WTB 2005, found one.

[infrared]

There is a chance for me to buy a 2005 with ~25k miles on the odometer. Since it is Gen1, I am concerned about the notorious Tick. From what I find in the archives, this mileage is still within limits, for a Tick to start on this bike. If Yamaha repaired the bike prior to 2006, then the same faulty valve guides which caused the Tick were used to repair the problem (a new Part Number valve guide was used after 2006, by the posts that I found). The seller (second owner) says the engine was never repaired, so this may be a bike that never got the Tick (at least, not yet).

If there is no Tick heard when the bike is started, how long do I need to run the bike, to be sure there is really no Tick, at this time?

If anybody has recorded the Tick, a link to that audio file would help me to evaluate this bike.

The cost to the owner to repair a Ticking engine would be at least US$3000 so this issue is a serious consideration to me.

Thanks.

 

[FJRMGM]

it wasn't faulty guides - it was the guide seals that were updated, too tight so not enough lube to the stem and it eroded the guide.

My '05 started ticking at 13k miles and was fixed in early '05 at 19k miles and is running STRONG at 96k miles.

It was best heard when the engine was warmed up and when the bike was in 2nd or 3rd gear under light load or deceleration at about 3-5k rpm. I could hear it if I rode without helmet or ear plugs. I could not hear the clacking at engine start as well as I could when it was warmed up and in 2nd or 3rd. By the time it was repaired it was really noisy.

There were not as many that had the problem as many would have you believe. Of all the 03-05's I was around in Houston, which was several because there were at least ten within a twenty mile radius of me, I only heard of one other, an '04 that ticked.

So there is a greater chance this one does NOT have the issue than does. Record the engine and post it and several of us can probably tell you if it sounds like it has an issue.

 

[Chiefblueman]

Here ya go https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/18163-fjrf001-new-ticking-sound-files/

 

[infrared]

FJRMGM,

Thanks, that's good to know. I'm hoping for the best, and tomorrow evening, I will meet the seller and look at the bike.

Chiefblueman,

Man, I could not find any sound files for the Tick that had good links, but those three all work just fine. I appreciate your help. The MP3 and raw.wav are the clearest in sound, with my gear. Computer speakers are fairly lame, on average, so I set all the volumes to minimum and plugged in a decent set of Phillips ear-buds. I turned up the volumes until the sound was at a comfortable level, and it was like I was right there, next to the bike. Now I'm confident that I can identify the Tick, where before I would have been kinda guessing. Hard to believe that Yamaha was having trouble saying there was a problem, there. Thanks again, for those sound files.

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[Chiefblueman]

My pleasure! Hope you find a good 'un. I reaally love my superior Gen 1 O

 

[FJRMGM]

Good luck, you may get a nice (superior) low mileage bike!

Oh, and on my bike, the sound was easier to hear on the RIGHT side of the bike than on the left.

you should really only hear the whine of the gears when it is running and not much else and no clacking like two spoons clacking together.

 

[garyahouse]

My 05's got just under 32k on it. For what it's worth, it runs just like the first day I bought it when it had 3800 miles on the clock. Amazing machine and worth every dime of the 6500 I pd for it 3 years ago. Great part about your choice is that it's gonna hold it's value very well. Ya might wanna consider some Baker air wings to ease the heat coming off the Gen 1 lower fairing. Mine make a huge difference.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[infrared]

An update:

Went to see the bike, and it is like new. On the top rear of one side bag, there is a small scratch in the blue paint. It goes down into the white layer, but this is from hangar-flak; no way this scratch came from a drop or tip-over. This FJR has 25k miles on the clock, excellent maintenance records, and no malfunctions (past or present). This is the non-ABS model. It comes with a throttle-lock, and a proximity alarm installed. Tires are Michelin PR2s, but may be finished by next season. The second owner says all oils are full-synthetic. The engine just purrs, both at start-up and after a short ride.

This blue FJR is titled as a 2005, but the chassis data plate shows 08/04 in large print. Should this be a concern?

The cost to me would be US$6k, and probably US$500 more for DMV taxes & title. Insurance will bump up ~US$100 besides.

I don't pretend to know enough or earn enough to risk a mistake, here. All help is welcome.

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[Ignacio]

This blue FJR is titled as a 2005, but the chassis data plate shows 08/04 in large print. Should this be a concern? The cost to me would be US$6k, and probably US$500 more for DMV taxes & title. Insurance will bump up ~US$100 besides.

