My Clutch is not working - after I replaced parts

[birkdale10]

2005 FJr. I have been having minor clutch problems for a while, and I thought I would do an at-home fix.

(I have mentioned this before in my previous posts: I am a crappy mechanic)

I got all the parts that fit in the clutch lever. If you have access to an exploded diagram of the clutch (Front master cylinder 2), I bought

.Cylinder Kit, Master Clutch 5JW-W0099-00-00

.Rod, Push 3GM-26464-00-00
.Bush 3GM-26455-00-00
I am POSITIVE I installed them correctly, in the right order.

I then started using the mityvac. And I have gone through half a bottle of Dot 4 fluid. I have checked the clutch pull and it 'seems' fine. Not too hard, not too soft. I start it in neutral and starts fine. I pull the lever and push it into gear - either down for first or up for second. It clunks and dies. The clutch is simply not working.

One of the parts on the master clutch kit is the outer rubber boot. It is the outermost part of that kit. The Push Rod goes into that. QUESTION: The push rod is a rod that has two...I'm not sure what to call them...not grooves, but two circles around the rod. It LOOKS as if the end of the rubber boot is supposed to go into the gap between the two circles. That is what I have done. Is this the correct thing to do?

When I was removing the old parts, this boot I just talked about is worn. The new one is noticably firmer. The old one's rubber is much more soft and pliable.

I am desperate for help. I would be happy to give someone a phone number if they thought they could help me figure this out tonight.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Sometimes you have to crack the banjo fittings and bleed them out first.

 

[kaitsdad]

try using a ty wrap or velcro, or just a wrapped bunji cord to hold the clutch lever in overnight. This will allow any small bubbles to float out.

Every time I bleed the clutch on an FJR, I use this technique.

 

[wfooshee]

So it's actually going into gear and stalling?

Does the bike lurch from the gear engagement, or does the engine simply shut off? You might actually be looking at a bad or disconnected sidestand switch. If the ground connection from the switch with the sidestand up is not present, the engine will not run in gear.

If it goes into gear and stalls because there's no throttle and the clutch is driving the transmission, the bike will lurch before it stalls. If it just kills the engine, it's electrical.

There's a switch on the clutch lever, but its only function is to enable starting while in gear. That switch is irrelevant once started.

Let's check that switch..... Sidestand up, bike in first, clutch lever out, starter should be disabled, starter button does nothing. Now pull the clutch lever and try the starter. Be ready to let go of the starter button. Starter should engage. If it does, and the bike lurches, then you have a physical clutch problem. If you still have no starter, then you have an issue with the switch on the clutch lever, or still the aforementioned sidestand switch. The clutch switch should not be able to kill the motor once it's started, though, while the sidestand switch can.

It comes down to if the bike jumps when you put it in gear. Yes, something clutch. No, something electrical.

 

[mcatrophy]

<Deleted, redundant post, point already covered>

 

[SkooterG]

What happens if you try to start the bike in gear, with the clutch pulled in?

 

[birkdale10]

So it's actually going into gear and stalling?
Does the bike lurch from the gear engagement, or does the engine simply shut off? You might actually be looking at a bad or disconnected sidestand switch. If the ground connection from the switch with the sidestand up is not present, the engine will not run in gear.

Feces and fornication, other 4-letter words. I am at work, bike is in garage, so I cannot check. The bike is on the centerstand. But, I am almost positive that the sidestand is ... DOWN.

Aaarggghhhh.

I am a lousy mechanic. Just filthy lousy. I am really a good systems analyst/programmer. Honest.

 

[mcatrophy]

So it's actually going into gear and stalling?

Does the bike lurch from the gear engagement, or does the engine simply shut off? You might actually be looking at a bad or disconnected sidestand switch. If the ground connection from the switch with the sidestand up is not present, the engine will not run in gear.

Feces and fornication, other 4-letter words. I am at work, bike is in garage, so I cannot check. The bike is on the centerstand. But, I am almost positive that the sidestand is ... DOWN.

Aaarggghhhh.

I am a lousy mechanic. Just filthy lousy. I am really a good systems analyst/programmer. Honest.

Don't fret it, we've all done similar sillies. The usual is "It won't start" - kill switch set. Just be thankful it's not Friday
Please post to confirm all is ok.

 

[dcarver]

ooooh, please DO wait until Friday to tell us!

 

[birkdale10]

I will not wait until Friday.

I found out that my Harley Davidson Insurance (Safeco) provides a towing service. I got in touch with the closest bike shop and told them my problem. They said: get it there before 6pm,and we'll look at it. I got a wrecker scheduled, got everything ready, got home, went out to make sure the I did NOT have the sidestand down (DID NOT! Yay!). Just for the heck of it, started it, grabbed clutch, shifted to 1st... and it shifted to first. On the centerstand, shifted to 2nd, 3rd,...all the way to 6th gear.

Took it off the centerstand and tried again. Rode out onto the driveway, down the street. Works just exactly like it should. Kaitsdad sort of suggested that the bubbles would fly upwards, and I guess they did. Cancelled wrecker, cancelled the shop.

I am still a sucky mechanic. But the official description for this sort of thing in the data processing world is 'TWA' = trouble went away.

 

[Old Guy]

Jeez, I love a happy ending :sniffle:

 

[rbentnail]

I am still a sucky mechanic. But the official description for this sort of thing in the data processing world is 'TWA' = trouble went away.

I'll not argue the first point. You repeated it often enough that I believe you

. As to the second point: in the manufacturing electronical world we call it IBB. It'll be back......

 

[Donal]

You might be able to find something in here to cover it.........

After every flight, Qantas Airlines pilots fill out a form called a gripe sheet, which conveys to the mechanics problems encountered with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or correction. The mechanics read and correct the problem, and then respond in writing on the lower half of the form what remedial action was taken, and the pilot reviews the gripe sheets before the next flight. Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack a sense of humor.

Here are some supposedly actual logged maintenance complaints and problems as submitted by Qantas pilots and the solution as recorded by Qantas maintenance engineers.

By the way, Qantas is the only major airline that has never had an accident.

(P = The problem logged by the pilot.)
(S = The solution and action taken by the engineers.)

P: Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
S: Almost replaced left inside main tyre.

P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.

P: Something loose in cockpit.

S: Something tightened in cockpit.

P: Dead bugs on windshield.
S: Live bugs on backorder.

P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent.
S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.

P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
S: Evidence removed.

P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
S: DME volume set to more believable level.

P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
S: That's what they're there for.

P: IFF inoperative.
S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.

P: Suspected crack in windshield.
S: Suspect you're right.

P: Number 3 engine missing.
S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.

P: Aircraft handles funny.
S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious.

P: Target radar hums.
S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.

P: Mouse in cockpit.
S: Cat installed.

P: Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on something with a hammer.
S: Took hammer away from midget.