MISSFIRE ON 06A NOW A MAJOR PROBLEM CAN ANYONE HELP PLEASE?

[Fred H.]

Hey Max,

Just a thought..

Where do you live and what kind of gas are you using in the bike? Does it contain ethanol?

You may have water in your gas, which is not uncommom with ethanol blends. Empty the tank and refill it with gas from a station that you know doesn't have ethanol in it, and see if it helps.

 

[feejer222]

Hey Max,
Just a thought..

Where do you live and what kind of gas are you using in the bike? Does it contain ethanol?

You may have water in your gas, which is not uncommom with ethanol blends. Empty the tank and refill it with gas from a station that you know doesn't have ethanol in it, and see if it helps.

Thanks but its not that. I have been through that one before, I am pretty certain its not water.

Not sounding good this, and making my dealer sound worse by the minute. I will contact Yamaha.

 

[Fred H.]

Then I might be inclined to pull the plugs and look at them all, and also inspect the plug wires for any evidence of high voltage leaking (sometimes it will leave a white or grayish spot on the insulation with a pin hole).

A good dealer should be able to check for any diagnostic error codes from the ECM as well.

See if you can break the problem in half and then troubleshoot from there. It is probably either poor fire or poor gas delivery. If you can figure out which is the cause you are halfway home.

A valve check wouldn't hurt, as a tight valve can cause you to loose compression, though I wouldn't expect that to be an issue on a low mileage 06.

The usual items that fail on modern fuel injected systems are the sensors and/or the electrical conections to them. Things like the MAP, TPS, O2, coolant temp, and any other sensor that feeds the ECU could cause problems.

 

[feejer222]

Then I might be inclined to pull the plugs and look at them all, and also inspect the plug wires for any evidence of high voltage leaking (sometimes it will leave a white or grayish spot on the insulation with a pin hole).
A good dealer should be able to check for any diagnostic error codes from the ECM as well.

See if you can break the problem in half and then troubleshoot from there. It is probably either poor fire or poor gas delivery. If you can figure out which is the cause you are halfway home.

A valve check wouldn't hurt, as a tight valve can cause you to loose compression, though I wouldn't expect that to be an issue on a low mileage 06.

The usual items that fail on modern fuel injected systems are the sensors and/or the electrical conections to them. Things like the MAP, TPS, O2, coolant temp, and any other sensor that feeds the ECU could cause problems.

Thanks for the input Fred. Complicated situation, a decent mechanic with the right equipment should be able to sort it. Trouble is I feel like I am being practiced on.

 

[c2insa]

I know that the dealer that helped me with warranty issues told me about this same problem. Their consult with the Yamaha tech line had them change the CO settings to 25 on all cylinders.

You can try this and it will be easy with no chance of harm to the bike if it doesn't work. You don't complain about anything other than off-idle problems, so try this. Then call the yamaha customer service number when you have at least an hour to spend waiting on and between holds.

 

[feejer222]

I know that the dealer that helped me with warranty issues told me about this same problem. Their consult with the Yamaha tech line had them change the CO settings to 25 on all cylinders.
You can try this and it will be easy with no chance of harm to the bike if it doesn't work. You don't complain about anything other than off-idle problems, so try this. Then call the yamaha customer service number when you have at least an hour to spend waiting on and between holds.

Did you have exactly the same problem?

Did it work?

 

[c2insa]

no, I didn't have the same problem. I've experimented a bit with the CO settings and know that going +7 on all made a big difference when the bike is cold.

 

[jestal]

I would change the spark plugs before you do anything else.

There are cases in brand new engines where the spark plugs get carbon fouled from repeated cold starts without running the engine sufficiently to warm up the plugs and clean off the carbon. Like...starting it repeatedly in the dealer to "listen" to it or moving it outdoors and indoors. If the plugs carbon foul then the spark will arc down the porcelean and leave a little track etched in the porcelean. When the engine runs long enough to get the plugs hot the carbon burns off but the little etched track in the porcelean remains. This will subsequently cause driveability problems with potential stalls, hesitations off idle, rough idle and rough low RPM operation. The plug will look fine for color and cleanliness because the little etched track in the porcelean is nearly invisible. Just put new plugs in it before proceding.

This might or might not be the problem but I would eliminate it as a possiblity before going any further least you get things REALLY out of whack trying to fix an unfixable problem. New plugs are simple and relatively cheap and you can do them yourself to make sure they are done correctly.

