no start.... please help if you can

[FJRMaineiac]

I just got my '04 back from the shop with an ignition switch failure, but in my case, I got *nothing* when I turned the key - no dash lights, no fuel rail charging sounds, nothing. I also noticed that the switch felt "crunchy" for lack of a better term - just not a single definitive 'click' when turning the key from off to on. Now that the new switch is in I realize how bad the old one felt. It was one of those things that got progressively worse over time, but I didn't really notice it until it simply failed.

It would seem to me that the switch is at fault in your case then it would be either a 'go / no go' sort of thing - either the switch is making contact or it isn't. However, I suppose it is possible that the contacts are dirty. Too dirty to completely connect the circuit, but clean enough to let some (insufficient) current through. However, I am a mechanical engineer, not an electrical engineer and I am speaking out of my area of expertise.

Good luck.

 

[BigOgre]

Maybe just something to fiddle with in the meantime, I recall a factory zip-tie holding the wires at the bottom of the ignition switch sometimes causing tension on them. Maybe snip that off and then wiggle and push the wires while simultaneously hitting the starter. Just to see if anything different happens.

 

[Constant Mesh]

It should crank if the neutral light is lit. The 2nd low current circuit which passes through the ignition switch has no effect on cranking the engine.

All you need to crank the engine is the ignition switch on (instrument panel energized), kill switch flipped to run, neutral light lit, and starter pushbutton working OK.

The computer can't block cranking. It can block running but can't block cranking.

 

[wfooshee]

I just got my '04 back from the shop with an ignition switch failure, but in my case, I got *nothing* when I turned the key - no dash lights, no fuel rail charging sounds, nothing. I also noticed that the switch felt "crunchy" for lack of a better term - just not a single definitive 'click' when turning the key from off to on. Now that the new switch is in I realize how bad the old one felt. It was one of those things that got progressively worse over time, but I didn't really notice it until it simply failed.
It would seem to me that the switch is at fault in your case then it would be either a 'go / no go' sort of thing - either the switch is making contact or it isn't. However, I suppose it is possible that the contacts are dirty. Too dirty to completely connect the circuit, but clean enough to let some (insufficient) current through. However, I am a mechanical engineer, not an electrical engineer and I am speaking out of my area of expertise.

Good luck.

That would be the "primary" pole of the ignition switch, the one that applies power to the bike. The "secondary" pole is what I was referring to, that carries the ground from the neutral/clutch-switch/sidestand-switch circuits to the ECU. Two different circuits, two different effects when they're broken. Not sure about the response above, the computer can't block cranking, but trying to figure out how to check. I do know that if the sidestand is down and the bike is in gear, the starter button behaves as she describes: fuel pump and check-engine light, no cranking.

It may be that the diode box for the starter interlock is bad, it may be that the sidestand switch is bad.

 

[Geezer]

I just wrote a long response to this thread & poof, it's gone. I do want to thank everyone. I really do not have the time to respond presently. Ya'll be good & safe. Again, thank you.

So, does that mean that you are good to go?

 

[Mihalis fjr]

I had the same problem once and was the side stand switch.Very easy to check it with a multimeter at closed and at open position.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Am I the only one that never uses the kill switch?

Maybe I do but don't even realize it. This getting old stuff sucks.

Dave

 

[Geezer]

Am I the only one that never uses the kill switch?

Maybe I do but don't even realize it. This getting old stuff sucks.
Dave

I never use the kill switch..... never intentionally that is, but that's another story.

 

[Uncle Hud]

08FJR4ME posted: Am I the only one that never uses the kill switch?

Maybe I do but don't even realize it. This getting old stuff sucks.
Dave

Nope. You're not the only one who never uses the kill switch.

Geezer posted: I never use the kill switch..... never intentionally that is, but that's another story. rolleyes.gif

Heh, heh, heh. Once upon a time, I was convinced my FJR had died and gone to heaven. Wouldn't start. No clicks, buzzes, whirs, nothing. Does your story sound like mine?

 

[Geezer]

08FJR4ME posted: Am I the only one that never uses the kill switch?

Maybe I do but don't even realize it. This getting old stuff sucks.
Dave

Nope. You're not the only one who never uses the kill switch.

Geezer posted: I never use the kill switch..... never intentionally that is, but that's another story. rolleyes.gif

Heh, heh, heh. Once upon a time, I was convinced my FJR had died and gone to heaven. Wouldn't start. No clicks, buzzes, whirs, nothing. Does your story sound like mine?

Yes, except I was 1500 miles from home about a mile up an ATV trail with a full load of camping gear on the seat and tank bag. I decided to turn around when something on the tank bag pushed the switch off. I didn't know what happened but was able to coast back down to the gravel road before trying to figure it out.

 

[Bounce]

Using the kills switch was drilled into my core being from all the ERC and other courses I've taken.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Any updates on your ignition issue?

 

[Intech]

I picked the bike up Sunday and brought it to my garage. Preliminary finding is the ignition switch. I have to go a little deeper, but I am pretty sure that switch is the culprit.

