2wheeldrift
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08 REAR SUSPENSION & SHOCK SHIELD
SOME TIME AGO I READ ABOUT THE COLLAPSE OF THE REAR SUSPENSION ON AN FJR. IT WAS PROBABLY DUE TO A COMBINATION OF POOR MAINTENANCE AND ROAD CRUD, CAUSING THE BEARINGS IN THE RELAY ARM TO SEIZE. AT THE SAME TIME & BEING ANAL, I WAS PISSED OFF WITH ALL THE ROAD DEBRI/WATER SLAMMING INTO THE REAR SUSPENSION PARTS. I DECIDED TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. I’M NOT ONE FOR DRAWINGS ETC; I JUST MAKE THINGS AS I SEE THE FINISHED PRODUCT IN MY HEAD. SOME 20K KLMS OF TESTING LATER, IT WORKS EXTREMELY WELL KEEPING 98% OF JUNK OFF THE SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY AND WEIGHTING/COSTING BUGGER ALL.
I HAVE PURPOSELY MADE IT, SO ALMOST ANYONE WITH BASIC TOOLS & SKILLS CAN EASILY MAKE THE SHIELD AND TO STOP ENTREPRENEURS FROM COPYING THE SHIELD AND SELLING IT FOR PROFIT. I COULD HAVE GONE DOWN THAT ROAD MYSELF, HOWEVER I WANTED TO GIVE SOMETHING BACK IN LIEU OF ALL THE INFO/LAUGHTS/TOURING PICTURES AND CHARACTERS ETC., I HAVE WITNESSED THROUGH THIS FORUM.
SOME OF THE PICS MAY MAKE THE SHIELD LOOK BULKY. IT FITS LIKE A GLOVE AND FROM CERTAIN ANGLES BASICALLY CANNOT BE SEEN, THE LOWEST POINT BEING ONLY 10-11MM BELOW THE RELAY ARM. ENOUGH OF THE WAFFLING ON, I’M A DOER SO LET’S GET DOWN TO BUSINESS.
MATERIALS REQUIRED
SORRY ALL THE MEASUREMENTS ARE IN MILLIMETERS.
TAKE CONVERSION TO THE NEAREST, 1/16”, 1/8”,. E.G. 40MM = 1 &9/16”
1. 1 PIECE OF 40MM X 25MM X 1.5MM ALUMINIUM ANGLE 275MM LONG
2. 1 PIECE OF 225MM X 135MM X 1.5MM ALUMINIUM PLATE
3. 1 PIECE OF 120MM X 80MM X 1.5MM ALUMINIUM PLATE
4. 5 OFF 5MM X 10MM LONG S/STEEL METAL THREAD SCREWS ANY CHOICE OF HEAD DESIGN BUT NOT COUNTERSUNK
5. 5 S/STEEL WASHERS TO SUIT ABOVE SCREWS
6. 5 S/STEEL LOCKNUTS TO SUIT ABOVE SCREWS
(NOT MUCH IS IT AND NO BANK LOAN TO BUY MATERIALS)
MANUFACTURE
1. FIRST WE NEED TO MAKE A BRACKET WITH MOUNTING TABS.
2. CUT ALUM. ANGLE 275MM LONG. SEE PIC 8
3. NOW WE NEED TO MAKE THE MOUNTING TABS. SEE PIC 9 FOR SET OUT
4. ARMED WITH A HACKSAW, SLOT “STRAIGHTDOWN” (NO WANDERING) 43MM OF BOTH ENDS, CUT ON THE 40MM SIDE OF THE ANGLE WHERE THE 40MM X 25MM FLATS JOIN TO MAKE 90DEG. THIS WAY WE END UP WITH A FULL 25MM WIDE TAB. SEE PICS 10,11,12
5. WE WILL BEND THOSE 25MM X 43MM TABS 90DEG. AND IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO THE 40MM SIDE OF ANGLE. YOU NEED TO BE FAIRLY ACCURATE WHEN BENDING. THE INSIDE TO INSIDE MEASUREMENT, SHOULD BE +/- 1MM…189MM. BEND 90DEG. ONLY ONCE FOR OBVIOUS CONSEQUENCES.
