nightmare continues

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syd justice

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well after breaking off the spark plug a few days ago, i continue to have problems. i was so relieved when i was able back out the plug thread that i knew everything else would be smooth sailing. i waited a couple of days to start back on the bike, i am recovering from minor eye surgery and do not have to be back at work for another day or two, so i was in no real hurry. so yesterday i finnish removing and installing the new plugs with anti seize lub. spark plug caps back on and i am ready to fire the bike up. i had briefly fired her up before i started on the plugs after i change the oil and final drive oil, like always she fired right up. after the plugs when i hit the starter she whined on and on but never turned over. i tried again later with WOT for 15 seconds and then a break for a couple of minutes and then tried another 15 sec and shut her down. the bike will not turn over, i can not think of any thing i have done to create this problem. so before i go out and pull the plugs and start over i thought i would asked for advice. P.S i should have wait to do this project at full strength, but i thought since i had a little time on my hands. thank syd justice

 
First, lets get something out of the way, you say the starter whines but the bike doesn't turn over...

Do you mean the starter is running and turning the engine, but the engine is not firing? Or do you mean the starter is making some noise, but the engine is not rotating?

If the engine is turning but not starting, it may be flooded, and I've heard of people having this problem after running the bike very briefly, and it should either go away with time, or start after being cranked WOT for a time (crank for a bit and take breaks to avoid overheating the starter motor).

If the starter is spinning but not turning the motor, we have a totally different set of problems...

 
Yes, the terms used are confusing but I've got enough south in me to know that the engine is being spun by the starter and the engine will not start.

First let me say that if the red run/stop switch on the handlebar is off, the starter will not spin. Same is true of the side-stand/gear/neutral interlock, if there is a problem the starter will not spin. Your failure to start is related to something in or on your engine.

You did the right thing by trying WOT cranking, though you may not have persisted at it long enough. Also, be sure that the engine is being spun at normal starting speed. You may need to recharge the battery. A cold engine likes lots of cranking speed and at least 10.5-10.75 volts while cranking.

Most anti-seize compounds are conductive, if you got any on the electrodes of the plugs it can prevent them from working properly. You can use the diAG mode to fire coils #1 and #2, you should be able to hear the plugs strongly pop. If you fail to hear strong popping noises it would be a good indication that the plugs are not working. Could be the anti-seize or could be plug wires. When you popped off the plug caps you pulled ONLY on the caps, right? The plug wires screw into the cap so it is no biggie if this needs repair.

I just gotsta ask, is your tank propped up and perhaps uncovering the fuel pickup on the fuel pump so there is no fuel flow? And to this end, can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on? Again, you can test the fuel pump via the diAG screen. It's not unheard of to forget connectors and such...

 
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Along the lines of the pinched fuel line...you should be able to smell un-combusted fuel coming out of the muffler (I suggest getting a helper to inhale the deadly fumes though). If the fuel smell is very strong, it can indicate flooding, but the WOT should fix that, I believe.

 
well after breaking off the spark plug a few days ago, i continue to have problems. i was so relieved when i was able back out the plug thread that i knew everything else would be smooth sailing. i waited a couple of days to start back on the bike, i am recovering from minor eye surgery and do not have to be back at work for another day or two, so i was in no real hurry. so yesterday i finnish removing and installing the new plugs with anti seize lub. spark plug caps back on and i am ready to fire the bike up.
Are you absolutely sure you got the spark plug boots back on properly? They go back on with a distinctive 'feeback', whether you hear it click or feel it click on. Its quite easy to give the boots a push and not have them connected properly.

This brings up something else.. when you REMOVED the spark plug boots, did you tug on the wires or pull on the boots themselves. You may have damaged one or more of them if you just yanked on the wires.

Mental Note; never let syd anywhere near your bike.

Edit: Dammit, treading on Alan's suggestions.. finish reading the thread Steve..

 
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thanks to all. yes the motor is turning.

as far as the caps are concerned, i pull on the plugs but they were in tight so it is possible i pull out the wires.

after i lub the plugs i cleaned them with a q-tip and alcohol.

it had been three days since i fired her up after changing the oils, so i would not think she was flooded. i would have contiude trying to start her but i did not think the battery would take much more.

last i had the gas tank back on the bike without any bolts back in. and i did not smell gas in the garage while trying to start the bike.

 
Yes, the terms used are confusing but I've got enough south in me to know that the engine is being spun by the starter and the engine will not start.

:lol: :lol: :lol: Nice stuff there Alan. Always wondered how you wuz able to communicate wif Howie an the rest of 'em

:jester:

 
well after breaking off the spark plug a few days ago, i continue to have problems. i was so relieved when i was able back out the plug thread that i knew everything else would be smooth sailing. i waited a couple of days to start back on the bike, i am recovering from minor eye surgery and do not have to be back at work for another day or two, so i was in no real hurry. so yesterday i finnish removing and installing the new plugs with anti seize lub. spark plug caps back on and i am ready to fire the bike up.
Are you absolutely sure you got the spark plug boots back on properly? They go back on with a distinctive 'feeback', whether you hear it click or feel it click on. Its quite easy to give the boots a push and not have them connected properly.

