New to FJR... whats up with the gearbox?

[rnat53]

I have had my 07' since last August. It runs pretty smooth, but the clutch/throttle is a little jerky, but I discovered something on a ride over Sonora Pass a few days ago. If I kept the power range between 5 and 6k in second and third, the throttle smoothed out and the power was delivered more evenly. My question is, is this going to cause me problems riding like this? Also, shifting from first to second sounds like shaking a bag of rocks. Also, a problem?

 

[escapefjrtist]

Model years '06 & '07 had some issues with abrupt throttle transitions. If you haven't done so, consider installing a G2 throttle tube to smooth the transition a bit. Another thing to try is increase the idle sped to at least 1100 RPM which will help with the clunky shifting.

Other than that, spend more $$$ for a PCIII or PCV if the fueling really bothers you. No issues riding like you've described, you're in the meat of the power band...

-G

 

[302]

Check this out.

FJRF004 - Altitude Sickness (2006/2007 Bikes)

 

[TwilightZone]

>" It runs pretty smooth, but the clutch/throttle is a little jerky,"

Don't have a power commander ? Add one.

Went for nearly a year on my 2007. I was ready to sell bike, (lumpy throttle response)

then I added the PC. Makes it into a new bike.

 

[bluesdog]

You might also want to bleed and refresh the clutch, check the brass pivot bushing on the clutch lever, and lube the shift linkage.

This should be an annual service, and you may find it does wonders for shifting.

An Unauthorized TBS may help with the throttle smoothness coming off idle.

 

[leedavis]

The 1st to 2nd shift with these transmissions isn't very smooth and if you try to finesse it that only makes it worse. Shift decisively to minimize the issue. Don't sweat it - the transmission is tough.

As recommended in previous posts, I had to do the throttle tube and get a Power Commander to correct the abrupt, non-linear throttle response and, out-of-the-box, my 04 is better in that regard than the notorious 07. IMO, it's what's required if you want to truly fix the problem once and for all.

 

[JimNtexas]

I don't want to teach grandma to suck eggs, but be sure to NOT use car motor oil in your FJR, as this will mess up the wet clutch.

 

[SoCalFJR1300]

I don't want to teach grandma to suck eggs, but be sure to NOT use car motor oil in your FJR, as this will mess up the wet clutch.

As long as the label on the oil doesn't say "ENERGY CONSERVING" he shouldn't have any issues.

 

[Bugnatr]

I don't want to teach grandma to suck eggs, but be sure to NOT use car motor oil in your FJR, as this will mess up the wet clutch.

Geez all those years I used Mobil 1 without any issues, sorry grandma.

 

[Graham Downunder]

Raise the idle to 1100RPM , Unwinder the throttle spring if it stiff ( it may have already been done ) ,G2 throttle tube , then see how it is at low speed ( below 3,000 RPM ) . Next try an Unauthorized TBS it may help with the throttle smoothness coming off idle. Some bikes believe it or not actually need a good hard run in the midrange in second and third round some corners before the rider can actually smile !!!

 

[Bounce]

Mobile 1 15w50 is a high enough viscosity that it doesn't have the friction modifiers you want to avoid. Used it for years without an issue.

This symbol is okay.

Avoid oils with this notation.

 

[bluesdog]

Another thing: I discovered that 'pre-loading' the up-shifts makes 'em smoother/faster. Put some pressure on the shift lever before pulling the clutch, and the shift itself becomes almost effortlessly smooth, and much quicker and quieter.