6. CUT OFF BOTH 43MM ENDS (CUT STRAIGHT)!! SEE PICS 16 & 17
7. MEASURE DOWN 12MM & CENTRE OF BOTH TABS & DRILL AN 8MM CLEARANCE HOLE. SEE PICS 18 & 19
8. NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO CHECK FOR MOUNTING. REMOVE L.&R. EXHAUST SECURING BOLTS FROM THE MAIN STAND BRACKET JUST REARWARD OF THE CAT. CONVERTERS. THE TABS SHOULD FACE TOWARDS FRONT OF BIKE SEE PICS 3 & 4 AND SHOULD FIT SNUGLY FROM WHERE THE BOLTS WERE REMOVED. ie: OUTSIDE TO OUTSIDE MAIN STAND BRACKETS SEE PICS 3 & 4. BEND TABS SLIGHTLY TO FIT, INSERT BOLTS AND LIGHTLY TIGHTEN, JUST ENOUGH TO BEND TABS TO THEIR FINAL FIT. REMOVE BRACKET FROM BIKE. MY BIKE IS A 08 MODEL, AT THE BOTTOM OF THE L.H.S. MAIN STAND BRACKET, YOU’LL SEE AN APPROX 3MM DIAMETER ROUND SECTION STEEL WELDED TO IT AND THEN LOOPED 90DEG. FROM BRACKET. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT PURPOSE IT SERVES ONLY MAYBES. I BENT MINE SO AS NOT TO INTERFERE WITH THE BRACKET AND IT BROKE OFF WITH ONLY A SLIGHT BEND. SO BE IT. IT CERTAINLY MAKES IT A LOT EASIER TO FIT THIS SHIELD. IT’S UP TO YOU TO DO WHATEVER IT TAKES TO FINISH THIS SHIELD. BRACKET FITS OKAY DOESN’T IT? IS THAT A YES? WELL PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK. DON’T GET ON THE TURPS JUST YET AS WE HAVE SOME DISTANCE TO GO. IF THAT’S A NO, START AGAIN FROM SCRATCH WHEN YOU’RE SOBER.
9. TIME TO CUT OUT CLEARANCES FOR THE MAIN STAND SPRING AND LEGS. CUT ACCURATELY . SEE PICS 20 & 21
10. FIT BRACKET TO BIKE WITH THE EXHAUST SECURING BOLTS LIGHTLY TIGHTENED AND SWIVEL BRACKET TOWARDS REAR OF BIKE, UNTIL THE EDGE OF THE 40MM PART OF THE ANGLE CONTACTS THE RELAY ARM. THIS MEANS THE MAIN STAND IS FREE TO MOVE WITHOUT INTERFERING WITH THE BRACKET. WHILE YOU’VE GOT YOUR HEAD UNDER THE BIKE, LINE UP THE L&R SIDES OF THE RELAY ARM, ADD 5MM L&R OF THE ARM SIDES AND MARK BRACKET. SEE PIC 22
11. SCALLOP OUT BETWEEN MARKS ABOUT 8MM DEEP AT CENTRE OF SCALLOP. THIS ALLOWS THE ARM TO MOVE FORWARD WITHOUT CONTACTING BRACKET SEE PICS 23 & 24
12. WE NEED TO STRENGTHEN THE 90DEG. BENDS. FOR THOSE WITHOUT A TIG WELDER, LIGHTLY SAND SURFACES AT THE BEND AND ABOUT 10-12MM EACH WAY OF THE BEND. THIS WILL AID BETTER ADHESION OF THE EPOXY GLUE. SEE PICS 25 & 26
13. TAPE BOTH SIDES OF BENDS. SEE PICS 27 & 28
14. MIX EPOXY GLUE (I USED A 5 MINUTE SETTING GLUE) AND HOLDING BRACKET ON AN ANGLE SEE PIC 29 POUR A LITTLE INTO THE CORNER TO FORM A TRIANGLE 8MM X 8MM X 8MM. OBVIOUSLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. THE GLUE I USED WAS ALMOST TRANSPARENT SO I “BLACK PENNED” THE CURED GLUE TO MAKE IT VISABLE. SEE PICS 30 & 31
