Took delivery, YIKES!!!

[Geezer]

The steering head bearings are ball bearings. If you want to torque the lock nuts to spec. then you will need the special wrench with the correct size and hole that fits a half in square drive torque wrench. If you are an experienced wrench you can probably use your calibrated wrist to adjust the lock nuts. I have done this successfully on my cars and trucks many times. However, for a motorcycle, I prefer to play it safe and use a torque wrench. Motorcycles seem to have a lot smaller tolerance range for mistakes, and the results can be disastrous.

 

[Jim Dandy]

I just need a spanner wrench to adjust the lock nut, correct? I have a set of these from adjusting my sleds over the years, but there is no way measure torque with them.

Well thats part of the trick, the spanner wrench is machine specific. Not only do you need the size of the nut you need the distance from the center of the nut to the hole for the torque wrench to get the proper torque.

Check this thread for the correct wrench.

Should I not use an adjustable set? They are hinged in the middle to fit multiple sizes.

Thanks everyone!

 

[v65]

See, now you are going to go and make me recall some stuff that I had forgotten when I made my original offer:lol:

The last discussion on this topic concluded that the torque spec for the head bearing was a guideline to get you in the right ballpark. First you set the bearings use a higher torque (as you indicated), loosen and then retighten. On the second torque you want the steering to be tight (you can't feel slop when you pull on the forks from the bottom), but not too tight - ie you can turn the handlebars easily. In short, the correct torque is a feel thing, so if you are comfortable with that, your tools should work just fine.

'Course that way you don't get the priviledge of buying a forum member a beer

 

[Jim Dandy]

See, now you are going to go and make me recall some stuff that I had forgotten when I made my original offer:lol: The last discussion on this topic concluded that the torque spec for the head bearing was a guideline to get you in the right ballpark. First you set the bearings use a higher torque (as you indicated), loosen and then retighten. On the second torque you want the steering to be tight (you can't feel slop when you pull on the forks from the bottom), but not too tight - ie you can turn the handlebars easily. In short, the correct torque is a feel thing, so if you are comfortable with that, your tools should work just fine.

'Course that way you don't get the priviledge of buying a forum member a beer

Okay, I gave in, this afternoon I dropped of my latest toy with the Yamaha dealer, explained my issues, they claimed they never checked the steering bearings torques, so I left my black cherry baby with them. On another note, I realized the front ABS unit was not aligned with the fork, showed them that, and Doc (the mech) will take care of all my problems.

To make me feel better, Doc showed me the floating disc klunk, but assured me they will check everything over.

V65: If you are in the area, let me know, I would love to socialize with another forum member (i.e. buy you a pint or two!).

Or any other member...

Thanks,

-Jimbo

 

[conwest]

Quote:"To make me feel better, Doc showed me the floating disc klunk, but assured me they will check everything over." :blink: ....what?! ...all this talk about head bearings and wrenches and stuff and it may come down to the (simple) rotor play? I hate to say I told you so but.... :clapping:

 

[RacinRay]

I bought my last two Hondas from JAF Motors in Scotia. (They couldn't get me an FJR so I went to Troy City Garage) Charlie will give you a great price on a bike but his service department SUCKS. Doc has a reputation as a butcher and should not be trusted to work on your bike.

I do most of the work on my bikes myself, but I have used Troy City Garage several times for warranty work. It may be a longer ride but you'll sleep better.

I'll look for you on the road.

 

[AGirl]

So I rode home my new toy yesterday, a whole mile from the stealership. To begin with, oil is overfilled, and gas tank (dealer claimed was full) was bone dry when he said goodbye.

I, for one, would be interested in knowing the name of this stealership since I will be in that area soon; should something drastic occur w/my bike I'd like to know where NOT to take it. In fact, I'd rather push it to the next state then deal w/such incompetence. :angry: If for some reason you are not comfortable posting the name/place, would you plz PM me w/the information?

Best wishes w/your new toy and finding a new place to do business.

AGirl

 

[cougar8000]

Have taken fronts off of many bikes and put them back together and never used the tool, yes I said tool , for the steering head. Like was said before it is more feel then anything else.

 

[v65]

V65: If you are in the area, let me know, I would love to socialize with another forum member (i.e. buy you a pint or two!).Or any other member...

Thanks,

-Jimbo

Will be up near you in May (haven't set a date yet - taking my son on a tour of the Adirondacks), and again in June for Americade.

 

[Jim Dandy]

I bought my last two Hondas from JAF Motors in Scotia. (They couldn't get me an FJR so I went to Troy City Garage) Charlie will give you a great price on a bike but his service department SUCKS. Doc has a reputation as a butcher and should not be trusted to work on your bike.
I do most of the work on my bikes myself, but I have used Troy City Garage several times for warranty work. It may be a longer ride but you'll sleep better.

I'll look for you on the road.

See, now, I have been told the same about Troy City Garage, buy it there, but never bring it in for service. They worked on a sled of mine, ONCE, enough said, and will not see my business. Now Phibbs on the other hand, I have had no dealing with. My buddy bought his Duck there, and loves them, but JAF is right around the corner, and I this makes my fourth bike from Charlie (first one was when they were on Broadway in Sch'dy). They have taken care of me in the past, but he really hasn't done much of any warranty work for me.

So I will look for you this summer, if the summer ever arrives!

-Jimbo

 

[netmask]

Okay, I gave in, this afternoon I dropped of my latest toy with the Yamaha dealer, explained my issues, they claimed they never checked the steering bearings torques, so I left my black cherry baby with them. On another note, I realized the front ABS unit was not aligned with the fork, showed them that, and Doc (the mech) will take care of all my problems.
To make me feel better, Doc showed me the floating disc klunk, but assured me they will check everything over.

Did they find anything else? My new 07 FJR has the exact same clunk.. (I think).

I took it back after about 10 miles and asked the mechanic (He and his wife both have FJRs as well) what was going on.. everytime I braked it felt like the front end was gonna come apart.. but he told me it was the ABS.

He said 'Notice it clunks when you are stopping slowly.. but if you stop rapidly, it won't clunk'. That didn't make sense to me, since I thought ABS (at least in cars) only kicks in during a quick stop. But I went and tried it, and he was right.. it didn't clunk when I braked hard, but it would when i braked slowly.

Im at 550 miles now, it doesn't seem to have lessened any. Is there a "fix" for the rotor thing, or is that working as it should? Would like to mention it when I take it in on Wednesday for my 600 service