This brings up something else.. when you REMOVED the spark plug boots, did you tug on the wires or pull on the boots themselves. You may have damaged one or more of them if you just yanked on the wires.

Mental Note; never let syd anywhere near your bike.

Edit: Dammit, treading on Alan's suggestions.. finish reading the thread Steve..

thanks for the vote of confidence. yes the plug caps are on nice and tight.

 
Yes, the terms used are confusing but I've got enough south in me to know that the engine is being spun by the starter and the engine will not start.

:lol: :lol: :lol: Nice stuff there Alan. Always wondered how you wuz able to communicate wif Howie an the rest of 'em

:jester:
Yesser, Bama boy. Selma. Did time in Selma, Birmingham twice, Atlanta, Shreveport, Fort Stockton and then I got really south and did a few year in Arecibo, Pureto Rico.

 
Yes, the terms used are confusing but I've got enough south in me to know that the engine is being spun by the starter and the engine will not start.
First let me say that if the red run/stop switch on the handlebar is off, the starter will not spin. Same is true of the side-stand/gear/neutral interlock, if there is a problem the starter will not spin. Your failure to start is related to something in or on your engine.

You did the right thing by trying WOT cranking, though you may not have persisted at it long enough. Also, be sure that the engine is being spun at normal starting speed. You may need to recharge the battery. A cold engine likes lots of cranking speed and at least 10.5-10.75 volts while cranking.

Most anti-seize compounds are conductive, if you got any on the electrodes of the plugs it can prevent them from working properly. You can use the diAG mode to fire coils #1 and #2, you should be able to hear the plugs strongly pop. If you fail to hear strong popping noises it would be a good indication that the plugs are not working. Could be the anti-seize or could be plug wires. When you popped off the plug caps you pulled ONLY on the caps, right? The plug wires screw into the cap so it is no biggie if this needs repair.

I just gotsta ask, is your tank propped up and perhaps uncovering the fuel pickup on the fuel pump so there is no fuel flow? And to this end, can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on? Again, you can test the fuel pump via the diAG screen. It's not unheard of to forget connectors and such...

i pull one plug and it is clean and dry. i tried to do the diAG #30: if i am doing it correctly the top set of # were 00 the down set 30. turn on/off & back, the warning light flash for a few seconds but i could not hear the plugs fire.

i pulled one of the plug caps and could not see how the wire connect, the cap is solid molded rubber. any help here would be great.

 
When you turn on the key do you hear the fuel pump running? If not you may have accidentally pulled the plug on the pump.

 
Syd,

I read your other thread too and I was really happy that the fine folks on the Forum got you through your issues. I was sweating and feeling your pain.

And now this thread. You appear to be cursed. But you are doing the right thing, take a deep breath and ask for help. I am here to remind you that we are all hoping you are successful.

When I go to battle with an engine that won't fire, I get some of that Starter Fluid stuff and try to spray it where it will do some good (air cleaner, right into the carb, right into the cyclinder, whatever) (I call it engine cocaine). I try and rule out the whole fuel issue.

When the FJR was new'ish, I got the Battery Tender thing and hooked it up to the battery (hardwired it to the battery) and left the quick connect end kinda on the right side of where the key goes into the bike. It is a snap to hook the Battery Tender to the bike. And, note that the Battery Tender is really a low amp charger. Christmas is coming so ask Santa for a Battery Tender.

That is my 1 cent contribution to your problem.

Now, please go get the FJR running so I have a good reason to drink a beer (not that I need one). Wishing you the best.

Art

 
Ok i just spoke with Syd and explained what the you guys were trying to convey to him......

He will look at it again tomorrow and all will be good again.

R

 
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Try adding a shot of propane directly into the air cleaner while you are cranking the engine over. If the engine starts (even for a few seconds) you know that the ignition system is working.

Adding propane completely bypass/eliminates the fuel system. This quick method of checking for a no start has been used for years in the automotive industry and no it won't start a fire or blow up your garage.

Good luck

 
Try adding a shot of propane directly into the air cleaner while you are cranking the engine over. If the engine starts (even for a few seconds) you know that the ignition system is working.
Adding propane completely bypass/eliminates the fuel system. This quick method of checking for a no start has been used for years in the automotive industry and no it won't start a fire or blow up your garage.

Good luck

Now, you expect me to believe .... if Bust had propane, and stuck the hose into the aircleaner box and cranked up his bike....

there wouldn't be some kind of explosion??!!!!!!

..... you must be huffing airplane fuel again........ :lol: :lol: :lol:

B

 
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