Setting Up A 2013 FJR for LD Riding

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The bike I am describing is not a FJR at all - it's another bike entirely. The bike I'm describing is a long distance bike taken to another level. The K1600 is the closest match - and it is not a "whale" by any stretch of the imagination - ride one if you can. Just don't like the reliability issues that come with it. Yamaha could do a much better job with this class of bike if they wanted to get into that market. I hope they do - I'll be the first in line.

The after market stuff I bought for the FJR are for LD. I don't commute at all. If I was to buy this new wonder bike I'll be using the FJR for local/regional rides. GPS, Lights, etc. become redundant and could be resold or gifted. Riding the bike without cages or side bags would be the norm.

By all accounts RDL is the best seat for LD. It's just not "classically" beautiful - IMHO. Agreed - that me and my butt would argue about "classical" beauty.
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Visited with my FJR this week. Decided that while all the skin is off and hanging up I'd coat it with 3M Rock Guard. Goes on smooth enough, but . . . 1-4 days for curing? Seems to me this treatment is only applyible when the bike is going to be laid up for a week or more for other things.

Farkleing continues as does my physlical therapy for my hand. Hopefully I'll be ready when the bike is!

Shuey

PS: Mine is number #120

 
seems to be coming along well, shuey. hope you're ready when the bike is ready. and if your bike is 120, then mine must be 119. yep. 119. :)

 
I am replacing my driver footpegs with a set of these. I have a size 16 foot and the stock pegs are just too dang narrow. The extra width I think will allow for a little extra comfort without the feel of standing on the edge of a 2x4 all day long.
6898d3967cc1f213c6560d11118c72b3.jpg
As one of the "genetically superior"
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with a size 15 shoe, I was wondering what kind of pegs those are? They look real comfortable. I plan on getting a RDL as well with the 2014 FJR my wife is letting me trade up to.

 
Pegs are for the Goldwing from Kuryakyn. Look comfy but lots of bling there...
coolsmiley02.gif

--G
I'll be running a pair of stock GL1800 pegs on my FJR. Kreis had to grind off a little bit at the back of the peg so it would rotate in the FJR mounting hole. It works fine, is wider and longer than the FJR stock pegs. Much more comfortable to stand on. Black rubber, no bling.

A tip from the ST community . . . many Wing purchasers get floorboards mounted on their brand new wings and just leave the 'never used' stock pegs at the shop. I've gotten a couple pairs for free by just asking a mechanic if he had any.

Shuey

 
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Pegs are for the Goldwing from Kuryakyn. Look comfy but lots of bling there...
coolsmiley02.gif

--G
I'll be running a pair of stock GL1800 pegs on my FJR. Kreis had to grind off a little bit at the back of the peg so it would rotate in the FJR mounting hole. It works fine, is wider and longer than the FJR stock pegs. Much more comfortable to stand on. Black rubber, no bling.

A tip from the ST community . . . many Wing purchasers get floorboards mounted on their brand new wings and just leave the 'never used' stock pegs at the shop. I've gotten a couple pairs for free by just asking a mechanic if he had any.

Shuey
What or who is a Kreis? And was the peg just too long for the FJR hole?

 
Pegs are for the Goldwing from Kuryakyn. Look comfy but lots of bling there...
coolsmiley02.gif

--G
I'll be running a pair of stock GL1800 pegs on my FJR. Kreis had to grind off a little bit at the back of the peg so it would rotate in the FJR mounting hole. It works fine, is wider and longer than the FJR stock pegs. Much more comfortable to stand on. Black rubber, no bling.

A tip from the ST community . . . many Wing purchasers get floorboards mounted on their brand new wings and just leave the 'never used' stock pegs at the shop. I've gotten a couple pairs for free by just asking a mechanic if he had any.

Shuey
What or who is a Kreis? And was the peg just too long for the FJR hole?
Hi Millerspal,

Sorry about that. Kreis is my good friend in Knoxville who runs the STShop and is modifying my new FJR. He built two ST1300s for the IBRs, both of which I've . . . well, not treated as well as they deserved. : )

As for the peg, I'm having some difficulty describing where the grinding was needed. It doesn't have anything to do with the mounting hole, but the part of the peg between the hole and the bike. The metal at the end of the peg closest to the bike was touching and wouldn't allow the peg to rotate up on it's spring. Clearer?

