Recent rider's review on the FJR1300A

[Unleaded]

Thanks for doing that, Fred - hugely helpful. And thanks for your comments, Redfish Hunter. There are many here with far more experience aboard the FJR than I, so I wouldn't begin to think everyone would agree with all of my assessment. I think my ride was 50 miles, maybe? I have a specific list I try to go through to maximize my time on test rides, but it's still just a snapshot, colored by my preconceptions and biases, try as I might to avoid them.

Really appreciate the kind words.

 

[Unleaded]

How does it compare to the Tenere? I liked the V-Strom's engine, riding position, and sporty character but even with better suspension I don't think that would be enough to cancel out the Tenere's shaft drive, centerstand, and other features (and I haven't ridden one of the new Teneres).

Wow - great job explaining the subtle differences in the old vs the new V-Strom. Having never owned a previous Strom, I had only my years aboard a GSA and several rides on older Stroms with which to compare feel. I don't think my eye was as discerning as yours.

However, your summation is right on compared with how I saw it. Keep in mind, I never took my GSA on anything resembling true "off-road". Groomed dirt and gravel, sure, but I'd ride any bike I've owned on that stuff. I was looking at both bikes as comfortable do-all tourers.

The Tenere felt like a bike you could take on long tours, whereas the Strom felt much more like a big supermoto. Its a lighter bike, of course, but felt narrower due to the tank shape and wider tank trim on the Tenere. I like the windscreen much better on the Tenere. They were both similar in shape and size, and I had no buffeting on either bike, but the Strom screen was very loud. Both bikes make just over 90hp. In theory, that makes the Strom the clear winner in lbs per hp. In reality, they both felt very similar in that regard.

I was especially enamored with the gearbox on the SuperTen. I liked the ratio - first was very low, but the 2nd /3rd/ 4th run seemed to cover a broader range than the Strom. I haven't checked ratios, but that's the impression. And on a twin, with the easy low-end torque on tap, I much prefer a lazier gearing. The Strom felt quicker and more agile, but not substantially so. With the Suzuki's lighter weight, narrower feel and shorter (perceived, anyway) gearing, I can't say how much of that quicker feel was perception, and how much was real. There wasn't enough difference in my mind that I recorded anything in my notes about it. Mechanically, both bikes shifted superbly. The Strom sounded more agricultural on acceleration - more like a single - than the Ten with factory exhaust. Not substantially so, but enough that it was noticeable.

The instrumentation on the SuperTen was more legible, more intuitive, and just 'looked' higher-end. I really liked it. At parking lot speeds I'd rather be on the Strom. Wide-handled twins are all excellent compared with most other bikes in this regard, but back-to-back, the Strom, to me, made the Ten feel much more ponderous and less precise. But the feeling of weight disappears at anything over about 5mph, and actually adds to the perception of smoothness and stability.

I'm just picking through my notes to give you some impressions - I'll post the full reviews of both when things slow down a bit for me at work (I'm in the grain business, and harvest is upon us)....

 

[Fred W]

I really wish that we had taken the Vstrom discussion to a different thread.

My experience on my '04 Man-Strom is considerably different from MCRider's, even though we both have 2004 models. But I think I know why he feels that way because I felt similarly before I discovered (and corrected) the few several problems the earlier model was plagued by:

The clutch damper issue (clutch chudder) is what makes the engine shake like a bucket of bolts, and makes many feel like they cannot rev the engine. Fix was a new clutch basket but I have a custom "Sharealike" clutch basket all ready for the next time I need to replace it. Its a matter of when not if.

The drive-line vibration issue under heavy lower gear acceleration is remedied by the Sprocket Carrier Spacer Mod.

I agree with his assessment that the gearing is wrong from the factory. I dropped mine from the stock 17F 40R sprockets to a 16F 43R. This transformed the bike into one that can be used well offroad (even muddy 2 tracks) and upped the acceleration enough to make you want to use the upper rpms where that engine actually shines (after the first two mods).

