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aroostook

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I cringe to ask this question because I know I have seen these specific questions addressed but I cant find these particular threads even when I search. I have a 2009 and I did a TBS at 800 miles and now have 7000. What I have read on this forum was to synch up the throttle bodies to number 3. I tried that but I ran out of adjustment on one of them (I think it was number 2 but cant be sure) so I just adjusted them so that they were all even. I was sucessful doing this. As some people on this post have commented, I personally felt no difference in the machines idle or performance. I still have a somewhat jerky throttle at low speeds which of course in no problem in the majority of riding I do but I would like to mellow it our some. The other issue I have is that my idle is on the low side of 1100 and it wont adjust any higher. Can someone give me a few clues as to what I should do. I will probably do another TBS this weekend and I have read that some folk screw them down and back them off ???????? but cant find that referance either. So I need to know if there is a way to smooth the response and what should I do about the idle? Thanks in advance for any help.

 
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I did the TBS on my 2009 at about 700 miles. It idles at about 1,000. When I initially hooked up the Morgan Carbtune the pressures were already in tolerance, with the differences more apparent on revving. I matched them up to #3 by turning #1 out a quarter turn, #2 out 1/8, #4 out 1/8. The pressure readings were very sensitive to turning the adjustment screws. There was no audible difference in the engine during the tune probably due to the small ranges covered. Prior to the TBS it had a tendency to stall at initial throttle roll-on and that no longer happens, but it is also getting broken in now so I don’t know if the TBS had anything to do with this.

Not much information for you here perhaps other than to possibly suspect your readings or tool. Which one are you using?

 
I did the TBS on my 2009 at about 700 miles. It idles at about 1,000. When I initially hooked up the Morgan Carbtune the pressures were already in tolerance, with the differences more apparent on revving. I matched them up to #3 by turning #1 out a quarter turn, #2 out 1/8, #4 out 1/8. The pressure readings were very sensitive to turning the adjustment screws. There was no audible difference in the engine during the tune probably due to the small ranges covered. Prior to the TBS it had a tendency to stall at initial throttle roll-on and that no longer happens, but it is also getting broken in now so I don’t know if the TBS had anything to do with this.Not much information for you here perhaps other than to possibly suspect your readings or tool. Which one are you using?
I, like many on the forum, made my own TBS synch tool. I dont suspect thats the problem as it seemed to work as it was supposed to. It was pretty rock solid. When I adjusted mine, I think it was #2 that I coudnt turn down enough so I matched it to the next highest measure and it synched. Mine never stalled nor does it now. It seems to surge somwhat at low speeds. Its a rocket any other time. Even if I settle for this I still have the idle issue. Id like to bump it up a tad but have no more adjustment. huh:

 
Turn CCW (open) the #3 air screw 1-1/2 turns and then adjust the other three screws for balance with #3. This will raise the idle rpm and you'll adjust for 1100 with the knurled idle knob under the right fairing.

Opening the air screws brings more combustion air into the engine which raises the idle rpm.

 
Turn CCW (open) the #3 air screw 1-1/2 turns and then adjust the other three screws for balance with #3. This will raise the idle rpm and you'll adjust for 1100 with the knurled idle knob under the right fairing.
Opening the air screws brings more combustion air into the engine which raises the idle rpm.
So that I understand, I turn number 3 down all the way, back it out 11/2 turns, then adjust the other to it? Whats a CCW hahaha? Im serious! :blink:

 
Turn the #3 screw counterclockwise 1-1/2 turns from its present position -- not from its fully closed clockwise position. The body of the screw comes out towards you as you turn it in a counterclockwise direction. As the screw moves out towards you more air is alllowed to enter the engine and the idle rpm increases.

1-1/2 turns is an arbitrary number but probably a reasonable one. You don't want to turn the screws out towards you too much -- they might possibly come completely out of the throttle bodies. That wouldn't be good.

So, 1 to 1-1/2 turns is probably enough to get your 1100 rpm idle.

 

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