15. WITH GLUE CURED, TIME TO ROUND OFF THE SHARP CORNERS ON THE TABS. SEE PICS 32 & 33
16. CUT PLATE TO MEASURE 225MM X 135MM AND MARK ONE END FRONT/TOP AND OTHER END REAR. AT FRONT LHS CORNER MEASURE 15MM DOWN & 15MM ACROSS & DIAGONALLY JOIN. CUT THIS SECTION OFF. NOW MEASURE DOWN 85MM & MARK ACROSS PLATE. SEE PICS 34 & 35
17. MEASURE DOWN ANOTHER 40MM & MARK ACROSS PLATE. SEE PIC 36
18. NOW TRIM OFF 10MM WIDE RHS FROM FRONT OF PLATE DOWN TO THE 85MM LINE. SEE PIC 37
19. 10MM WIDE STRIP……..GONE SEE PIC 38
20. RHS TOP CUT 15MM X 15MM DIAGONALLY. SEE PIC 39 & 40
21. SIT MOUNTING BRACKET ON THE PLATE BETWEEN THE 2 LINES & OVERHANG THE LHS BY 30MM & RHS BY 35MM. MAKE SURE BRACKET IS SQUARE TO PLATE. SEE PIC 41
22. HOLD BRACKET DOWN FIRMLY & SQUARE TO PLATE, SCRIBE/ MARK THE CUTOUT OF THE BRACKET ON TO THE PLATE. CONTINUE LINE ALL THE WAY TO THE REAR OF PLATE. THIS SECTION TO BE CUT OUT IS APPROX. 124MM LONG X 18-20MM WIDE. SEE PICS 42 & 43
23. THE ABOVE PIECE……..GONE SEE PIC 44
24. WE NEED TO DRILL SOME HOLES SO THIS BRACKET WILL BOLT TO PLATE.
MEASURE FROM LHS 25MM/58MM/90MM
DISTANCE IN FROM EDGE AT 25MM MARK IS 15MM
DISTANCE IN FROM EDGE AT 58MM MARK IS 25MM
DISTANCE IN FROM EDGE AT 90MM MARK IS 15MM SEE PIC 45
25. DRILL 3 X 5MM CLEARANCE HOLES. SEE PIC 46
26. PLACE BRACKET ON PLATE (MAKE SURE IT’S SQUARE TO PLATE” WITH CORRECT OVERHANG ON EACH SIDE. (SEE STEP 22) HOLD BRACKET DOWN FIRMLY ON PLATE AND MARK THROUGH BRACKET HOLES ON TO PLATE. SEE PIC 47 DRILL HOLES THROUGH PLATE.
27. BOLT BRACKET TO PLATE. SEE PIC 48
28. EVERYTHING LINES UP, SQUARE AND OVERHANG MEASUREMENTS ARE TO SPEC.…… GOOD. REMOVE BRACKET FROM PLATE. NOW TO BEND THE PLATE. CLAMP PLATE IN VICE OR IMPROVISE. MAKE SURE THE BOTTOM LINE IS JUST ABOVE THE CLAMP. HOLD BOTH SIDES OF PLATE & EASE THE PLATE TOWARDS ONESELF ABOUT 60DEG. A LITTLE MORE OR LESS MAY BE NECESSARY. WHEN FITTED. SEE PICS 49 & 50
29. BOLT BRACKET TO PLATE. SEE PIC 51
30. NOW FIT SHIELD TO BIKE. LIGHTLY TIGHTEN SECURING BOLTS & ADJUST SHIELD TO ACHIEVE A 10MM GAP BETWEEN RELAY ARM & SHIELD. BOTH SHOULD BE PARALLEL TO ONE ANOTHER. IF NOT RE BEND PLATE TO SUIT. WITH BIKE NOW ON SIDE STAND, MOVE MAIN STAND UP AND DOWN. STAND SHOULD BE FREE, IF IT DOES CONTACT, IT MAY BE THE MAIN STAND SPRING RUBBING ON THE SHIELD PLATE. IF SO, TRIM A LITTLE OFF THE SIDE OF THE SHIELD PLATE.