 

[feejer222]

I have been in discussion with Yamaha customer services who are trying their best to fob me off. Rest assured this wont happen!!

Their official line is ......'It's a feature of that particular bike'

I have a mate who is the technician for one of the top BSB teams who's mate is the fuel injection specialist for a lot of the top teams including Foggy Petronas. I have spoken to him and he says that its because the new bikes are set up so lean to meet the emission laws. Reckons he can sort it in 15 minutes.

My dealer has had 2 attempts at it and has fitted a new Throttle Position Sensor. (Known as a TPS). The bike is still no different. he is getting another new FJR ready for someone else on Tuesday and is going to do a back to back comparrison. If that one does the same he reckons I will have to lump it. I will then wheel out my fuel injection specialist who is extremely well qualified (2 Cambridge firsts amongst other things). If they still wont play ball I will have to take them to court and use him as an expert witness.

I have had 32 bikes including this one, I am not imagining this misfire.

 

[co425]

Turn up your idle speed. Had the exact same problem thought that I had a fuel issue. Stuttered real bad off of idle. I turned my idle up about 100 to 150 rpm past the factory setting and wa la problem gone. These bikes seem to be real sensitive to idle speed. It is not a CO setting issue mine did the same thing with the CO settings changed. Late

 

[RacinRay]

I have mentioned before that I have an 06A. It has had a 'cough' at the very first crack of the throttle since the first mile. There is not a problem after that point, but it causes the engine to cut out occasionaly when pulling away. This is not a stall, it is on opening the throttle before the clutch has been released at all.

Also when revving the bike slowly, it missfires.

Once rolling the bike runs perfectly and has no other faults.

In an effort to cure it, the dealer has just changed the throttle position sensor. This made no difference. He also at the same time changed the CO's to 5. He set them at 5 himself after changing the TPS, I assume because he realised that the new TPS had not improved the problem.

He tells me that the standard setting is 12 and that the mechanic went out on the bike and changed the settings periodically until the problem improved.

I test rode the bike with the CO's at 5 and at 19. (We got to 19 having read on here that they should be plus 7 on standard??)

Neither setting made any difference whatsoever.

Is anyone else with an 06A having the same problem?

Can anyone help please?

My bike does the same thing. I think a power commander will do the trick.

 

[feejer222]

I have been contacted by Yamaha UK today. They have had my bike for about a week to try and resolve this problem.

They have checked the valve timing, the ignition system thoroughly, the injection system, and have re-set everything to Yamaha specification.

They have test ridden the bike for 100 miles and say that it has not cut out, but still has the cough when first opening the throttle.

It cut out 4 times on me in 1100 miles and then again outside the dealers as I was riding off after a new TPS had been fitted. I would say that a 100 mile test ride was not enough.

They now say that it still coughs if you open the throttle aggressively....so don't do it. Their answer is that it is what all FJR's do. But what if I want to open the throttle aggressively?

YAMAHA REFUSE POINT BLANK TO PUT ANY OF THIS IN WRITING

The cutting out problem nearly caused me to drop the bike in the middle of the road whilst turning right with my wife on the back. It could have been horrific had I not been able to hold the bike up.

My dealer has just sold anothe which he said had the same cough but the owner is happy with it????

I have contacted another Yamaha dealer who has said that he has a demonstrator which also has cut out on him 4 times in 1000 miles. Between this forum and another FJR forum there are about 10 others who have the same problem. (From The UK, Australia, USA and Holland. How many more must there be? How many complaints must Yamaha be having and trying to fob off.

I intend to make a case of this. If you have had similar problems please mail me with your details and story at

[email protected]

make the ref FJR problems

Yamaha have obviously made changes to this bike that didnt work.

 

[GAPS]

Turn up your idle speed. Had the exact same problem thought that I had a fuel issue. Stuttered real bad off of idle. I turned my idle up about 100 to 150 rpm past the factory setting and wa la problem gone. These bikes seem to be real sensitive to idle speed. It is not a CO setting issue mine did the same thing with the CO settings changed. Late

Im with CO425, Try setting idle to aprox 1100 rpm, this is nice on my 06A, cured the stall and some of the off idle snatch too.

