solutions is rated at 8 amp or "12 amps non confined." The LX5 lights are rated at 4 amps(50 watts) each. Do you think the dimmer is hefty enough to control both the lights. Looks like I'm right at the edge. I'm not sure what "12 amps non confined" means.

Also, do you think I need a relay with this dimmer?

And finally, do you think it is relatively waterproof. I'm not sure where I'd mount it and I guess I'd have to see what it looks like.

Comments appreciated; thanks.

Jim Winterer

St. Paul, Minnesota

 

[Powerman]

Non-confined is open to air for cooling.