It's wider, flatter and longer than the stock peg and I think more rubber contacting my boot bottom than the Kuryakyn (which BTW looks great I think).

I'll post up some pics of my farkle mounts to include the foot pegs when it's finished in early October.

Shuey

 
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Pegs are for the Goldwing from Kuryakyn. Look comfy but lots of bling there...
coolsmiley02.gif

--G
I'll be running a pair of stock GL1800 pegs on my FJR. Kreis had to grind off a little bit at the back of the peg so it would rotate in the FJR mounting hole. It works fine, is wider and longer than the FJR stock pegs. Much more comfortable to stand on. Black rubber, no bling.

A tip from the ST community . . . many Wing purchasers get floorboards mounted on their brand new wings and just leave the 'never used' stock pegs at the shop. I've gotten a couple pairs for free by just asking a mechanic if he had any.

Shuey
What or who is a Kreis? And was the peg just too long for the FJR hole?
Hi Millerspal,

Sorry about that. Kreis is my good friend in Knoxville who runs the STShop and is modifying my new FJR. He built two ST1300s for the IBRs, both of which I've . . . well, not treated as well as they deserved. : )

As for the peg, I'm having some difficulty describing where the grinding was needed. It doesn't have anything to do with the mounting hole, but the part of the peg between the hole and the bike. The metal at the end of the peg closest to the bike was touching and wouldn't allow the peg to rotate up on it's spring. Clearer?

It's wider, flatter and longer than the stock peg and I think more rubber contacting my boot bottom than the Kuryakyn (which BTW looks great I think).

I'll post up some pics of my farkle mounts to include the foot pegs when it's finished in early October.

Shuey
Shuey,

That actually makes it much clearer. I can't wait to see how it looks in your future pictures. I will start the hunt for a set of GL1800 pegs too. Better to have them before hand. Did you do anything to the rear pegs or are they as-is because you LD ride solo?

 
Pegs are for the Goldwing from Kuryakyn. Look comfy but lots of bling there...
coolsmiley02.gif

--G
I'll be running a pair of stock GL1800 pegs on my FJR. Kreis had to grind off a little bit at the back of the peg so it would rotate in the FJR mounting hole. It works fine, is wider and longer than the FJR stock pegs. Much more comfortable to stand on. Black rubber, no bling.

A tip from the ST community . . . many Wing purchasers get floorboards mounted on their brand new wings and just leave the 'never used' stock pegs at the shop. I've gotten a couple pairs for free by just asking a mechanic if he had any.

Shuey
What or who is a Kreis? And was the peg just too long for the FJR hole?
Hi Millerspal,

Sorry about that. Kreis is my good friend in Knoxville who runs the STShop and is modifying my new FJR. He built two ST1300s for the IBRs, both of which I've . . . well, not treated as well as they deserved. : )

As for the peg, I'm having some difficulty describing where the grinding was needed. It doesn't have anything to do with the mounting hole, but the part of the peg between the hole and the bike. The metal at the end of the peg closest to the bike was touching and wouldn't allow the peg to rotate up on it's spring. Clearer?

It's wider, flatter and longer than the stock peg and I think more rubber contacting my boot bottom than the Kuryakyn (which BTW looks great I think).

I'll post up some pics of my farkle mounts to include the foot pegs when it's finished in early October.

Shuey
Shuey,

That actually makes it much clearer. I can't wait to see how it looks in your future pictures. I will start the hunt for a set of GL1800 pegs too. Better to have them before hand. Did you do anything to the rear pegs or are they as-is because you LD ride solo?
Millerspal,

I'll have an aux fuel cell with a Pelican box on top of it that will half cover the rear seat. No room for a pillion rider, so the passenger pegs are only used to sometimes support the heels of my boots with toes resting on the riders pegs. At least that was one of my favorite positions on my ST1300. It remains to be seen what will be comfortable on my great FJR. Really looking forward to finding out!