SEE PIC 43 & 44.
IF SATISFIED WITH FIT, CONGRATULATE YOURSELF AND OPEN A COLD ONE. NO DOUBT SOME OF YOU HAVE ALREADY SUNK A FEW.
SHOCK SHIELD (OPTIONAL)
1. CUT PLATE TO SIZE 120MM X 80MM X 1.5MM
2. MARK (TOP) AND MEASURE DOWN 85MM. MARK SQUARELY ACROSS PLATE. SEE PIC 52
3. FOLLOW MEASUREMENTS AND DRILL 5MM CLEARANCE HOLES. SEE PICS 53 & 54
4. NOW TO BEND. CLAMP IN VICE (OR IMPROVISE) WITH THE LINE 85MM FROM TOP OF PLATE JUST ABOVE THE VICE (SAY 2MM).
5. BEND BRACKET TOWARDS ONESELF ABOUT 70-75DEG. SEE PICS 56 & 576. SET OUT MEASUREMENTS ON SHIELD PLATE AND DRILL 5MM CLEARANCE HOLES. SEE PIC 58 BOLT SHOCK SHIELD TO PLATE. SEE PIC 59. ROUND OFF ALL SHARP CORNERS THAT ARE VISABLE. MOUNT SHIELD TO BIKE AND CHECK THERE IS CLEARANCE BETWEEN EITHER SIDE OF THE SHOCK SHIELD AND DOGBONES.
ALL GOOD? WELL NOW YOU’RE DONE. I KNOW IT’S BEEN LONG WINDED, BUT HEY IT’S WORTH IT, EACH TIME YOU LOOK AT THAT SHIELD, JUST THINK ……..”GEEZ, I MADE THAT”.
How to do images
SOME TIME AGO I READ ABOUT THE COLLAPSE OF THE REAR SUSPENSION ON AN FJR. IT WAS PROBABLY DUE TO A COMBINATION OF POOR MAINTENANCE AND ROAD CRUD, CAUSING THE BEARINGS IN THE RELAY ARM TO SEIZE. AT THE SAME TIME & BEING ANAL, I WAS PISSED OFF WITH ALL THE ROAD DEBRI/WATER SLAMMING INTO THE REAR SUSPENSION PARTS. I DECIDED TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. I’M NOT ONE FOR DRAWINGS ETC; I JUST MAKE THINGS AS I SEE THE FINISHED PRODUCT IN MY HEAD. SOME 20K KLMS OF TESTING LATER, IT WORKS EXTREMELY WELL KEEPING 98% OF JUNK OFF THE SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY AND WEIGHTING/COSTING BUGGER ALL.
I HAVE PURPOSELY MADE IT, SO ALMOST ANYONE WITH BASIC TOOLS & SKILLS CAN EASILY MAKE THE SHIELD AND TO STOP ENTREPRENEURS FROM COPYING THE SHIELD AND SELLING IT FOR PROFIT. I COULD HAVE GONE DOWN THAT ROAD MYSELF, HOWEVER I WANTED TO GIVE SOMETHING BACK IN LIEU OF ALL THE INFO/LAUGHTS/TOURING PICTURES AND CHARACTERS ETC., I HAVE WITNESSED THROUGH THIS FORUM.
SOME OF THE PICS MAY MAKE THE SHIELD LOOK BULKY. IT FITS LIKE A GLOVE AND FROM CERTAIN ANGLES BASICALLY CANNOT BE SEEN, THE LOWEST POINT BEING ONLY 10-11MM BELOW THE RELAY ARM. ENOUGH OF THE WAFFLING ON, I’M A DOER SO LET’S GET DOWN TO BUSINESS.
MATERIALS REQUIRED
SORRY ALL THE MEASUREMENTS ARE IN MILLIMETERS.
