Shift Pivot Bolt

[Gitbox]

Does anyone know the torque spec for the shift pivot bolt shown in the picture below? I cannot find it anywhere in the factory service manual for the A model. It only shows details for the AE model.

Thanks.

 

[Fred W]

The torque on that is not significant, but it is very small. The pressure on the linkage is created by the wave washer in the stack. You just tighten the screw down until snug and the washer does all the work. Make sure all surfaces are clean and well greased.

 

[RossKean]

What Fred said. DO NOT overtighten it otherwise the shifter will bind. I think a bit of Locktite (blue) on the threads is needed to keep it secure.

 

[Gitbox]

Thanks for the quick feedback - love the help I get here!

It's only that it was pretty hard to remove. It had LOTS of blue Locktite on it.

I took it apart for cleaning because it was all gummed up with excess grease and shmoo thrown off of the u-joint. That is a whole other issue - excessive use of grease by the previous owner or whoever. A case where they thought "if a little is good, a LOT is better".

I should have taken a photo before I cleaned it.

By the way, it is a shouldered bolt so it can't bind the shifter. Over tightening can only strip the threads.

 

[ionbeam]

By the way, it is a shouldered bolt so it can't bind the shifter. Over tightening can only strip the threads.

Actually, you can over tighten the shouldered bolt. If the wave washer is even mostly flattened it will bind enough that the shift drum will not come back to a neutral position all the time. When you go to shift there will be no gear there until you return the shift lever to the neutral position with you toe.

Edit: To Fred's point below, my '04 would be almost impossible to move the shift lever with shoulder bolt even slightly snug. I just tightened the bolt until the wave washer would start to compress and then trusted locktite to keep the bolt in place. It worked with no problems for 110k miles.

 

[Fred W]

Technically, the parts dimensions should prevent the above from happening. The length of the shoulder bolt is supposed to be exactly what is needed to put only the proper pressure on the wave washer.

Practically, some people have experienced the problem above for one reason or another, so it is certainly possible.

FWIW, both my '05 and '14 can be tightened fully without the shifter binding.

 

[Donal]

If you are worried about overtightening the 'wave washer' why not fit a suitable washer under the shoulder?

 

[ionbeam]

The wave washer is intended to keep the shift lever from moving in & out yet keep the pivot moving freely.

 

[Snudge]

What RossKean said.

 

[Donal]

If you are worried about overtightening the 'wave washer' why not fit a suitable washer spacer under the shoulder?

It might have been clearer if I had said 'spacer'. Then you could tighten down as hard as you like without over tightening the 'wave washer'.

 

[Fred W]

I understood what you meant. If your wave washer puts too much pressure on the shift lever, you would want to put a shim on the threaded section of the shoulder bolt (that is the same OD as the shank or smaller) to effectively make the shoulder bolt longer and reduce that pressure. I would do that before I just left the shoulder bolt loose.

But if all of the parts are clean and not damaged or distorted, the shoulder bolt should be tightened fully (albeit torqued lightly) in it's threaded hole, and the wave washer should not bind the lever from pivoting, just restrain it from rattling / moving laterally on the shaft.

 

[RossKean]

But if all of the parts are clean and not damaged or distorted, the shoulder bolt should be tightened fully (albeit torqued lightly) in it's threaded hole, and the wave washer should not bind the lever from pivoting, just restrain it from rattling / moving laterally on the shaft.

As far as I know, mine has never been damaged or distorted. The first time I serviced the shift lever, I tightened the pivot bolt "normally". The wave washer ended out pretty much flat and there was significant resistance to pivoting freely. I ended out backing it off a quarter turn or so. Fairly snug but not really tight - blue Locktite has kept it from working its way loose. I'll have a good look at it this winter. (I have some MAJOR routine maintenance to do this year - I pretty much neglected it last year.) Perhaps a thin shim (1/2 mm or less) below the shoulder (threaded portion) would be appropriate.

 

[Donal]

I understood what you meant. If your wave washer puts too much pressure on the shift lever, you would want to put a shim on the threaded section of the shoulder bolt (that is the same OD as the shank or smaller) to effectively make the shoulder bolt longer and reduce that pressure. I would do that before I just left the shoulder bolt loose.
But if all of the parts are clean and not damaged or distorted, the shoulder bolt should be tightened fully (albeit torqued lightly) in it's threaded hole, and the wave washer should not bind the lever from pivoting, just restrain it from rattling / moving laterally on the shaft.

Thanks Fred, that's what I was trying to say..............