That's totally consistent with it being an '05. Remember that '05s were sold actually for two years to normalize U.S. market with the world one '04 and '05....the most FJRs were made of these models.

However, $6K seems high to me. I bought a 2nd used '05 non ABS with 20K 2 or 3 years ago for $5800 with a few add-ons. I'd imagine the value is more like $4500-$5000...but would look at kbb.com to be sure.

The 25K mark you mentioned is the ideal mileage in my opinion for used '03-'05 bikes. This range is past usual development of the minority of ticker,s but still have many trouble-free miles left....as long as it hasn't sat being unused too long.

 

[garyahouse]

Non ABS would be a deal breaker for me. I will never own a non-ABS bike again, and I've got the scars to back up that remark. But that's just me.

You said 6k. Most on the forum would think the price is a little too high. Here's my thoughts:

Excellent maintenance records: worth 500 to 1k to me. One important question: valves been checked yet? It's about due. That can be $$$. Bike's actual worth, maybe 5200-5500. I'm guessing it has very few farkles. However, add to that the value of being able to trust the seller, I think 6k may be in the ballpark. That one thing is worth something. The question is, is it worth something to you? If he'd come down to 5500, I'd say take it.

Keep in mind that ticking issue probably would have shown up by now... if it were indeed a "ticker." It's been a non-issue on my bike... just like most other 05's. Tickers are rare. So how bad do ya want THIS particular bike? How good to you feel about the integrity of the owner and the condition about the bike? Have ya shopped around? Willing to do a fly and ride? There's other deals, better deals... out there, believe me. Not trying to talk you out of anything, but just sayin...

LIke for example, this one: https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2008-Yamaha-Fjr1300-A-110850007

Gary

 

[FJRMGM]

agree with all of the above comments.

Tell him you have $5700 cash burning a hole in your pocket and you want to buy his bike TODAY , that you don't have to go home and get permission from momma or the bank or anyone else and that you are ready to ride it home TODAY.

Just be ready to go when he jumps on it. Good luck.

 

[infrared]

Non ABS would be a deal breaker for me. I will never own a non-ABS bike again, and I've got the scars to back up that remark. But that's just me.
You said 6k. Most on the forum would think the price is a little too high. Here's my thoughts:

Excellent maintenance records: worth 500 to 1k to me. One important question: valves been checked yet? It's about due. That can be $$$. Bike's actual worth, maybe 5200-5500. I'm guessing it has very few farkles. However, add to that the value of being able to trust the seller, I think 6k may be in the ballpark. That one thing is worth something. The question is, is it worth something to you? If he'd come down to 5500, I'd say take it.

Keep in mind that ticking issue probably would have shown up by now... if it were indeed a "ticker." It's been a non-issue on my bike... just like most other 05's. Tickers are rare. So how bad do ya want THIS particular bike? How good to you feel about the integrity of the owner and the condition about the bike? Have ya shopped around? Willing to do a fly and ride? There's other deals, better deals... out there, believe me. Not trying to talk you out of anything, but just sayin...

LIke for example, this one: https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2008-Yamaha-Fjr1300-A-110850007

Gary

Gary,
Man, I like your take on this. I'd like to hear more, if you have time.

I have no appreciation for ABS on a bike. Never rode with it, but I'm game. How do I get the most benefit from ABS? Will it "pulse" like car ABS brakes? Can the ABS kick in when braking while turning? Do I want it to? Not like I plan to brake hard in a turn, but the world has a quirky way of disagreeing with what I expect, at times.

I am not sure about the valves, but that is good to know, and I will check that out. The only farkles I know about are the alarm system and throttle lock. I will probably remove the throttle lock anyway. I am a great believer in synthetic oil, and this guy was religious about changing oil. The first owner was ~70 years old (not too unusual in Utah), so I probably won't find a bike that was treated better anywhere. I agree about the records and the integrity of the seller, being worth good money. I think the guy is a straight shooter. You too, for that matter.

How bad do I want it? Well, this business is not an unreasoning blind rush, here. First I'd have to sell my FJ1100N, which otherwise will cost me maybe $700~1100 in upgrades, as various things are getting old. It's an unrefined beast, compared to the FJR, but I never had a better machine under me. This FJR is BLUE, and I'd prefer red, silver, or black, given any choices at all. Now I'm not rich, and even $5500 is a stretch for me. The Ohio bike is more than I would spend, and 1700 miles away, although black is fine by me. A fly and drive to Denver (500 miles) might be realistic, but that bike better fit me very well, if I did that.