TAKE CONVERSION TO THE NEAREST, 1/16”, 1/8”,. E.G. 40MM = 1 &9/16”
1. 1 PIECE OF 40MM X 25MM X 1.5MM ALUMINIUM ANGLE 275MM LONG
2. 1 PIECE OF 225MM X 135MM X 1.5MM ALUMINIUM PLATE
3. 1 PIECE OF 120MM X 80MM X 1.5MM ALUMINIUM PLATE
4. 5 OFF 5MM X 10MM LONG S/STEEL METAL THREAD SCREWS ANY CHOICE OF HEAD DESIGN BUT NOT COUNTERSUNK
5. 5 S/STEEL WASHERS TO SUIT ABOVE SCREWS
6. 5 S/STEEL LOCKNUTS TO SUIT ABOVE SCREWS
(NOT MUCH IS IT AND NO BANK LOAN TO BUY MATERIALS)
MANUFACTURE
1. FIRST WE NEED TO MAKE A BRACKET WITH MOUNTING TABS.
2. CUT ALUM. ANGLE 275MM LONG. SEE PIC 8
3. NOW WE NEED TO MAKE THE MOUNTING TABS. SEE PIC 9 FOR SET OUT
4. ARMED WITH A HACKSAW, SLOT “STRAIGHTDOWN” (NO WANDERING) 43MM OF BOTH ENDS, CUT ON THE 40MM SIDE OF THE ANGLE WHERE THE 40MM X 25MM FLATS JOIN TO MAKE 90DEG. THIS WAY WE END UP WITH A FULL 25MM WIDE TAB. SEE PICS 10,11,12
5. WE WILL BEND THOSE 25MM X 43MM TABS 90DEG. AND IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO THE 40MM SIDE OF ANGLE. YOU NEED TO BE FAIRLY ACCURATE WHEN BENDING. THE INSIDE TO INSIDE MEASUREMENT, SHOULD BE +/- 1MM…189MM. BEND 90DEG. ONLY ONCE FOR OBVIOUS CONSEQUENCES.
6. CUT OFF BOTH 43MM ENDS (CUT STRAIGHT)!! SEE PICS 16 & 17
7. MEASURE DOWN 12MM & CENTRE OF BOTH TABS & DRILL AN 8MM CLEARANCE HOLE. SEE PICS 18 & 19
8. NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO CHECK FOR MOUNTING. REMOVE L.&R. EXHAUST SECURING BOLTS FROM THE MAIN STAND BRACKET JUST REARWARD OF THE CAT. CONVERTERS. THE TABS SHOULD FACE TOWARDS FRONT OF BIKE SEE PICS 3 & 4 AND SHOULD FIT SNUGLY FROM WHERE THE BOLTS WERE REMOVED. ie: OUTSIDE TO OUTSIDE MAIN STAND BRACKETS SEE PICS 3 & 4. BEND TABS SLIGHTLY TO FIT, INSERT BOLTS AND LIGHTLY TIGHTEN, JUST ENOUGH TO BEND TABS TO THEIR FINAL FIT. REMOVE BRACKET FROM BIKE. MY BIKE IS A 08 MODEL, AT THE BOTTOM OF THE L.H.S. MAIN STAND BRACKET, YOU’LL SEE AN APPROX 3MM DIAMETER ROUND SECTION STEEL WELDED TO IT AND THEN LOOPED 90DEG. FROM BRACKET. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT PURPOSE IT SERVES ONLY MAYBES. I BENT MINE SO AS NOT TO INTERFERE WITH THE BRACKET AND IT BROKE OFF WITH ONLY A SLIGHT BEND. SO BE IT. IT CERTAINLY MAKES IT A LOT EASIER TO FIT THIS SHIELD. IT’S UP TO YOU TO DO WHATEVER IT TAKES TO FINISH THIS SHIELD. BRACKET FITS OKAY DOESN’T IT? IS THAT A YES? WELL PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK. DON’T GET ON THE TURPS JUST YET AS WE HAVE SOME DISTANCE TO GO. IF THAT’S A NO, START AGAIN FROM SCRATCH WHEN YOU’RE SOBER.