I also fixed the fueling with a PC3, which eliminated some of the bucking at lower rpms.

Even with all the fixes and crap I've had to install on my '-4 Manstrom, I really do love it. To the point that I was considering forgoing life with an FJR. I was beginning to think that the ADV bike life was the life for me.

Arrrh!

Then I rode a 2014 FJR ES...

 

[MCRIDER007]

I really wish that we had taken the Vstrom discussion to a different thread.
My experience on my '04 Man-Strom is considerably different from MCRider's, even though we both have 2004 models. But I think I know why he feels that way because I felt similarly before I discovered (and corrected) the few several problems the earlier model was plagued by:

The clutch damper issue (clutch chudder) is what makes the engine shake like a bucket of bolts, and makes many feel like they cannot rev the engine. Fix was a new clutch basket but I have a custom "Sharealike" clutch basket all ready for the next time I need to replace it. Its a matter of when not if.

The drive-line vibration issue under heavy lower gear acceleration is remedied by the Sprocket Carrier Spacer Mod.

I also fixed the fueling with a PC3, which eliminated some of the bucking at lower rpms.

It sounds like our experiences with the 2004 DL1000 were different. I never had a clutch damper issue, vibration was minimal under acceleration, and it would easily rev to redline...which I did on a regular basis. I also did not have the drive-line vibration issue you describe. I had some annoying FI issues when riding through town at at 2800-3000 rpms which was completely cured by a reflashed ECU....which was a swap with one supplied by Suzuki and installed at no cost. Ride quality and road handling was pretty good after I installed a Wilbers shock and some heavier fork springs. The annoying vibration under a load at highway speeds in the higher gears is also present in the Tenere and seems to be a common twin trait.

My V-Strom was actually a pretty good street bike but the brakes were terrible, build quality wasn't anything to take pride in, it wasn't something that was made for riding off pavement and I pretty much lost interest in riding it. The Tenere offered shaft drive, great brakes, much higher build quality, ABS, traction control, and a few other bells and whistles so I decided to make the switch. I had both in my garage for a year and the guy who test rode and bought the V-Strom got a lot of bike for a relatively modest cost.

As it turned out, the Tenere also isn't being ridden very much so I probably should have just stuck with the V-Strom.

 

[Unleaded]

I was beginning to think that the ADV bike life was the life for me.

Arrrh!

Then I rode a 2014 FJR ES...

I know that feeling well. Had a '95 Triumph Tiger and a GS Adventure. Loved 'em. But then I owned a couple of fast and smooth bikes, and have just adjusted to the fact that those kind of bikes are just my thing. Miss the legroom on the ADV bikes, but I'm willing to sacrifice it for four things: the power, weather protection, power, and smooth power.

 

[DezzertRider]

I liked your write up on the VFR. When I first saw photos of it in cycle world, I thought the looks were really out there and it didn't appeal to me at all. Over time, the looks have grown on me quite a bit. If I could have more than one bike, the VFR might be that second or third bike. The new CB1100 would have to be considered as well. I think they did a great job of bringing the retro UJM back. A bonneville would be another must have if I could have three or four bikes.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Having just come from a BMW RT, I've been pleasantly surprised with the FJR. Power, sound, and engine overall feel are superb. Handling is simply not comparable with the RT- the RT was just better. Wind protection at the bike is great, and hand protection is better than I expected. The windshield is a joke. Not sure why they bothered. So a touring windshield should be in today or tomorrow fixing that issue. The controls are super busy, but amazingly well thought out, as are the menu's in the rider's display. Seat is very firm but comfortable, and long enough for the rider to move fore and aft a bit on a long ride. Passenger position is back far enough for both rider and passenger to be comfortable- which isn't always the case for full-growed adults. Paint is not as thick or durable as the BMW, but it looks nice. In reality, the forward lean to the bars is not a huge difference from the RT, but it feels like the world. Even using a proper riding posture, hands and wrist discomfort and numbness are part of the commute until I can decide on and install risers. Very pleased with the bike. As a high-mileage rider, even more pleased with a very long unlimited mileage warranty.