I have done some shopping, around here. Unfortunately, Utah is a Right to Work (for less) state, so everybody here is either scraping along on minimum wage, or a rich kid. Usually, only the rich kids buy the FJRs, not regular people here, and rich kids do not understand why you don't have the full asking price in hand.

We have hard, snowy winters here, so as the riding season ends, maybe a better deal will appear before winter. As for condition, this 2005 is about the best my money can buy, for now. Maybe I need to hear more about ABS first, before I jump on this deal. As I said elsewhere, I really can't afford to make a purchase this large, and then find out it was a mistake.

Thanks to all who are helping, here. I appreciate the advice.



Cheers,

Infrared

 

[ionbeam]

Man, I like your take on this. I'd like to hear more, if you have time.
I have no appreciation for ABS on a bike. Never rode with it, but I'm game. How do I get the most benefit from ABS? Will it "pulse" like car ABS brakes? Can the ABS kick in when braking while turning? Do I want it to? Not like I plan to brake hard in a turn, but the world has a quirky way of disagreeing with what I expect, at times...

Here are a few little ABS reads, this should help you get started. I'm in the ABS be good camp and would seek it out on any new bike purchase.

Fundamentals

About

Saved my bacon

ABS does add a little complexity you will only notice when changing wheels -- 1 sensor each. ABS does add another thing that can go wrong. One emergency stop on wet or sandy roads -- all the add complexity no longer matters, it takes just one use to make it one of the most valuable things you have ever purchased.

 

[garyahouse]

--copied from my response to a pm I received from infrared:

Infra-

You coulda put all this up on the regular forum, it woulda been good for the other fellas to see all this discourse. No biggie to me either way, but conversations like this are what make the forum what it is. Consider posting it all up w/copy and paste???

Anti lock:

My emergency skills are typical of too many riders: limited. I don't practice my panic stops by standing the bike on its nose in some parking lot every week, I don't race and never have. Out on the road, I face many obstacles and often times I'm busy daydreaming about something else when emergencies arise. But then again don't we all? I locked 'em up on a 91 GSX1100G Suzuki in the spring of 2001 on a dry sunny day. Cost me some hospital time from nasty road rash. Problem? No anti-lock brakes, and older (not so soft) front tire, and trying to turn and hit the front brake at the same time. Lack of experience? Yup. Fine. I've only been riding for 45 years. We could discuss that forever. I made up my mind that day: never again.

You asked: "...the most benefit from ABS." How? just grab them things and squeeze like you don't know any better. They take care of the rest. Doesn't matter if it's gravel in a turn, wet pavement in an emergency stop, or flying through a grassy ditch inches from the guard rail: they just plain WORK. Guess how I know that?

"...do they pulse?" Yup. Just like a car. I like that. I know they're doing their thing. It's kinda confidence inspiring. "...kick in while braking/turning?" Yup again. Whenever they're needed, they do their job. Yammie's built a great set up, and it WILL save your butt.

Feeling sorry for the seller: I appreciate your spirit here, but the seller's asking too much. I bought mine for 6500 with an additional Corbin seat, a touring windshield, and 3800 original miles... 3 years ago when the bike was only 5 years old. You're looking at an 8 year old machine, 2 months from being 9 with a LOT more miles and maybe facing a 400 dollar valve check due at 26k. If that check's been done, great. But even so, you'll find plenty of guys asking that price, but not selling them for that much. Get my drift? Any way, my bike had a couple scratches from a tip over, but minor. FJR's: you wouldn't believe the number of great deals around. If you want a Gen II, keep looking. Another will pop up within 2 weeks, you can bet on it. Keep in mind that the gen 1 generates some serious heat: a problem in the summer. Gen II's don't. Anti lock is standard on all Gen II's. Check the bin'O'facts on this forum for the differences.

The bike you're looking at? Explain to the man you're struggling w/ the price. Show him a copy of better deals on the net, say 3 or 4. Describe the fly and ride idea. He'll see that he's overpriced. Consider this. If he doesn't take YOUR 5500, he'll walk away and wait. And wait. In the process he'll be wondering if he made the right decision. Then finally another guy will come along and make the same offer (or less) in September. With the cold winds starting to blow, he'll be happy to sell it to someone else if he sells it at all.

Think about it.

Doesn't it go just like that so often?

Whether yer buyin' or sellin' ya can always score a better deal if yer willin' to wait and wait. And ya will always spend more for something if you're not.