 

[Ride1300cc]

Turn up your idle speed. Had the exact same problem thought that I had a fuel issue. Stuttered real bad off of idle. I turned my idle up about 100 to 150 rpm past the factory setting and wa la problem gone. These bikes seem to be real sensitive to idle speed. It is not a CO setting issue mine did the same thing with the CO settings changed. Late

Im with CO425, Try setting idle to aprox 1100 rpm, this is nice on my 06A, cured the stall and some of the off idle snatch too.

My new 07 has 1,500 mi on it and it has cut out for for 30sec maybe a little longer 3 times. Each of the times the bike was fully warmed up. The first time I was in high gear going down hill at low RPM on a cold day at the time I just down shifted got the rpms up and it went away. The next time was in 3rd gear at 4,500 rpm going through the turns it just went away after about a mile. The same day about a 100 mi later it did it again. Not sure what to make of it for the most part the bike feels like it runs real good.

 

[chickey191]

I had the exact same problem - stalling or cutting out from a stop. Didn't much matter if warm or not.

I fixed it with the following:

1. Adjusted idle speed to 1100 rpm

2. Throttle body sync - I will guarantee you that most any shop when looking at throttle bodies syncronization will tell you the bike is within spec and they will be telling you the truth. However - the spec is just too wide and you can dial it in to much closer tolerances.

3. Barbarian mod with +5 on each cylinder.

smooth as a baby's butt now though I might either pull one of the throttle springs or install that throttle modification cam.

but the bike no longer stalls.

 

[FJRottie]

1. Adjusted idle speed to 1100 rpm2. Throttle body sync - I will guarantee you that most any shop when looking at throttle bodies syncronization will tell you the bike is within spec and they will be telling you the truth. However - the spec is just too wide and you can dial it in to much closer tolerances.

That improved the throttle whack on my 04 as well a few years back. New bikes are basically set up lean and wimpy.

I have never done the Barbarian mod or put on a PC, no need.

I know 06s and up are different than previous, but in general, I think huge dividends are paid by adjusting your idle speed and doing your own TBS. Most dealer techs just follow the manuals and don't care about the little things.

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

I had the exact same problem - stalling or cutting out from a stop. Didn't much matter if warm or not.I fixed it with the following:

1. Adjusted idle speed to 1100 rpm

2. Throttle body sync - I will guarantee you that most any shop when looking at throttle bodies syncronization will tell you the bike is within spec and they will be telling you the truth. However - the spec is just too wide and you can dial it in to much closer tolerances.

3. Barbarian mod with +5 on each cylinder.

smooth as a baby's butt now though I might either pull one of the throttle springs or install that throttle modification cam.

but the bike no longer stalls.

Exactly my experience and plans to date, except I went +7 on the Barbarian mod.

Next is new throttle cam, pull a throttle spring or PCIII

Overall I'm happy with performance at this point, but would love to have it "perfect"

 

[FJRRIPP]

How much did we pay for these quality machines? Take the damn thing to the dealer and tell them to make it right, or take it back. Don’t you think that for 16 large we shouldn’t have to worry about dumping our wives off the back because of miss fire’s and stalls? It’s the consumer’s acceptance of inadequacy that allows it to continue and grow. I guess I am lucky (so far) as my ‘06A does nothing but launch when I twist the wrist.

Ripp

 

[Bounce]

see other's posts. the tbsync can be within spec but you can do it better by spending as little as 30 minutes fine tuning it. OR you can spend hours, days, weeks, or more banging heads with a dealership trying to tell them that the specs are too wide and they should listen to you instead of their shop manual, spend more time on it than billable for the book rate, and thank you for it with a smile the whole time.

which will it be?

 

[FJRRIPP]

see other's posts. the tbsync can be within spec but you can do it better by spending as little as 30 minutes fine tuning it. OR you can spend hours, days, weeks, or more banging heads with a dealership trying to tell them that the specs are too wide and they should listen to you instead of their shop manual, spend more time on it than billable for the book rate, and thank you for it with a smile the whole time.
which will it be?

I think you missed my point; and that you are assuming that this fine gentleman’s problem is tbsync. He obviously has tried that and many other tweaks. Let's make the people that are supposed to be the experts accountable for their product. Or spend hours, days, and weeks trying to figure out what they screwed up in the first place. If you order a steak and get a cheeseburger do you scrape the cheese off and accept it as a steak? Come on people quit tucking tail. Stand up and make them accountable, or continue to be frustrated with mediocrity. I did read the entire post; twice.

Ripp