 

[Uncle Hud]

Semi-hijack ...

My first ride was only 85 miles Tuesday night, but I can list these impressions. Some of these are obvious, but still made me grin insanely since I came from a Harley-clone Vstar 950 tourer.

1. The engine sound is radically different. And it's really ... well, I like it a lot.

2. Red line must be a misprint on the tach. Reflexively, I was shifting at 4k to 4.5k RPM. After realizing the available RPM range, I focused on shifting at 6k RPM, but accelerated gently as the engine had ZERO MILES ON IT when I picked it up.

3. Shift lever needs adjusting (upwards) so my toe fits underneath without projecting too far below the peg. Need to scrape feelers before scraping my toe.

4. Jesus, this bike has throttle, torque, zip, and spirit in big, big, bucketloads.

5. The Master Yoda Riding Position is the only way to fit on the bike. A little practice before I decide if bar risers or a new seat will be necessary.

6. After fifteen minutes, I was no longer anxious about my ballerina impersonation at each stoplight. Flat-foots only occur with one foot down.

7. Those hard cases easily swallowed the overnight bag that carried my ATGATT, all the purchase paperwork, my briefcase, and five pounds of 11x17 engineering prints. Lots of room in there.

8. Must practice my low-speed maneuvers a lot -- she's a heavy bike -- so I can avoid embarrassment when I finally meet some of y'all.

Out of town on business until Friday, dammit. She'll get the wrong impression with 3 consecutive days off.

 

[Fred W]

2. Red line must be a misprint on the tach. Reflexively, I was shifting at 4k to 4.5k RPM. After realizing the available RPM range, I focused on shifting at 6k RPM, but accelerated gently as the engine had ZERO MILES ON IT when I picked it up.

FYI... The owner's manual (I know, who reads that?) calls for limiting rpm (not just hard acceleration) during the break-in miles

0-600 miles < 4500 rpm.

600-1000 miles < 5400 rpm.

Of course you can do what you want with your own bike, but I opted to follow the recommendations on mine.

3. Shift lever needs adjusting (upwards) so my toe fits underneath without projecting too far below the peg. Need to scrape feelers before scraping my toe.

Two things:

One, yeah I adjusted mine up also. Easy peasy, just loosen the lock nut on the turnbuckle that connects the shift lever with the shift arm above, and twist away. If you need more range move the shift arm one notch on the shaft splines.

Two, don't ride with your toe under the shifter and you'll never have to worry about dragging your toes. You also won't wear out your shift forks due to constant light pressure on the shift lever. Instead, learn to ride with the balls of your feet up on the foot pegs and only put your foot under the shifter when actively shifting, which shouldn't be at full lean anyways. That foot position also helps support more of your weight with your legs per the MYRP.

8. Must practice my low-speed maneuvers a lot -- she's a heavy bike -- so I can avoid embarrassment when I finally meet some of y'all.

One technique that is very helpful for making very low speed, tight turns on our fat feejers is to drag the rear brake while making the turn. Another is to use your dirt bike skills, opposite of normal cornering leaning, and intentionally push the bike down into the turn keeping your body and head vertical. Try those two tricks in your next parking lot practice session.

 

[Unleaded]

I liked your write up on the VFR. When I first saw photos of it in cycle world, I thought the looks were really out there and it didn't appeal to me at all. Over time, the looks have grown on me quite a bit. If I could have more than one bike, the VFR might be that second or third bike. The new CB1100 would have to be considered as well. I think they did a great job of bringing the retro UJM back. A bonneville would be another must have if I could have three or four bikes.

