stripped drain bolt

[v65]

I wasnt able to get my crush washer off ont he last oil chanhe

All you need is to lay the bolt sideways and use a very thin straight edge screw driver to pry in-between.

Since (I am assuming) you re-used the crush washer, you haven't had any leakage?

Would it be okay to re-use a crush washer once? Anyone care to comment?

The crush washer is made of a softer material than the pan and drain bolt. This allows it form more closely to the two surfaces, preventing leakage. This creates tiny little "dents" in the washer, which you can't see but are there. When you reuse it, unless you manage to somehow get it in the exact same orientation, it has these dents and forms some new ones. So in theory you should change the washer every time, as the washers ability to form a perfect seal is reduced.

In practice I have used the same crush repeatedly on my car with no leaks. BTW, the crush washer is there for leakage protection, nothing else. So if it ain't leaking, the washer is working The way to check for leakage is to start with a very clean area surrounding the drain bolt - I use WD-40 to clean the area. Assuming there are no leaks while sitting, go out and run the engine as normal for 10-20 minutes to check for leaks with some oil pressure (so run it in the higher rpm's - honest officer I was just checking to make sure the engine is OK). As you do this make some stops, if the area is still dry you should be good to go, although periodic checks are in order thereafter.

 

[sdrake]

If using a torque wrench, the crush washer present or absent will not affect the tendancy of the drain bolt to strip out. The washer increases the number of turns before stripping out the thread, but it does not change the torque at which the thread strips. It will take more turns to strip out with the washer but it will not take more torque.

Steve

 

[C&C]

Also, when changing-out a crush washer, the new washer has a correct orientation when installing. If you look at the new crush washer, there is a flat side and a rounded raised side. The flatter side goes towards the oil pan and the raised/rounder side towards the flat of the oil pan bolt. The reason for this is that the oil pan has a machined flat surface and the bolt's flat is a little less regular so the crushable side will more readily crush and conform to the bolt. Practically speaking, it probable doesn't make too much difference, but theorectically that's how the new washer should be installed.

 

[dbvolfan]

I wasnt able to get my crush washer off ont he last oil chanhe

All you need is to lay the bolt sideways and use a very thin straight edge screw driver to pry in-between.

Since (I am assuming) you re-used the crush washer, you haven't had any leakage?

Would it be okay to re-use a crush washer once? Anyone care to comment?

No leakage at all 2k miles later. I tried to use a very small flat head (one of those screwdrivers you use on a watch battery cover) but still could not wedge it in there. I am sure with a littl emore ffort I could have done it but the 9month old woke up and the momma was calling for me inside.

 

[dfpextraordinaire]

<_< <_< <_< yo malve!!!

It happened to me too, last year... first oil change and "shit" i done it too!!! Take it to your friendly, helpful YammaMamma dealer and tell 'em you done "fucked up" and they (at least my dealer in Cottage Grove, Oregon did) will make you all happy and take your stress away for a mere $50 bucks. They did an insert which is the best, way mo betta than a heli-coil from what I know...

Don't stress just go on from here and enjoy your new machine, I think I'm in love!

take care and ride safe>>> :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: summer's cummin!

 

[Malve]

update:

Brought the bike in last Tuesday...

they never called me with an update...

I called Thursday late afternoon and no straight answer and a promise of a call back later in the day

when I called in Friday, the service rep. quoted me $500 for blah, blah blah

Made a bunch of noise today and voila, bike fixed with an insert within an hour at no charge. Thank you Pat at Alba Action for making it happen.

Happy trails once again.

 

[Malve]

update:Brought the bike in last Tuesday...

they never called me with an update...

I called Thursday late afternoon and no straight answer and a promise of a call back later in the day

when I called in Friday, the service rep. quoted me $500 for blah, blah blah

Made a bunch of noise today and voila, bike fixed with an insert within an hour at no charge. Thank you Pat at Alba Action for making it happen.

Happy trails once again.

Update # 2

Over time the Heli-Coil insert failed and after my last oil change a couple of weeks ago, a steady drip developed. I ordered a new oil pan last week for instalation on Monday in part for peace of mind for WFO. The pan arrived with a cracked gasket and the dealer is swearing that a new gasket is to arrive and be installed today. I've got my fingers crossed as it is my intention to leave for PC tomorrow.

On a separate note, I damn near busted my hand/wrist a few of weeks ago. The x-rays say I'm ok but the pain says otherwise, so at the risk of losing the "most Farkle-less" award at WFO, yesterday, I ordered throttlemeisters for overnight delivery.

 

[ELP_JC]

I ordered throttlemeisters for overnight delivery.

Hope your troubles are over man; what a hard way to learn. I NEVER torque drain bolts, and never a problem either.

My final drive bolt was almost stripped from the factory (had a hell of a time removing it, and was tight as hell). After cleaning everything, it went in fine, and seems to hold torque well (crossing fingers here).

Reason I mentioned that is apparently the factory overtorqued those drain bolts in most of our bikes, and are prone to stripping already, so even if you torque everything, DON'T do it on the drain bolts if you want to avoid Malve's fate.

I also hope you don't have a fused barend grommet's sleeve, like I did, but if you have that trouble during your TM install, I posted how to remove it without messing up the clipon. Best of luck.

JC

 

[Kelsey]

After doing exactly what I could have avoided by reading more threads (or perhaps just using some common sense), I (like others before me) tried to tighten the bolt with a "dork wrench" to 31lbs and now it's just spinning loosely.
First question...Is it ever just the bolt and not the pan?

2nd... Even though the bolt is spinning loosely, I let the bike run for a few minutes and it wasn't leaking.

Is it safe to ride to the shop (six miles)?

Any other advice?

Thanks.

Admins. feel free to move to pointless never ending or anywhere else you see fit.

How did your issue ever work out? Mine stripped on my 600 mile oil change tonight. I'm soooo pisssed! No way can I settle for a patch work repair for this, I've save too long for this baby to know something with the bike is not quite up to par.