LIN3 as auxiliary brake light

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These below are what I'm currently using on my Beemer (I use a 10.5" smoked tubed-one, in red, mounted just under my tail-rack). I've tried about 50 different LED strips etc. These are 'THE VERY BEST' (strip wise). They also cost the most of any I've tried. Man, this is just too familiar in the M/C world, better always costs more, darn-it!
I've always been very partial to Radiantz stuff, but the problem I frequently had with the AMP'd style FLEX strips was the cap coming loose. Did they ever really solve that? I always ended up having to place some silicone in the tip to keep it held in.

They used those on a custom run/turn/brake light outfit I had for my Kawasaki Meanstreak. And YES, they were bright enough to be easily seen, even in the day time.

 
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These below are what I'm currently using on my Beemer (I use a 10.5" smoked tubed-one, in red, mounted just under my tail-rack). I've tried about 50 different LED strips etc. These are 'THE VERY BEST' (strip wise). They also cost the most of any I've tried. Man, this is just too familiar in the M/C world, better always costs more, darn-it!
I've always been very partial to Radiantz stuff, but the problem I frequently had with the AMP'd style FLEX strips was the cap coming loose. Did they ever really solve that? I always ended up having to place some silicone in the tip to keep it held in.

They used those on a custom run/turn/brake light outfit I had for my Kawasaki Meanstreak. And YES, they were bright enough to be easily seen, even in the day time.
You're spot-on mate. The end caps are the weak link, and I have done the exact same .02 trick you mentioned. :)

But, that being said. Amp'd Flex LED strips are 'THE' best strips on the market (to date of course), a little tweak like this is not even a mention as to how awesome they are.

* I do wanna point out going back to the LIN3, I only mentioned "If you wanna take this to the next level". You don't have to do my enhancement^^^^^ but, it does make use of the LED 99% more of your driving time. So use it 1% (a very important 1% however) or use it 100% of your driving time. Your call, I'm not forcing anyone to do it, but it does work perfectly once you get your desired impedance on the resistor.

-KJ

 
An even more effective strategy might be to use the LIN3 or other small, super bright LED as the 3rd brake light, and then use some larger area, lower intensity illumination for your night time conspicuity, so as not to reduce the effectiveness of the LIN3 brake light.

Many of us have the 3M retroreflective decals, either on the rear of the sadlebags or the sides of he bike, which do a great job of illuminating your bike at night without any wiring or need to turn them on and off. However they would be somewhat counterproductive to TopSpeed's goal of increased stealth to LIDAR, as any increased light reflectivity is going to make it even easier for the police to get a reflected laser fix.

I would be interested in partricipating in a discussion of Infra Red LED use if someone wants to start another thread.

 
I would be interested in partricipating in a discussion of Infra Red LED use if someone wants to start another thread.
I'll possibly participate, but not starting this one, no sir!

Since this site is nationwide and this technology (or use of) is not legal everywhere... and, I already have enough legality issue/stuff to deal with on a daily basis (at my B&M store), I'll waive someone else the green flag to start this one.

I'm already doing this on both my bike and one of my cars. I have a State Trooper friend that I've tested this with more than a year ago, and, to his wording and recommendation (upon my testing w him and his cruiser) "You should keep this under-wraps".

 
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I've been considering doing this set up, but using the Skene IQ-160TS and 2 of the whelens side-by-side. Has anyone tried or thought of doing this? As usual, I'd love to see it in action before doing it!

 
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I've been considering doing this set up, but using the Skene IQ-160TS and 2 of the whelens side-by-side. Has anyone tried or thought of doing this? As usual, I'd love to see it in action before doing it!
Not yet.. but my next purchase is a set of Skene's for the front and then a set for the rear (yellow front, red rear). I'm still looking at some additional light for rear turn signals - haven't really decided on what I want to get yet for that.

 
The Skenes with the regular tail lights they offer are great. I had them on my RT previously. I rescued the front LED controller from the RT, but the rear lights were more hard-wired in so I didn't bother, hence my interest in trying out the whelens.

 
The Skenes with the regular tail lights they offer are great. I had them on my RT previously. I rescued the front LED controller from the RT, but the rear lights were more hard-wired in so I didn't bother, hence my interest in trying out the whelens.
The controller itself should work fine for the Whelen light controller, if that was what you were referring to. Me personally, I want the Whelen off until it comes on. Strictly as an auxiliary "in your face" brake light. I'll use the Skene's as extra running lights for the rear.

 
Was gonna build up a diode/resistor set up for my new LIN3, but couldn't find resistors at my local radio shack above 100 ohms.

Called a buddy of mine, who has been an electronics geek since his days of doing repair work on PC3's in the Navy....he currently is a systems engineer at a television station.

Explained to him what I wanted to do, and the first thing he said is "Use a Pulse Width Modulator".

He obtained the electronic specs on the LIN3, and is gonna put a module together for me with a potentiometer so I can adjust the current flow to the "Run light".

Will post up once I get it installed and tested.