 

[luvtoride]

I just heard from Bob. Looks like it is likely the switch. He's going to bypass it @ sometime today. to be 100% sure. I'll let him expound on this.

 

[Intech]

It has really been a tech weekend for me. I spent all day working on Heidi's bike. I got under the tank today to the ignition plug. While I could get decent continuity, it was not good with just a little jiggle of the key to the point of opening up sometimes. I did find the main fuse blown too. I jumped around the ignition switch and got it to turn over, but not with very much power. It would turn over once and act like the power had been switched off causing the gauges to sweep like the power was just turned on. I pulled the starter and opened it up. Nothing obvious. This was a starter that Ray took apart and thoroughly cleaned. Brushes look OK and it is still clean. I believe the combination of the two problems, ignition and starter, are what is causing her batteries to fail. Anyone have a starter?

 

[Intech]

Not that I really need it, but why don't I have a DC amp clamp??? How could I have gone so long without one? Don't really need one to determine the starter is drawing high current. I was trying to start it with my truck battery.

 

[FJRay]

It has really been a tech weekend for me. I spent all day working on Heidi's bike. I got under the tank today to the ignition plug. While I could get decent continuity, it was not good with just a little jiggle of the key to the point of opening up sometimes. I did find the main fuse blown too. I jumped around the ignition switch and got it to turn over, but not with very much power. It would turn over once and act like the power had been switched off causing the gauges to sweep like the power was just turned on. I pulled the starter and opened it up. Nothing obvious. This was a starter that Ray took apart and thoroughly cleaned. Brushes look OK and it is still clean. I believe the combination of the two problems, ignition and starter, are what is causing her batteries to fail. Anyone have a starter?

Is it possible that there is something binding and not allowing the starter to spin the engine. Usually a starter has a gradual decline in performance. I'll look and see if I have a good one ready. If you can, bench test it and see how much juice it draws. Should be around 20 amps +/-. Make sure the witness marks line up when you assemble it and you can fine tune the draw by moving the body a little either way if that makes any sense.

 

[Intech]

It has really been a tech weekend for me. I spent all day working on Heidi's bike. I got under the tank today to the ignition plug. While I could get decent continuity, it was not good with just a little jiggle of the key to the point of opening up sometimes. I did find the main fuse blown too. I jumped around the ignition switch and got it to turn over, but not with very much power. It would turn over once and act like the power had been switched off causing the gauges to sweep like the power was just turned on. I pulled the starter and opened it up. Nothing obvious. This was a starter that Ray took apart and thoroughly cleaned. Brushes look OK and it is still clean. I believe the combination of the two problems, ignition and starter, are what is causing her batteries to fail. Anyone have a starter?

Is it possible that there is something binding and not allowing the starter to spin the engine. Usually a starter has a gradual decline in performance. I'll look and see if I have a good one ready. If you can, bench test it and see how much juice it draws. Should be around 20 amps +/-. Make sure the witness marks line up when you assemble it and you can fine tune the draw by moving the body a little either way if that makes any sense.

Got it Ray. I need to get a DC amp clamp.

 

[dcarver]

1. I got under the tank today to the ignition plug. While I could get decent continuity, it was not good with just a little jiggle of the key to the point of opening up sometimes.I saw your FB post video of key switch operation. Ouch. Looking at pics of her bike, lots of corrosion.
   
2. I did find the main fuse blown too.Serious clue. I've not heard of any main fuse blowing, and I've actually accidentally done welding and blown the main fuse.
   
3. I jumped around the ignition switch and got it to turn over, but not with very much power.Hmmm. I ASSume you used 'good jumpers' and not just some dinky 18 gauge wire alligator clips on each end... This one burned me once.. My so-called test rig was promoting the problem that was elsewhere...
   
4. It would turn over once and act like the power had been switched off causing the gauges to sweep like the power was just turned on.I think you mentioned using a truck battery, no the bike battery? How solid are the connections from truck battery to bike wiring? Did you bolt the connection point from battery cable to bike harness or use battery jump cable clamps?
   
5. I pulled the starter and opened it up. Nothing obvious. This was a starter that Ray took apart and thoroughly cleaned. Brushes look OK and it is still clean. I believe the combination of the two problems, ignition and starter, are what is causing her batteries to fail. Anyone have a starter?​That's a lot of work to pull the starter. I'm doing the same thing now, along with a raft of other work on my 2006.
   

I'm leaning toward the starter relay.

My 240k mile 2006 and ridden almost daily with lots of start cycles has consumed 2 relays. I'm on the 3rd one now. Took one apart, the power contacts are burned and pitted. I'll try to find pix. If you haven't replaced the relay yet, start there. Then be sure all bike and temporary connections are clean and tight. Then try a re-start.

Be sure to check that ground at engine RHS front under cylinder #4 header pipe.

Bikes with lots of corrosion can exhibit all sorts of interesting troubleshooting scenarios..

 

[dcarver]

Burnt starter relay contractor..

Ground point..