9. TIME TO CUT OUT CLEARANCES FOR THE MAIN STAND SPRING AND LEGS. CUT ACCURATELY . SEE PICS 20 & 21
10. FIT BRACKET TO BIKE WITH THE EXHAUST SECURING BOLTS LIGHTLY TIGHTENED AND SWIVEL BRACKET TOWARDS REAR OF BIKE, UNTIL THE EDGE OF THE 40MM PART OF THE ANGLE CONTACTS THE RELAY ARM. THIS MEANS THE MAIN STAND IS FREE TO MOVE WITHOUT INTERFERING WITH THE BRACKET. WHILE YOU’VE GOT YOUR HEAD UNDER THE BIKE, LINE UP THE L&R SIDES OF THE RELAY ARM, ADD 5MM L&R OF THE ARM SIDES AND MARK BRACKET. SEE PIC 22
11. SCALLOP OUT BETWEEN MARKS ABOUT 8MM DEEP AT CENTRE OF SCALLOP. THIS ALLOWS THE ARM TO MOVE FORWARD WITHOUT CONTACTING BRACKET SEE PICS 23 & 24
12. WE NEED TO STRENGTHEN THE 90DEG. BENDS. FOR THOSE WITHOUT A TIG WELDER, LIGHTLY SAND SURFACES AT THE BEND AND ABOUT 10-12MM EACH WAY OF THE BEND. THIS WILL AID BETTER ADHESION OF THE EPOXY GLUE. SEE PICS 25 & 26
13. TAPE BOTH SIDES OF BENDS. SEE PICS 27 & 28
14. MIX EPOXY GLUE (I USED A 5 MINUTE SETTING GLUE) AND HOLDING BRACKET ON AN ANGLE SEE PIC 29 POUR A LITTLE INTO THE CORNER TO FORM A TRIANGLE 8MM X 8MM X 8MM. OBVIOUSLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. THE GLUE I USED WAS ALMOST TRANSPARENT SO I “BLACK PENNED” THE CURED GLUE TO MAKE IT VISABLE. SEE PICS 30 & 31
15. WITH GLUE CURED, TIME TO ROUND OFF THE SHARP CORNERS ON THE TABS. SEE PICS 32 & 33
16. CUT PLATE TO MEASURE 225MM X 135MM AND MARK ONE END FRONT/TOP AND OTHER END REAR. AT FRONT LHS CORNER MEASURE 15MM DOWN & 15MM ACROSS & DIAGONALLY JOIN. CUT THIS SECTION OFF. NOW MEASURE DOWN 85MM & MARK ACROSS PLATE. SEE PICS 34 & 35
17. MEASURE DOWN ANOTHER 40MM & MARK ACROSS PLATE. SEE PIC 36
18. NOW TRIM OFF 10MM WIDE RHS FROM FRONT OF PLATE DOWN TO THE 85MM LINE. SEE PIC 37
19. 10MM WIDE STRIP……..GONE SEE PIC 38
20. RHS TOP CUT 15MM X 15MM DIAGONALLY. SEE PIC 39 & 40
21. SIT MOUNTING BRACKET ON THE PLATE BETWEEN THE 2 LINES & OVERHANG THE LHS BY 30MM & RHS BY 35MM. MAKE SURE BRACKET IS SQUARE TO PLATE. SEE PIC 41
22. HOLD BRACKET DOWN FIRMLY & SQUARE TO PLATE, SCRIBE/ MARK THE CUTOUT OF THE BRACKET ON TO THE PLATE. CONTINUE LINE ALL THE WAY TO THE REAR OF PLATE. THIS SECTION TO BE CUT OUT IS APPROX. 124MM LONG X 18-20MM WIDE. SEE PICS 42 & 43
