Removing Front Wheel without scratching the rim w/calipers

[Fred W]

Send the pics to me

I'll be glad to host them and post them for you.

 

[bergmen]

Ah-So, rotating the fork bottoms, never thought of that. You still have to carefully disengage the calipers from the rotors though and it would seem to be very difficult to re-align everything when remounting the wheel.

I'm interested in the technique though.

Dan

 

[Big Sky]

Yes, it is tricky, so it requires some patience, but I wouldn't say "difficult." As I explained in the accompanying article, I keep handy a flat screwdriver to wedge the pads as far apart as possible during installation. I've probably spent as long as 10 minutes getting all to line up to slide the axle back in. It helps to get the wheel up on a 2x4 or something similar to get it at the correct height. I used to do this routinely with my '97 Blackbird XX, too. Picture sent to Fred.

 

[Fred W]

Here's Big Sky's photo showing the forks rotated out for the calipers to clear the rim:

Note that this will NOT work if you have a fork brace installed.

 

[Big Sky]

Fred is correct, re: the fork brace. The back wheel can also be removed without unbolting the caliper and brace. Either way, some painters tape to protect rim paint is probably advisable. Mine are so beat up, mostly from dismounting and mounting of rubber (the shop does this for me, clumsily), that I'm not overly concerned with wheel/caliper contact anymore.

 

[bergmen]

This technique also won't work with a Pit Bull front wheel stand (which is what I will using on my new FJR).

Dan

 

[Fred W]

Why? What's wrong with using the center stand?

(FWIW - I just take off the calipers. It only takes an extra minute or two per side)

 

[bergmen]

Fred, if your question is directed at me, I will be using the center stand. Then the Pit Bull to raise the front end to remove the front wheel (after rear wheel removal).

And in doing so, will remove the front calipers like I've always done.

I do think Big Sky's technique is pretty clever though.

Dan

 

[Fred W]

Oh, I see. I just put a floor jack under the header to lift the front wheel. It's only a few pounds of force required to elevate the front when on the center stand anyway. The only time I had ever used a wheel stand in the past was on bikes that did not have a center stand.

 

[deagle]

I'm happy to learn about the painters tape. I never thought of that. I always just tried to be very careful, but sometimes clunks do happen.

 

[Big Sky]

When removing both wheels at the same time, I will use tie-down straps at the triple tree and another on the garage truss with a come-along winch in between to hoist the front end. I do put blocks under the header and weight them somewhat. I don't want that falling on anyone or thing. Ever notice a bike without wheels resembles, in a conceptual way, an insect with the wings plucked off?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suspect you'd have to remove the front fender as well to rotate the forks for the Non caliper removal technique..

On my FZ (same as the gen 1 set up), I'll move the pads outward with the help of the disc and remove ONE side initially.

Once thats out of the way, you can pump the brake lever some (to move some fluid back out of the MC).

Repeat on the other side, pull that caliper. Fender stays in place, no fluid to pull, add or spill. No messing with the MC at all and easy to put back together..