Lowering links -LUST Racing

[VAcracker]

Anyone use Lust racing lowering links?

I received a set with a bike but no documentation.

They are supposed to be for Gen3 ES but no clue how much they lower the bike. The web site shows several versions

Multiple phone calls went to voice mail and multiple emails not been responded too. So I am unable to confirm these are ES model links and how much drop they provide.



Currently there is less than 4 1/4” clearance from lowest chassis part to the bench. Not sure where we lost an inch but we have the stock dog bones installed.

 

[VAcracker]

Anyone?

 

[Ignacio]

Anyone?

Did you search the forum? I see the answer is yes in at least three threads.

 

[keithq]

Two styles of lowering links. The ones you show, along with some from T-Rex racing are fixed length. So they lower only whatever the difference is between them and stock. Soupy's sells adjustable ones that you have to (carefully) twist or screw to set the lowering distance that you need. I have tried both on different bikes and prefer the ones that are adjustable. T-Rex also sells an adjustable one for the FJR. The difference between Soupy's and T-Rex is about 2 inches. SOupys can be twisted down I think up to 4 inches and T-Rex only 2". But for me, at 5'8 and a 30" inseam it makes the bike so I can flat foot it when I stop.

 

[VAcracker]

Two styles of lowering links. The ones you show, along with some from T-Rex racing are fixed length. So they lower only whatever the difference is between them and stock. Soupy's sells adjustable ones that you have to (carefully) twist or screw to set the lowering distance that you need. I have tried both on different bikes and prefer the ones that are adjustable. T-Rex also sells an adjustable one for the FJR. The difference between Soupy's and T-Rex is about 2 inches. SOupys can be twisted down I think up to 4 inches and T-Rex only 2". But for me, at 5'8 and a 30" inseam it makes the bike so I can flat foot it when I stop.

Thanks for the recommendation

I am hoping to identify the links I have are not only correct ones but how much drop they provide.

The wife is on tip toe and dropped the bike at a stop sign on wet pavement. She’sa trooper but has now shown a little interest in lowering the bike a little. Either via lower seat and or using some lowering links. She wants minimal suspension lowering if it can be avoided.

 

[Oldjeep]

Maybe put them on and see? It isn't a big deal to swap them out. Just be aware you will want to raise the fork tubes in the trees too so that the handling isn't wonky.

 

[keithq]

Thanks for the recommendation

I am hoping to identify the links I have are not only correct ones but how much drop they provide.

The wife is on tip toe and dropped the bike at a stop sign on wet pavement. She’sa trooper but has now shown a little interest in lowering the bike a little. Either via lower seat and or using some lowering links. She wants minimal suspension lowering if it can be avoided.

I still think the adjustable ones are far better. For my (briefly owned) 900GT, I could only find the solid links, which dropped an inch or so. Wasn't enough for me. When I sold it, I gave the originals to the buyer since he was taller!

https://www.t-rex-racing.com/2013-2020-Yamaha-FJR1300-Lowering-Link-p/ll69-13.htm

The links alone are about half the price of Soupy's but I would suggest also getting the adjustable kick stand since once lowered, the stock one will hold it too upright.

 

[TooManyBikes]

Had Soupy adjustable links on my 2012 FJR Blue Beauty. After installing them at stock length, I turned the turnbuckle two and four complete turns and measured the change in passenger foot peg height on both sides, while the bike was kept vertical. Result: The passenger foot pegs lowered 0.50 inches when the bolt holes were extended 0.31 inches (two turns) and 1.00 inches when the bolt holes were extended 0.63" (four turns).

Yes, if the bike is lowered in back, it needs to have the triple clamp slide down on the fork tubes also so the steering geometry is not affected. And if the bike is lowered very much, life is much easier with a shorter side stand (stability) and a 2x4 under the rear tire when trying to place bike on center stand (sweat).

 

[keithq]

Good point, forgot about the 2x4, which I also used to get the bike onto the center stand. On my current one, T-Rex also sells an adjustable center stand which makes the block of wood unnecessary.

 

[VAcracker]

Thanks for the great reference.

I have something to go by instead of making blind assumptions.

 

[keithq]

Thanks for the great reference.

I have something to go by instead of making blind assumptions.

Oh come on! As a male, you are entitled to some 'blind assumptions' now and then!

 

[VAcracker]

Oh come on! As a male, you are entitled to some 'blind assumptions' now and then!

Yes

However my wife is riding this bike and I don’t have her life insurance policy fully active yet.

 

[VAcracker]

Maybe put them on and see? It isn't a big deal to swap them out. Just be aware you will want to raise the fork tubes in the trees too so that the handling isn't wonky.

I was going to go this route but wanted to wait for some input before messing with it.

When I measured current ground clearance the point I measured was approximately an inch under stated factory even with the stock links. Plus I already bottomed out putting it on the lift so more info I get the better for deciding to do it or not.

 

[Oldjeep]

I was going to go this route but wanted to wait for some input before messing with it.

When I measured current ground clearance the point I measured was approximately an inch under stated factory even with the stock links. Plus I already bottomed out putting it on the lift so more info I get the better for deciding to do it or not.

Sounds like it is either already lowered or your rear shock is dead

 

[VAcracker]

Sounds like it is either already lowered or your rear shock is dead

It’s a 2016 with only 20k miles. Rides great so not sure it should be a dead rear shock. I thought/hope the issue getting on the lift was suspension set for single rider and me being over 200 lbs Riding it up. In ordered a longer lift ramp which reminds me it’s not arrived yet.

As for the measurement I took it was from the lift to bottom of the relay arm. Was that the incorrect spot for measuring ride height?

 

[Oldjeep]

I guess I have never seen ride height expressed as ground clearance. Most folks express it in terms of seat height.

 

[Super13]

Had Soupy adjustable links on my 2012 FJR Blue Beauty. After installing them at stock length, I turned the turnbuckle two and four complete turns and measured the change in passenger foot peg height on both sides, while the bike was kept vertical. Result: The passenger foot pegs lowered 0.50 inches when the bolt holes were extended 0.31 inches (two turns) and 1.00 inches when the bolt holes were extended 0.63" (four turns).

Yes, if the bike is lowered in back, it needs to have the triple clamp slide down on the fork tubes also so the steering geometry is not affected. And if the bike is lowered very much, life is much easier with a shorter side stand (stability) and a 2x4 under the rear tire when trying to place bike on center stand (sweat).

I have been using Kouba links for 10 years. 1" lower. Non-adjustable. I also had my welding shop shorten both side stand and center stand. Spirited riding two-up on the mountain roads I scrape just a little bit. Not a problem. Also slid the forks up an inch, but I wonder if that was necessary for safety. Lowering the rear would slow the steering; lowering the front would restore it. The Corbin seat also helped. These motorcycles are such a joy.