Gary

 

[infrared]

Man, I like your take on this. I'd like to hear more, if you have time.I have no appreciation for ABS on a bike. Never rode with it, but I'm game. How do I get the most benefit from ABS? Will it "pulse" like car ABS brakes? Can the ABS kick in when braking while turning? Do I want it to? Not like I plan to brake hard in a turn, but the world has a quirky way of disagreeing with what I expect, at times...

Here are a few little ABS reads, this should help you get started. I'm in the ABS be good camp and would seek it out on any new bike purchase.

Fundamentals

About

Saved my bacon

ABS does add a little complexity you will only notice when changing wheels -- 1 sensor each. ABS does add another thing that can go wrong. One emergency stop on wet or sandy roads -- all the add complexity no longer matters, it takes just one use to make it one of the most valuable things you have ever purchased.

Ionbeam,

Thanks, now ya done it . . . Suddenly I am wanting something that I never even considered before.

I do practice hard stops in parking lots, but those links say I can probably do better with ABS, at least when I absolutely need it in the real world. Man, this buying business is getting serious, here. They say money talks, but lately, all mine says is Goodbye.

Garyahouse,

I'd like to hear more about the heat issue, with the Gen1s. Where does the heat exit the fairings, and what (besides Baker Air Wings) can be done about it?

Thanks all,

Infrared

 

[RadioHowie]

infrared,

Much of what Gary has written is 100% on-the-money. But Gary is also one of those crazy guys who put a car tire on his motorcycle...so how much stock can you take from a lunatic??

As far as heat goes, there are a whole bunch of weak-sisters on the forum who have cried like whipped 5 year olds over how the heat on a Gen I is akin to summer in hell during a drought. I've got an '04...same as the '05 you're looking at, just in a much prettier color, so I have a knowledge of Gen I heat, and you know what? There's a 1300cc motor between your legs...there is heat. Big friggin' deal...you get wet when it rains, too. And an occasional bumblebee or dragonfly between your front teeth can spoil a ride, but it's motorcycling, right?

Good luck on your decision and future purchase.

'Howie

 

[Chiefblueman]

Infrared -

I have an '05 in the best color ever. There is heat, no doubt. I've ridden a '12 and '06. They are not free of heat in 90* + temps. Search for heat blanket and cromeit mod.

Google search works best: subject site:fjrforum.com.

I used some insulation under the tank and seat, some weatherstripping to seal between frame and fairing, a few pieces of foam and a small piece of aluminum and a couple hours. It works. Yep, sitting in traffic at Sturgis in 90* temps there is some heat. Wahh! As soon as you start rolling it dissapates to a tolerable level. Highway speeds is all good. If you're gonna wear shorts, wifebeater, dorag and flipflops I can't help ya.

Small price to pay to own and ride a most awesome Gen1!

 

[FJRMGM]

Infrared -I have an '05 in the best color ever. There is heat, no doubt. I've ridden a '12 and '06. They are not free of heat in 90* + temps. Search for heat blanket and cromeit mod.

Google search works best: subject site:fjrforum.com.

I used some insulation under the tank and seat, some weatherstripping to seal between frame and fairing, a few pieces of foam and a small piece of aluminum and a couple hours. It works. Yep, sitting in traffic at Sturgis in 90* temps there is some heat. Wahh! As soon as you start rolling it dissapates to a tolerable level. Highway speeds is all good. If you're gonna wear shorts, wifebeater, dorag and flipflops I can't help ya.

Small price to pay to own and ride a most awesome Gen1!

+1 to what he said - makes a LOT of difference when one does the heat mods.

 

[infrared]

Infrared -I have an '05 in the best color ever. There is heat, no doubt. I've ridden a '12 and '06. They are not free of heat in 90* + temps. Search for heat blanket and cromeit mod.

Google search works best: subject site:fjrforum.com.

I used some insulation under the tank and seat, some weatherstripping to seal between frame and fairing, a few pieces of foam and a small piece of aluminum and a couple hours. It works.

+1 to what he said - makes a LOT of difference when one does the heat mods.

Chiefblueman,

FJRMGM,

That does sound good. I figured if heat was a problem, there would be good answers for it here. I just needed the right words, to do the search. Hey, my old FJ is air-cooled, and the vents behind the cylinders will roast you on a hot day. Maybe I can use this information on my FJ, as well. I swear, my gas tank gets hot enough to worry a guy, after a long run.

Thanks,

Infrared