23. THE ABOVE PIECE……..GONE SEE PIC 44
24. WE NEED TO DRILL SOME HOLES SO THIS BRACKET WILL BOLT TO PLATE.
MEASURE FROM LHS 25MM/58MM/90MM
DISTANCE IN FROM EDGE AT 25MM MARK IS 15MM
DISTANCE IN FROM EDGE AT 58MM MARK IS 25MM
DISTANCE IN FROM EDGE AT 90MM MARK IS 15MM SEE PIC 45
25. DRILL 3 X 5MM CLEARANCE HOLES. SEE PIC 46
26. PLACE BRACKET ON PLATE (MAKE SURE IT’S SQUARE TO PLATE” WITH CORRECT OVERHANG ON EACH SIDE. (SEE STEP 22) HOLD BRACKET DOWN FIRMLY ON PLATE AND MARK THROUGH BRACKET HOLES ON TO PLATE. SEE PIC 47 DRILL HOLES THROUGH PLATE.
27. BOLT BRACKET TO PLATE. SEE PIC 48
28. EVERYTHING LINES UP, SQUARE AND OVERHANG MEASUREMENTS ARE TO SPEC.…… GOOD. REMOVE BRACKET FROM PLATE. NOW TO BEND THE PLATE. CLAMP PLATE IN VICE OR IMPROVISE. MAKE SURE THE BOTTOM LINE IS JUST ABOVE THE CLAMP. HOLD BOTH SIDES OF PLATE & EASE THE PLATE TOWARDS ONESELF ABOUT 60DEG. A LITTLE MORE OR LESS MAY BE NECESSARY. WHEN FITTED. SEE PICS 49 & 50
29. BOLT BRACKET TO PLATE. SEE PIC 51
30. NOW FIT SHIELD TO BIKE. LIGHTLY TIGHTEN SECURING BOLTS & ADJUST SHIELD TO ACHIEVE A 10MM GAP BETWEEN RELAY ARM & SHIELD. BOTH SHOULD BE PARALLEL TO ONE ANOTHER. IF NOT RE BEND PLATE TO SUIT. WITH BIKE NOW ON SIDE STAND, MOVE MAIN STAND UP AND DOWN. STAND SHOULD BE FREE, IF IT DOES CONTACT, IT MAY BE THE MAIN STAND SPRING RUBBING ON THE SHIELD PLATE. IF SO, TRIM A LITTLE OFF THE SIDE OF THE SHIELD PLATE.
SEE PIC 43 & 44.
IF SATISFIED WITH FIT, CONGRATULATE YOURSELF AND OPEN A COLD ONE. NO DOUBT SOME OF YOU HAVE ALREADY SUNK A FEW.
SHOCK SHIELD (OPTIONAL)
1. CUT PLATE TO SIZE 120MM X 80MM X 1.5MM
2. MARK (TOP) AND MEASURE DOWN 85MM. MARK SQUARELY ACROSS PLATE. SEE PIC 52
3. FOLLOW MEASUREMENTS AND DRILL 5MM CLEARANCE HOLES. SEE PICS 53 & 54
4. NOW TO BEND. CLAMP IN VICE (OR IMPROVISE) WITH THE LINE 85MM FROM TOP OF PLATE JUST ABOVE THE VICE (SAY 2MM).
5. BEND BRACKET TOWARDS ONESELF ABOUT 70-75DEG. SEE PICS 56 & 576. SET OUT MEASUREMENTS ON SHIELD PLATE AND DRILL 5MM CLEARANCE HOLES. SEE PIC 58 BOLT SHOCK SHIELD TO PLATE. SEE PIC 59. ROUND OFF ALL SHARP CORNERS THAT ARE VISABLE. MOUNT SHIELD TO BIKE AND CHECK THERE IS CLEARANCE BETWEEN EITHER SIDE OF THE SHOCK SHIELD AND DOGBONES.
ALL GOOD? WELL NOW YOU’RE DONE. I KNOW IT’S BEEN LONG WINDED, BUT HEY IT’S WORTH IT, EACH TIME YOU LOOK AT THAT SHIELD, JUST THINK ……..”GEEZ, I MADE THAT”.
How to do images
) since they should fit all model year FJRs.