 
Was gonna build up a diode/resistor set up for my new LIN3, but couldn't find resistors at my local radio shack above 100 ohms.
csi,

Yep, RadShak is not what it once was, for parts. Try these folks, instead. Each company will have their strong suits, but Digikey has seldom failed to have whatever separate components I needed, and at fair prices. They seem to have everything. Frys will often do better with sub-assemblies and complete modules. Most of these places have fairly competent Tech Support (often by phone), so let them help you with the choices available.

https://www.digikey.com

https://www.jameco.com

https://www.mouser.com

https://www.frys.com

https://www.alliedelec.com/

Cheers,

Infrared

 
Was gonna build up a diode/resistor set up for my new LIN3, but couldn't find resistors at my local radio shack above 100 ohms.
Called a buddy of mine, who has been an electronics geek since his days of doing repair work on PC3's in the Navy....he currently is a systems engineer at a television station.

Explained to him what I wanted to do, and the first thing he said is "Use a Pulse Width Modulator".

He obtained the electronic specs on the LIN3, and is gonna put a module together for me with a potentiometer so I can adjust the current flow to the "Run light".

Will post up once I get it installed and tested.

image_21816.jpg
Enlarge Image


Trucks Part Number: 90655 Brake Attention Module
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DESCRIPTION



  • Upon Applying the Brakes
  • This Electronic Device Rapidly Flashes the Third Brake Light (Or Both Brake Lights)
  • For a Second or Two to Gain the Attention of the Driver Behind You
  • Easy Hookup Instruction Included, 12 Volt

DETAILS Dimensions No Warranty 6 Months Pack 1 Pc/Card Part Number 90655


This is what you need to go with your LIN 3. I have both. Works great.

 
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Was gonna build up a diode/resistor set up for my new LIN3, but couldn't find resistors at my local radio shack above 100 ohms.
Called a buddy of mine, who has been an electronics geek since his days of doing repair work on PC3's in the Navy....he currently is a systems engineer at a television station.

Explained to him what I wanted to do, and the first thing he said is "Use a Pulse Width Modulator".

He obtained the electronic specs on the LIN3, and is gonna put a module together for me with a potentiometer so I can adjust the current flow to the "Run light".

Will post up once I get it installed and tested.

image_21816.jpg
Enlarge Image


Trucks Part Number: 90655 Brake Attention Module
Print This PageEmail This Page


DESCRIPTION



  • Upon Applying the Brakes
  • This Electronic Device Rapidly Flashes the Third Brake Light (Or Both Brake Lights)
  • For a Second or Two to Gain the Attention of the Driver Behind You
  • Easy Hookup Instruction Included, 12 Volt

DETAILS Dimensions No Warranty 6 Months Pack 1 Pc/Card Part Number 90655


This is what you need to go with your LIN 3. I have both. Works great.
I have the same setup (Lin3 and module), yes, works great!

 
I took my LIN3 to the next level, added a running light function to it. So (for the last 3 yrs I guess) it's been dual purpose! Lower output for running, full high for brake.
Parts needed (Radio Shack; if you don't have these already, and a couple of bucks total at best and I have left overs somewhere that I would be glad to give away to someone, just have NO friggen idea where they got put!).

(2) 5A Diodes, (1) 12v, 1w 500-600 ohm Resistor

(12v Running Light Feed)---------[5A Diode| ]----------[1w 12v 500-600ohm Resistor]----}------/to LED light (combined w below wire)

(12v Brake Light Feed)------------[5A Diode| ]-----------------------------------------------------}------/to LED light (combined w above wire)

Just note on wiring in the Diode, there is a striped side (denoted as | above), this is the anode and needs to be at the tail-end of the power flow. It works as a back door, basically power can't flow upwards of this and back into the other feed (circuit).

<edit> argh! after typing all that out, I figured there has to be a graphical image on this cuz... there's everything on the net, right?

dual_circuit_element.jpg


I used a different resistor is all, this will effect the running lights brightness. Play with it to your liking maybe? And yes, you can go and buy this premade for outrageous bucks. Since most of my friends here are frugal, this is your method and it works perfectly!

Enjoy!
I just did the install with the wiring setup that Top_Speed1 has described. I used a 150 ohm resistor. The difference between running light and brake is still very significant and the added running light function is great. It adds enough additional light that you are sure to be seen even when not on the brakes. I used the LIN3 to get a bit more visibility from angles and not just directly behind. This is a very simple mod to install and is completely worth it.

Thanks Top_Speed1 for putting up the directions and details!

Take Care,

Anthony

 
I have one also, FYI cover it with tape if you ride with a group, it's too bright for the rider following you.
I put a toggle switch under the pillion seat for that purpose, but I have to admit your idea is a good quick and dirty solution.

 
I have had the LIN3 w/ 3rd Brake Light Flasher on my bikes for the past 6 or 7 years. Put one on my 1st Gen FJR, put another on '04 Vstrom, and just put another on my 3rd Gen FJR when I bought it. It's one farkle I will never be without.

I've led many, many groups of riders, in both daylight and night time, and nobody has ever complained that it was too bright or distracting. However there were many that asked me how they could get one set up, after they saw mine.

I even installed an under seat switch on the first Gen because people warned me I might need it, but never used the switch once and omitted it on the subsequent ones.

 
Got the new Custom Dynamics universal flasher module in a while ago but just now got around to doing a short video of it. The mode it's using is the #6 (BlasterX for 3 seconds then solid).

 
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