Shuey

 
Whew . . . time sure flies when you're having fun.

First, follow-up on the 3M Rock Guard . . . DON"T USE IT!

I followed all the directions, built a paint booth of sorts and sprayed all the new plastic after cleaning it all as directed. Three coats, each crossing the one previously applied, again as directed. Let set for two days, then placed out in the sunlight to cure - as directed. Then reassembled onto the new FJR.

It looked . . . maaavalous!

Within a few days some blemishes started to appear, sort of like small holes in the clear plastic. Not a lot, kind of like paint dulled by bug guts left on to long (only without any bugs in this case.)

The real problems occurred while riding in the cold. The Rock Guard shrunk then expanded with the temperature changes causing what looked like cuts or thick scratches. Actually the raggedy lines were the puckered plastic of the rock guard.

Next let down. Advertising and videos tell you that if you don't like it, it'll be a breeze to just"peel it off." Nope. The shrink/expand cycle that puckered some of it had to get the extra material for the puckered part from somewhere and it came from the surrounding space making it thinner.

Called 3M and they told me the Rock Guard probably wouldn't work on motorcycles, to many curved pieces. If it won't peal off, maybe acetone would take it off, but "be careful or you'll be taking your paint off with it."

So . . . it must be a job for professionals instead of a DIY project for inept people like me. ; )

Shuey

 
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OK, uploaded pics to Photobucket . . . like I did for "nutsy" pics, which worked fine, but everything I copy to my post gives me a message that the file extension can be used.

Now, I tried to edit my Post #51 and I get "You do not have permission for this action."

Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated.

Very frustrated,

Shuey

PS: Just checked, I can edit this post, but still can't get to the last one. Color me confused.

 
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Lots of cool farkles. Which TPMS system is pictured?
Doran. It has external sensors that screw onto each valve stem and last about 2 years if left on all the time. When taken off and not pressurized they stop transmitting and using up battery power. So when the bike is going to be idle for awhile, I just screw them off and set them on the seat.

The monitor display is hard wired for bike power.

Shuey

 
Lots of cool farkles. Which TPMS system is pictured?
Doran. It has external sensors that screw onto each valve stem and last about 2 years if left on all the time. When taken off and not pressurized they stop transmitting and using up battery power. So when the bike is going to be idle for awhile, I just screw them off and set them on the seat.

The monitor display is hard wired for bike power.

Shuey
So are you using the sensors on regular valve stems or 90 degree valve stems? I thought I remembered reading about people not having enough clearance when using 90 degree stems.

 
Lots of cool farkles. Which TPMS system is pictured?
Doran. It has external sensors that screw onto each valve stem and last about 2 years if left on all the time. When taken off and not pressurized they stop transmitting and using up battery power. So when the bike is going to be idle for awhile, I just screw them off and set them on the seat.

The monitor display is hard wired for bike power.

Shuey
So are you using the sensors on regular valve stems or 90 degree valve stems? I thought I remembered reading about people not having enough clearance when using 90 degree stems.
I use them on 90 degree Ariete valve stems. No problems and much easier to access the stems to adjust air pressure in tires.

Shuey

 
Lots of cool farkles. Which TPMS system is pictured?
Doran. It has external sensors that screw onto each valve stem and last about 2 years if left on all the time. When taken off and not pressurized they stop transmitting and using up battery power. So when the bike is going to be idle for awhile, I just screw them off and set them on the seat.

The monitor display is hard wired for bike power.

Shuey
So are you using the sensors on regular valve stems or 90 degree valve stems? I thought I remembered reading about people not having enough clearance when using 90 degree stems.
I use them on 90 degree Ariete valve stems. No problems and much easier to access the stems to adjust air pressure in tires.

Shuey
Interesting....... definitely there is interference with front brake calipers using the Doran 90 degree stems, but the Ariete's are much lower profile. One member here reported interference with the Ariete style, using smaller sensors than Doran's........ hmmmmm. Will have to look into that when I change my front tire this spring. Maybe Gen III has slimmer brake calipers?

 
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On photo #2 'the left side" - I was going to ask you what the guage was that was mounted to the top of your topbox.

 

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