Wheel Stand Or Lift

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I was thinking about buying a set of "Pit Bull" type motorcycle wheel stands.
er... why not just make a "Sky hook" like so many of the rest of us have?

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/shb/shb02.jpg

as duscussed here:

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/maint/shb/shb.html

and detailed construction tips here:

https://www.micapeak.com/bike/FJR1300/howto/frontstand.html

I made mine with longer uprights so that it can also be used to hold up the gas tank and hang the mercury sticks when doing tbs's.

 
FJReady --

I'd recommend not using the two tank bolts for lifting the FJR. Those 6 mm bolts have fine threads screwed into the aluminum frame. This is a very weak fastener system. The recommended torque for those bolts is only 7.2 lb-ft.

An alternative lifting scheme is to thread a strap through the left-to-right frame opening located just behind the steering head pipe. This is the opening the wiring, cables, etc. pass through. A strap will not interfere with the wiring, etc. You can then connect a lifting device to the strap and lift and support the bike. This technique also centers the forks and wheel since it applies equal force to both sides of the steering head upper bracket.

 
I made one of the pipe stands out of 1" black pipe and if you used the jack under the header area with the two blocks like Pierre, then you could attach the front to the pipe stand and have plenty of clearance under the front wheel.

That pipe stand is not going to collapese that I can see.

Mine is 5' high by 3' wide.

Chester

 
Put a 1" high piece of wood under the center stand (makes it a little harder to get up), but then the rear wheel removal is much easier. Gives just that little extra bit of room.

 
Matt, just come over to my house and use my front jack stand...after you do what you need to do...we can go riding... :D smitty

 
Mesh,

I'm not too concerned about the strength of that joint, not considering what I'm asking it to do. Yes, cast aluminum is not that strong but using a pair of 6mm bolts in it to hold a modest load is not to worry about.

I didn't check the specified torque value so I'm glad you did. I did a little math to check bolted jooint characteristics:

If a single 6mm screw is torqued to 7.2 foot-lbs, dry threads, the resulting preload in the screw would be roughly 1500 lbs. So until that single screw load exceeds 1500 lbs, the preload is never overcome and the worst load the aluminum threads will ever see is the load due to tightening. And we're talking about 2 screws here.

So thats really enough to satisfy me, but to continue: Dirt cheap die-cast aluminum material has a shear strength of about 28,000 psi, so for the sake of arguement lets say Yamaha used really crap material(I'm sure they don't) that has a shear strength of 20,000 psi. If again that single screw had 15 mm of thread engagement in the aluminum frame, the shear stress in the material would be approximately 8500 psi due to the tightening torque. So it appears to me that Yamaha has done a good job designing the joint conservatively. As with any proper joint the worst load experienced is the one from initial tightening(preload) of the fastener(s). FWIW the 6mm screw made of moderate strength material would hold about 2800 lbs (again, single screw) before failure.

Bottom line is that the two screw bolted joint could easily hold the whole bike quite easily, but I'm only asking to hold a fraction of one- most of the weight is still on center stand.

A quick estimate of the hook itself says it would hold 1000 pounds easily, based on its thickness and material. I think its the weakest link in this joint.

Sorry for long winded explaination- and thanks for your concern, it made me go crank a few numbers to be sure I didn't have any surprises.

FJReady

 
So thats really enough to satisfy me, but to continue: Dirt cheap die-cast aluminum material has a shear strength of about 28,000 psi, so for the sake of arguement lets say Yamaha used really crap material(I'm sure they don't) that has a shear strength of 20,000 psi. If again that single screw had 15 mm of thread engagement in the aluminum frame, the shear stress in the material would be approximately 8500 psi due to the tightening torque. So it appears to me that Yamaha has done a good job designing the joint conservatively. As with any proper joint the worst load experienced is the one from initial tightening(preload) of the fastener(s). FWIW the 6mm screw made of moderate strength material would hold about 2800 lbs (again, single screw) before failure.
WOW!!!! I think some guy's use way to many brain cell this early in the morning. Not that it is a bad thing, just more than I have to spare.. :eek:

 
I picked up a couple additional hooks while shopping for some mundane household stuff. So if anybody wants one PM me. For $10 I'll send you the lifthook and 6 screws; two for hook and four to replace the stock ones in your hand controls clamps. Postage included (US). It does make a nice place to secure your magnetic tank bag too.

FJReady

cockpit9-1-05.jpg


 
I've just taken delivery of a "Pit-bull" type front stand

Unfortunately I've never used one so can you experienced guys tell me of any issues I need to be careful of when raising/lowering?

Cheers

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 
I've just taken delivery of a "Pit-bull" type front stand
Unfortunately I've never used one so can you experienced guys tell me of any issues I need to be careful of when raising/lowering?

Cheers

Paul

01 fjr

uk
I use mine all the time on my R1 in conjunction with the rear stand. Haven't used it on the FJR yet, but I would think there might not be enough space before you lever it off of the center stand from rear tire hitting as the front wheel goes up. Might be wrong here though. Just make sure one pin is underneath and one behind each fork leg and lift slowly. Pretty easy after you do it a few times. Like I said, just be careful you don't lever it off the center stand. If the rear does interfer, maybe a piece of 1 inch wood under the center stand might do the trick.

 
Thanks for your thoughts on using the front stand

It must be do-able as I've seen a photo from Warchild using the Pit-Bull with wheel off

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 
Top