Chuck35
Well-known member
Tonight I buttoned it up after installing a Rostra cruise control. There are a few bugs to work out, but it works!
What did you do to your FJR today?
- Thread starter CheesyRider
- Start date
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TheZsdad
Mr. Bill goes for a ride!
New brake fluid front, back and clutch. New plugs. Rotated the tires.
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
TheZsdad
Mr. Bill goes for a ride!
Glad you caught that.I hope you rotated those tires repeatedly for at least an hour or two.
d in the d
Member
I have to say that I'm feeling like a bit of a post whore here but I guess that is the point here, right??
Thanks to the posts before me for the tips on the install because I put on my fenda extenda using the abs glue install method. It makes for a smooth look.
Maybe tomorrow my post whore count will be +1 when the episode will be entitled...
Re-Installed my front fender, after I went down town, to look for a job, then I found a job.
Keeping people from hanging out in front of the drug store...
Thanks to the posts before me for the tips on the install because I put on my fenda extenda using the abs glue install method. It makes for a smooth look.
Maybe tomorrow my post whore count will be +1 when the episode will be entitled...
Re-Installed my front fender, after I went down town, to look for a job, then I found a job.
Keeping people from hanging out in front of the drug store...
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
d in the d,
The only problem with your "post whore" theory is post counts don't go up when posting in NEPRT.
Start posting in the "FJR Motorcycle Forums" subforum and with a little time, and a LOT of BS, you can get your post count up there!
The only problem with your "post whore" theory is post counts don't go up when posting in NEPRT.
Start posting in the "FJR Motorcycle Forums" subforum and with a little time, and a LOT of BS, you can get your post count up there!
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TheZsdad
Mr. Bill goes for a ride!
SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
Snugged up the drive shaft drain bolt, noticed there was some seepage, might have to put on a new washer.
rbentnail
Economic Plankton
Pulled the rear wheel and cleaned it up. Rotated (in to out, out to in) the rear brake pads and cleaned/lubed caliper. Removed drive punkin, shaft & universal & cleaned/lubed. Then reassembled after cleaning some of the road splooge from inside the swing arm. While I had the left foot peg/side stand assembly loose I went ahead and cleaned/lubed the shifter and stand too.
The one problem I had was that the drive shaft was particularly difficult to remove from the punkin. Splines looks good, still lubed from last year but the seal did not want to turn loose. Other than that all went good.
The one problem I had was that the drive shaft was particularly difficult to remove from the punkin. Splines looks good, still lubed from last year but the seal did not want to turn loose. Other than that all went good.
SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
Went for a ride on Ortega Highway.
Got home and adjusted the suspension front and rear on the bike.
Noticed I have MANY more "clicks" of adjustment than it states in the manual.
For instance, I have 45 clicks on one of the adjustments on the front end, manual says only 21 total, weird!
Got home and adjusted the suspension front and rear on the bike.
Noticed I have MANY more "clicks" of adjustment than it states in the manual.
For instance, I have 45 clicks on one of the adjustments on the front end, manual says only 21 total, weird!
There's no need to remove the drive shaft from the pumpkin (rear gear housing) for preventive maintenance as the rear spline is behind the seal and is lubricated with gear oil. FWIW, you may have noticed that the shaft is sprung at the rear to force it all the way forward, and to fully engage the front splines at all times. The rear, well lubricated spline is the one that needs to slip longitudinally when/if the shaft length needs to change.
The front shaft spline that engages the universal joint only needs to slip when being assembled or disassembled, but is prone to corrosion if left untreated too long.
I suspect that this was on the rebound damping adjuster (on top) right? Have you ever had any fork service done before?
The number of clicks on those upper adjusters can be affected by how the cap is installed on the damper shaft. It is supposed to be threaded all the way on and then the lock nut brought up to the thread bound cap. If the cap was left up a bit (not threaded all the way) that increases the apparent length of the shaft. The little damper actuator that runs inside the shaft is a fixed length, so it would increase the range.
You were correct to start from the fully (lightly) seated position (full CW = maximum damping) and back off from the the the desired number of clicks. The fully seated position is your reference that will not change.
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Changed my first rear tire, Possibly a little early but I'm conservative like that when it comes to tires.
All went well followed the instructions on fjrtech, except added the abs bit, bu no biggie. Was much easier to put back Han I thought based on some posts , but all lined up well , used my Honda moly 60 and m new 1/2 torque wrench as my old one didnt go to 90 ft/lb
Changed fom a pr2 to a t30 , went for a "scrub the tire" 50 mile ride , before going for a Tahoe ride tomorrow. I think I'm now one with this Summr riding seasons maint.
All went well followed the instructions on fjrtech, except added the abs bit, bu no biggie. Was much easier to put back Han I thought based on some posts , but all lined up well , used my Honda moly 60 and m new 1/2 torque wrench as my old one didnt go to 90 ft/lb
Changed fom a pr2 to a t30 , went for a "scrub the tire" 50 mile ride , before going for a Tahoe ride tomorrow. I think I'm now one with this Summr riding seasons maint.
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Powerman
Well-known member
Got back the forks with the AK-20 cartridges, new bushings and seals. Chased up all the threads and installed.
Cleaned up the front calipers and put in new pads. In the morning the new Penske shock and clean up the linkage.
Cleaned up the front calipers and put in new pads. In the morning the new Penske shock and clean up the linkage.
ahchiu
FJR Commander
I changed the cam on my G2 throttle tube to the stock 100 cam shape, I had my bike on the dyno to get the mapping on the PC5 smoothed out of the OFF-ON throttle problem, it ran great, really smooth but the acceleration wasn't as quick as other FJR's I realized the G2 cam was pulling the cable slower in the first 20% of twist. Now it shoots out of the hole quicker with better response with initial throttle twist.
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rbentnail
Economic Plankton
steveoreno
Well-known member
Last year I put a Cox radiator guard on, so far this year I put PR3's on and just yesterday put the factory touring screen on. The additional protection is great, who knows maybe some new slip ons next?
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rbentnail
Economic Plankton
More maintenance stuff done today- replaced the brake and clutch fluids. WooHoo. Then another leisurely ride (mostly) for my fave greasy slimy beer-battered deep-fried tater wedges. Man oh man slathered with ketchup and Texas Pete with a cold iced tea, it sure was fine!!! You know those simple times when you think, "damn! Life is good."? This was one of 'em, except for the chicken manure spread on the fields. Ain't nothin' in this world like a full face helmet filled up with the taste of fresh chicken shit.....
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Chuck35
Well-known member
Rode it from Chicago to Atlanta. I became one with my gps and cruise control.
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