Proper shifting RPM?

[Schwach]

Hello,

i realize that on my 2005 FJR1300AC shifting is not the same on different RPM. For example from 1st to 2nd there is like butter on 2-3K RPM and from 3rd to 4th is great on ~5K... On other RPM it's some... not clunky, but there is need to a little bit of power to switch and some sound "click" while on this rpm there is totally no sound and resistance.

So, what is the proper RPM to switch?

Thank you!

 

[Ignacio]

So, what is the proper RPM to switch?

Anywhere between 2K and 9K.....depending on your mood.

 

[Schwach]

But is there something bad in switching resistance or if there is now gear grinding there is no reason to be nervous?

 

[Ignacio]

But is there something bad in switching resistance or if there is now gear grinding there is no reason to be nervous?

Grinding gears? You didn't say that in your first post. If you have significant metal to metal noises when shifting (other than a clunk shiting from neutral to 1st) then there may be an issue with the motorcycle.

 

[Schwach]

But is there something bad in switching resistance or if there is now gear grinding there is no reason to be nervous?

Grinding gears? You didn't say that in your first post. If you have significant metal to metal noises when shifting (other than a clunk shiting from neutral to 1st) then there may be an issue with the motorcycle.

O, i wrote it with is mistake, it's must be "if there is NO gear grinding there is no reason to be nervous?"

There is absolutely no resistance on certain RPM (for example 5K from 2nd to 3rd gear). So, question is - is this normal, or in all RPM range must not be any clicks, clunks and resistance when shifting?

 

[Ignacio]

As I said, other than neutral to 1st there shouldn't be any issues shifting at any RPM. Ride more, stress less.

 

[Geezer]

As Iggy said, shift RPM depends on how you feel at the time. I generally shift at about 5k RPM when just cruising and much higher when in the twisties.

Many of us, myself included, have swapped out the shift link for a shorter one that is sold for one of the R1 model years. The effect is a change in leverage and your toe does not have to move as far when shifting. If you search the forum you'll find the discussions and part number.

One other thing that may help is to clean and lubricate the shift linkage pivots.

 

[ionbeam]

...not clunky, but there is need to a little bit of power to switch and some sound "click" while on this rpm there is totally no sound and resistance.

...One other thing that may help is to clean and lubricate the shift linkage pivots.

I think that I'm reading that the shift lever is not completely returning to the center position so the shift drum does not center and it won't shift to the next gear. If this is true, try to push down slightly on the shift lever then try to shift again.

As Geezer notes, this is caused by the shift lever sticking. To fix the problem the whole foot peg bracket needs to be removed, the bolt removed from the shift pivot, then cleaned and greased. When reassembling, the pivot bolt takes almost no torque and should not flatten the bevel washer.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Is the AC the AE? Do you have the electronic clutch?

To be clear, you have grinding when you shift, or you do NOT have grinding when you shift? The answer makes a difference.

 

[Schwach]

Is the AC the AE? Do you have the electronic clutch?
To be clear, you have grinding when you shift, or you do NOT have grinding when you shift? The answer makes a difference.

I have AC with simple hydraulic clutch. I dont have grinding, it's only interesting, why for example it switches from 2nd to 3rd with "clunk" on 3K RPM and with silent "snick" on 5K

 

[Road_Runner]

You transmission will shift better when the engine RPMs closely match the rotational speed of the transmission output, You can find out what this RPM is by attempting to shift without the clutch (if you dare). Just Google "shifting without clutch" for mire info. You already have a good idea what RPM this is though... the transmission shifts much more smoothly around this RPM (lik around 4K I think).

 

[Spud]

Apologies for going off-topic, but if you can please post a pic of your FJR in Moscow... I'd like to see that! From you tube it appears to be an insane place to ride a motorcycle...

 

[HotRodZilla]

So Road_Runner made a good point. When the ratios are close, the bike shifts easier. Usually with proper use of the clutch, the ratios are not an issue, BUT, if your clutch isn't operating correctly, that could lead to felt harder shifts when the ratios are farther apart.

When's the last time the clutch fluid was changed? I'd look there and at lubing the shifter pivot and the lever. If that failed, I'd go with a clutch soak and see what happens. All these things are cheap and easy to do, so not much to lose.

Good luck!