Thanks, and yeah - the VFR1200 is a fantastic motorcycle. If my riding didn't require big slab miles to get to good riding, I wouldn't have felt the need to trade for the FJR. The feejer is by far the better bike for loaded touring, and I wanted the additional weather protection. But with helibars and a peg-lowering kit on the VFR (and the short windshield), the riding position and roomy feel of the bike was excellent. I did two SS1000's on it - no complaints. It isn't a light motorcycle, but it is far narrower from the saddle than it looks. If I had the funds to have more than one bike right now, the VFR would have stayed.

 

[Uncle Hud]

FredW: Thanks!

1) Didn't have a chance to read the manual before first ride, but will absolutely follow break-in procedures. I'm an engineer.

2) Balls of feet on peg as per Yoda, but found the need to shift mid-arc on a few left handers and thought about the worst that could happen. I'm an engineer.

3) Yeah, a moto-cop gave me that tip in 1978 while miserably failing the Hawaii motorcycle driving test.

 

[wheatonFJR]

FredW: Thanks!
1) Didn't have a chance to read the manual before first ride, but will absolutely follow break-in procedures. I'm an engineer.

2) Balls of feet on peg as per Yoda, but found the need to shift mid-arc on a few left handers and thought about the worst that could happen. I'm an engineer.

3) Yeah, a moto-cop gave me that tip in 1978 while miserably failing the Hawaii motorcycle driving test.

You can change your profile now. Sounds like you own an FJR!

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I had serious concerns about handling at first. Then I got home and found out my lovely dealership had custom prepped my new ride with 20 lbs in the rear and 21 in the front. A wonder I didn't bend a wheel or smoke a tire. Rain this morning kept me from really testing the difference.

 

[wheatonFJR]

I had serious concerns about handling at first. Then I got home and found out my lovely dealership had custom prepped my new ride with 20 lbs in the rear and 21 in the front. A wonder I didn't bend a wheel or smoke a tire. Rain this morning kept me from really testing the difference.

What was the dealer's name and location that prepped you with 20 psi on your brand new bike?

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I cannot say in an open forum. I must say CYCLE that the experience, NATION other than my CANTONunwitting low pressure dance with death, was GEORGIA excellent. I guess I should look elsewhere for service.....

 

[CA G-Man]

I had serious concerns about handling at first. Then I got home and found out my lovely dealership had custom prepped my new ride with 20 lbs in the rear and 21 in the front. A wonder I didn't bend a wheel or smoke a tire. Rain this morning kept me from really testing the difference.

I had the same thing happen when I had Cycle Works in Red Deer, Alberta install my new tires this past summer. 21 and 22 PSI. Shocking. And they seemed to forget about my specific request for 90 degree valve stems. Oh, and they scratched my windshield too. The only Yammy dealer in town and it seems that if it doesn't have skis or knobby tires they don't have a clue what to do with it. I guess I'll go to the Honda dealer for my next tire change and see if they're any better.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

A little off topic, but damn, it's hard to check the tire pressure on this FJR. Almost no angle is good. Maybe I was tired.

 

[Niehart]

A little off topic, but damn, it's hard to check the tire pressure on this FJR. Almost no angle is good. Maybe I was tired.

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[ionbeam]

Bike Effects

Edit: Slow and second to post the same info.

 

[rwortman]

Balls of your feet on the footpegs is about being uncomfortable for no good reason. I have no idea why riding schools teach this. Watch a pro road race. They don't ride around with the ball of their foot on the peg. They mostly only do it on the inside peg in a steep leaning turn. At all other times the peg just just in front of their heel like we have been riding for 100 years. Moving your feet back and forth every time you need to use the brake and shifter just doesn't make much sense to me..... or every pro road racer I have ever seen. I adjusted my shifter down. I want to be able to reach the brake and shifter without having to lift my foot up from the peg. Too much motion reduces reaction time. The levers are tucked in pretty close to the bike. It's not hard to move your toe horizontally away from them and still be comfortably on the peg. Somebody call Rossi up and talk to him about his bad footwork.